Author Topic: Cleaning Model 70 bolt (Read 1413 times)

alsatian · « **on:** November 30, 2004, 05:14:22 AM »

I have never disassembled my Winchester Model 70 Classic Featherweight bolt to clean it. I bought the rifle September 2003 and have now used two deer hunting seasons and a pronghorn antelope hunt. It seems I ought to take the bolt apart and clean and oil it.

The manual describes unscrewing the firing pin assembly from the bolt sleeve but recommends against further disassembly. I have no reason to believe my rifle has received worse than average wear and tear (probably considerably better than average, as I clean the rifle well after every use, wiping the bolt surfaces and receiver bolt engagement surfaces with a lightly oiled cloth, and take care in the field not to lay the rifle in the dirt, etc.).

Should I disassemble the firing pin assembly further to clean and lightly oil the internals, such as the firing pin spring and the body of the firing pin which I assume (remember I have never performed even the simple disassembly of the bolt described in the manual) are inside the firing pin assembly? Wouldn't I need to disassemble the firing pin assembly to degrease it if I were going to be hunting in very cold weather, such as coyotes in Minnesota in January? If I should, what is the disassembly procedure and why does Winchester advise against this?

gunnut69 · « **Reply #1 on:** November 30, 2004, 07:07:12 AM »

The reason Winchester reccommends against further disassembly is that unless there is parts breakage there is no need and the striker assembly is under strong spring tension. It really should be taken down with the tools designed to controlled that tension to avoid injury. The interior of the bolt and the entire striker assembly is easily cleaned after it's removal from the bolt. Just spray it off with a commercially available carb cleaner or wash in a suitable solvent. It should be lightly lubed to prevent corrosion before reassembly. If hunting in extremely cold weather lube with a suitable dry lube such as graphite, moly, or one of the spray on coatings which are allowed to dry before reassembly. Never use WD40 on any fine mechanism as it dries to a varnish like consistancy that is guaranteed to gum the works,....likewise avoid such as 3-In-One.. A very good oil is synthetic ATF(automatic transmission fluid). It has very little temurature sensitivity, won't gum and is a very good light lunricating oil..

Dave in WV · « **Reply #2 on:** November 30, 2004, 01:45:45 PM »

I removed my firing pin assembly, cleaned it with carb cleaner, and sprayed it with Remington DryLube.

gunnut69 · « **Reply #3 on:** November 30, 2004, 08:44:44 PM »

Sounds like a good job to me! Hope we helped some...

alsatian · « **Reply #4 on:** December 01, 2004, 03:02:46 AM »

Thanks for the information. Does the Remington Dry-lube provide protection against corrosion such as rust? Did you use the Dry-lube as a cold weather lubricant and then later remove the dry-lube and re-lube with some other corrosion preventive lubricant?

Dave in WV · « **Reply #5 on:** December 01, 2004, 05:22:24 AM »

The DryLube seems to help with corrosion. I use it year around. It doesn't get thick and retard the firing pin in cold weather. It has teflon in it. I also use it on my Remington 7600 and Ruger MK II M77 stainless rifle. I do use a small amount of synthetic grease on the rear of my bolt locking lugs on my bolt actions.

alsatian · « **Reply #6 on:** December 01, 2004, 09:29:36 AM »

Dave in WV:

What brand of synthetic grease do you recommend? Any specific grade or type designation?

Dave in WV · « **Reply #7 on:** December 01, 2004, 01:42:26 PM »

Shooter's Choice is the brand I use.