Author Topic: Best Finish (Read 1479 times)

HOGSLAYER · « **on:** September 07, 2004, 03:26:40 PM »

Ok Guys and Gals

What does every one consider the best finish for a stock on the Encore made out of walnut?

?

I normaly use tung oil but when I opened the can tonight it had hardened(some one and it might even have been me) had not put the cap on tight enough. So.... I have to get some more or if you convince me I might try another method.

Let me know what ya think

Joe

bgjohn · « **Reply #1 on:** September 07, 2004, 03:49:16 PM »

I use Formsbys tung oil finish.
JM

HOGSLAYER · « **Reply #2 on:** September 08, 2004, 11:47:42 AM »

That is what I have been using for a while I think I will stick with it. It sure is easy to touch up or even to add another coat when it gets dull.

Joe

KYODE · « **Reply #3 on:** September 08, 2004, 11:53:59 AM »

only thing i've used is tru-oil

Mirage · « **Reply #4 on:** September 08, 2004, 01:33:44 PM »

Hi guys,

I have 2 custom wood projects that I finished from Bullberry, (1) high grade black walnut encore pistol set (butt+forearm) and 91) high grade paradox rifle stock set for encore also.

I used Tru-oil on the pistol set. I found it to be very easy to work with and it brings out the grain and color magnificently in the wood. It appears to be a reasonably tough finish but I have yet to "field test" it.

The rifle set i used Custom Pro-finish by Chem-Pak basis article and endorsement from local gunsmith. It is a blend of Tung, urethane and "other" ingredients. It is awesome to work with and also creates a great finish that really brings out wood color / grain. Again, the finish is not "field" tested.

I will draw a concluson @ end of season when the pieces have been knocked around. At this point I would have to go with the Chem-Pak product. It is particularly good @ sealing wood.

Mirage

Javelina · « **Reply #5 on:** September 08, 2004, 02:54:53 PM »

Spray Tru-Oil. . .REAL easy to repair if you need to and all you need is a little 0000 steel wool to get 'er cleaned up between coats. I generally just use 2-3 coats on the BB and VV laminates I have (maybe my VV stuff is now a collectable?). You can use MinWax stain under Tru-Oil if you need/want to and it still works and looks great. This method is pretty hard to screw up - that's why I use it? :grin:

Javelina

Lawful Larry · « **Reply #6 on:** September 09, 2004, 04:56:09 AM »

Quote from: Mirage

Hi guys,

I have 2 custom wood projects that I finished from Bullberry, (1) high grade black walnut encore pistol set (butt+forearm) and 91) high grade paradox rifle stock set for encore also.

I used Tru-oil on the pistol set. I found it to be very easy to work with and it brings out the grain and color magnificently in the wood. It appears to be a reasonably tough finish but I have yet to "field test" it.

The rifle set i used Custom Pro-finish by Chem-Pak basis article and endorsement from local gunsmith. It is a blend of Tung, urethane and "other" ingredients. It is awesome to work with and also creates a great finish that really brings out wood color / grain. Again, the finish is not "field" tested.

I will draw a concluson @ end of season when the pieces have been knocked around. At this point I would have to go with the Chem-Pak product. It is particularly good @ sealing wood.

Mirage

Hey Mirage,
How many coats did you put on of the Custom Pro-finish? What did you use between finishes if more then one, 0000? I have never heard of this product. Where did you get it. I have a buttstock and forend coming from Georgia Jim, unfinished and am looking for some form of oil finish. I don't like any gloss, slippery finish so oil is the way for me to go. I always thought the oil finish was a lot easier to maintain.

Thanks!

Mirage · « **Reply #7 on:** September 09, 2004, 01:52:26 PM »

Lawful Larry,

Steps to finishing:
1. sanded upto 400 grit.
2. raised the grain and whiskered the wood (took 3 times).
3. applied 2 sealing coats. (cut 75%/ 30%`mineral spirits).
4. took 4 sessions to wet sand the oil to "seal the pores", this is a critical step.
5. used 000 wool for between stages thus far.
6. applied top coats (10), did 1x/day. used 0000 wool betwen coats. you don't probably need 10 coats if you have sealed the pores properly.
7. took down gloss with birchwood casey stock conditione (waited 5 days for finish to completely dry / cure.8.
8. applied johnsons paste wax for final finish.

Got the product @ a local gun store. I don't have any web sitesto offer but have seen them, google search will hit the mnufacturer+dealers. Search under chem -pak, gub sav'r, custom pro oil etc. It comes in an 8 oz yellow can, app. $10 retail. It really is great to work with. was developed by a group of 4 gunsmiths that wanted the best attributes of various oil finishes.

Hope this helps,
mirage

DropTheHammer · « **Reply #8 on:** September 10, 2004, 12:59:56 AM »

Thanks for the great info!

I am getting ready to order a custom laminated grip / forend for my G2 from Ole' Georgia Jim, but was feeling a little uneasy about doing the finish work myself. (they come unfinished)

I've refinished a stock awhile ago on an old Savage .222 I inherited from my grandfather. It was turning orange, so I stripped it and refinished with linseed oil. I think I improved its looks as much as I could for an ugly piece of wood.

If'n I'm gonna drop some dough on the laminates, I want to be sure I can make'm look pretty without screwing them up.

I like the sounds of the Chem-Pak deal above. Would like to have a urethane high gloss type finish when I'm done.

Lawful Larry · « **Reply #9 on:** September 10, 2004, 03:18:17 AM »

Hey Mirage,
I really appreciate you taking the time togive me the steps needed to finish my grips. It looks like I got my work cut out for me. Your proceedure looks like it will give me a work of art and one that will last for some time. :wink:

Thanks again,
LL

Mirage · « **Reply #10 on:** September 10, 2004, 01:41:37 PM »

No problem Lawful Larry.

It has been quite a learning experience / act of "love" finishing good wood. My Wife has lamented many nights when I ignored her to "work the wood". The results are well worth it to take your time and finish yourself.

Advice:
1. be patient and take your time.

2. Have good light to work with when sanding / applying oil, easy to miss imperfections, oil coverage.

3. be aware of incidental contact with wood when working with that would smear finish / scratch wood.

4. take your time to seal pores / fill grain. If not you ill regret when the final coats are applied, you will not have that glass like depth in finish.

5. have a good system to hang the piece to dry.

6. I have suspended a wastebasket from ceiling that acts as a drying chamber to isolate from dust / hair. I hang the piece up, inside the container so airbornes will not settle onto it. For final 2 coats I seal the bottom with plastic bags to truly eliminate dust. These steps help minimize the wooling between coats since surface imperfections have been minimized. Nothing worse then seeing hairs stuck to finish the next day.

DropTheHammer · « **Reply #11 on:** October 05, 2004, 04:09:00 AM »

I just received my laminate G2 grip/forearm set from GA Jim and also am looking for a finishing solution....

A couple more questions...

Where to get Formsby's tung oil?

As far as a poly finish, it seems more folks tend toward the satin vs gloss... is this b/c the gloss will not "wear" as well?

My G2 is primarily a hunting gun so an aesthetic finish that is durable/ wears well is preferable.

How did the Chem-Pak product hold up?

As far as wet sanding the oil finish to seal the wood and whiskering the wood, can you explain these processes and their purpose in a little more detail? Are there any special considerations when dealing with laminates in these processes?

Mirage · « **Reply #12 on:** October 07, 2004, 02:01:14 PM »

I'm not quite sure about how laminates differ from homogenous wood but believe principles might still apply.

Whiskering. By product of sanding impacts wood particles down into the poors below the surface of the wood. The wood feels extremely smooth after sanding. When you apply any type of liquid, the wood fiber / wood swells somewhat, the impacted danding fibers will "stand up" above the surface of the wood (hence whisker analogy). This will create a very rough surface that will make it very difficult to get a smooth finish when applying oil, you will not have that glass like finish and depth.

Method. 1. use distilled water, wet a clean rag. lightly and quickly rub the surface of the wood with the wet rag. immediately use a hair dryer and rapidly go over the wood, it will dry befor you eyes. This process should only take 1 minute or so. The "whiskers" will pop up and will be dramitically visible, rough to the touch. use 3/0 steel wool and smooth the wood 9actually cuts whiskers back to level of wood.

Repeat several times until you can't raise any more.

Filling in the pores.

After 1,2 sealing coats the wood will look terrible with many "pits" and gaping pores. These need to be filled. Their are two basic methods, the wet sanding is the preffered.

method: Start with 320 wet/dry paper. apply oil of choice to paper and wood, do a section at a time, don't get ahead, don't want oil soaking in, running etc. Sand as you would normally working the oil in. After several seconds the oil will start to turn to a slurry as the grit cuts into the wood and releases wood particles. you may have to refreshen the paper if it gets gummy too quick . Notice the "brown" oil laden with sanding particles. The wood surfcae will appear coated and smudged with this "slurry". Use a clean lint free rag and lightly wipe against the grain 9opposite of sanding). This will remove the excess slurry and level the pores with the slurry. let dry overnight, 2 days etc. use 3/0 steel wool to lightly sand down the wood, careful not to be too agressive and remove the filled pores. repeat this several time until you do not see visible open pores. At this point you will be amazed at the underlying potential of the wood starting to shape up.

Start applying your "top coats"

Good luck
Mirage

DropTheHammer · « **Reply #13 on:** October 07, 2004, 02:24:58 PM »

many thanks for the lesson!

At what point of the sanding process do you do the whispering? I'm assuming this is done when you have finished the fine sanding.

The GJ grips come sanded to 80 or 100 grit. As I understand I need to continue sanding and work my way to 400 grit.... My take is that I need to whisker when I am satisfied with the 400 grit sanding. (

?)

Mirage · « **Reply #14 on:** October 08, 2004, 02:36:41 PM »

CORRECT

1. work your way upto 400 grit.

2. after satisfied with sanding, begin the "whiskering".

mirage

HHI-7420 · « **Reply #15 on:** October 10, 2004, 03:38:28 PM »

You have it down pretty well Mirage-good going. The whiskers that pop up when wetted are actually the vessels that transport fluids within the tree. I use denatured alcohol with warm water(dries real quick). No need to use a hairdryer unless you flood the wood. After #400 I rub in lemon oil with #1000 wet/dry, then just the oil as many times as you want(I don't seal oil finishes-my preference only). Smooth as a babys butt and no glare. Just finished one in cocabola(?)- whoo boy! Pat

Mirage · « **Reply #16 on:** October 13, 2004, 01:13:24 PM »

Interesting variations!

The hair dryer approach seems leagues above the"traditional" method of heating the damp wood above a stove top! (risky).

DropTheHammer · « **Reply #17 on:** November 16, 2004, 05:06:56 AM »

I'm back on the G2 Grip project. I have completed the sanding to 400 process.

Decided to go with the Pro Custom Tung/Poly finish. Put the sealing coats on and the first couple of uncut coats. Next step is to keep putting uncut coats on until 10-15 coats are on.

Question is, what should I be using to apply these coats? I am currently using a cotton rag, but sometimes I see a fiber or two in the finish? Should I use a brush or something other?

Question 2 is: the pro custom finish directions tell me to use #0000 Steel wool or lightly wet sand with 400 grit between coats while building up the 10-15 coats. Which of these works the best. When wet sanding, do I use water at this stage?

Thanks for the help

Mirage · « **Reply #18 on:** November 16, 2004, 01:10:50 PM »

1. Did you fill the grain wet sanding with the oil?

2. I just use my fingers to apply the oil. You get a nice feel tracing the wood and evenly applying the oil. need to find the right blend of number of smoothing strokes vs. getting too tacky, be relatively quick, the oil needs to smooth out / spread to evenly cover the presence of your fingers tracing through.

3. i always used 0000 wool. Just lightly wool enough to remove any surface dust / hair etc. and rough up the surface for the next coat.

Mirage.

DropTheHammer · « **Reply #19 on:** November 16, 2004, 03:13:09 PM »

THe pro custom finish directions do not have you wet sand with oil to fill the graing until 10-15 coats have been applied.

Mirage · « **Reply #20 on:** November 18, 2004, 01:56:05 PM »

Don't quite understand that, runs contrary to most other experts. The alterbative to wet sanding is to apply many coats of oil and completely wool down to the wood except for the residual amount that is left in the pores. You will end up with many "glistening pores" as they begin filling, eventually "spilling out" where they level with the xxxx coat. The wet sand method is quicker.

Mirage.

DropTheHammer · « **Reply #21 on:** November 18, 2004, 05:49:53 PM »

DropTheHammer · « **Reply #22 on:** November 23, 2004, 12:37:44 AM »

Still working the wood, have 7 coats on. 4 or 5 more before wet sanding and finish coats.

I let #7 dry 24 hours and installed, plan to hunt with them for a couple of days, then finish the wood.

The grips really change the handling of the G2 in a good way!