Installing a Poly Choke

[Bigl]

Hello,

I'd like to install a Poly Choke on a single shot shotgun.  I know that the best way is to silver solder to the barrel after cutting past the full choke it has already.  I really don't want to heat up the barrel and ruin the camo finish that I put on the barrel.  Do you think that JB Weld would be strong enough to hold the Poly Choke on???  I've used JB Weld on alot of different applications and it is super strong stuff.  I called the company that makes JB Weld and asked them about it's holding ability.  They told me that it will withstand 3200 psi.  I don't know if that would apply to this type of application?

The part that goes inside the shotgun muzzle that the Poly Choke screws onto is very thin metal but purhaps it could be drilled and pinned on 2 sides of the barrel plus apply JB Weld?

Thanks,
Bigl

[longgun]

If the poly choke fit is very close to the size of the barrel you probably can get good results from the epoxy.   There are some top notch gunsmiths who are glue in 22 barrels with locktite ( no threads nor pins ).  I would suspect that the force of the shot and wad coming out of the barrel would be nowhere near the 3200 psi pressure that the manufacturer has stated, since the choke is only constricting the pattern.  I certainly would give it a try,  clean both parts thourghly with alcohol and get a good even coat.  Put mold release  ( I use johnson paste wax) on every thing that you don't want stuck together.  Makes for easy clean up......  Don

[gunnut69]

You needn't use silver solder but I doubt epoxy will hold..  Most will turn loose at a couple hundred degrees and 3200 PSI is not all that much.. A wad loaded with an ounce of lead slamming into the constriction at the end of the barrel should easily generate that much pressure and then there's the shock and the heat???  There are adapters available(used to be anyway) that screwed to the end of the barrel(nothing goes on the inside if the barrel on the adaptor).  Or simply have a screw on adaptor made.  The adaptor screws to the barrel and the shoke is soldered to the adaptor..  Should eliminate your heat problems all together!

[Bigl]

Hello gunnut69,
 I may have to scrap the idea.  The main objective was to install the poly choke myself.  Since I'm not set up with the equipment it takes to thread the barrel for the adaptor that you mentioned( inside or outside ), the cost to have it done buy a capable and skilled person wouldn't be feasible.

Thanks for the reply,
Bigl

[gunnut69]

How did you camo the barrel?  Perhaps a local machinist could do the work.  It's actuall not to difficult.  How much heat can the camo take.  Some low temp soft solders would probably work if the fit were really tight.. Sweating is done by heating the choke not the barrel..  When sweating 2 tightly fitted pieces in a slip fit they are joined with flux in the joint and the outside(choke) is heated until the solder flows.  Capillary action will pull it into the joint and low temp solders flow at a few hundred degrees..  The barrel won't get too hot at all??

[Bigl]

gunnut69,
the camo is just Krylon spray paint for the base coat (flat green) and the other paint is 3 colors of hobbie craft paint. Then  3 coats of clear sealer.  Any flame or high heat would probably burn or flake the paint.  

I may try to sweat the pieces together, or I still might try the JB Weld application.  Another cold weld I've though about is using permanent Loctite.  I have used this type of Loctite to set bearings on a shaft and haven't had one get loose or move off  position.

Bigl

[gunnut69]

I'd bet the StudLocker works better than the epoxy..  Epoxy's are fairly heat sensitive...  Low temp soft solder with a nice tight fit between the parts would hold even better..  Good luck!!!