Author Topic: Assembling a Rifle (Read 780 times)

Bart Solo · « **on:** December 13, 2004, 03:23:33 AM »

I am sort of a do-it yourself kinda guy. You know the kind that likes to build his own computers or refinish furniture. Stuff like that. Surfing the web I have noticed that it is possible to buy barrelled actions. There are lots of sites that sell after market triggers. It is also possible to buy inletted stocks that only need exterior finish work. I like the looks of some of those stocks better than the standard stocks that come with most rifles. It is also possible for an individual to glass bed an action to improve accuracy.

What would it take for the average guy, with a few hand tools, to "build" his own rifle? Where do I start? Are there forums that talk about assembling a rifle--component selection, frequently asked questions.

victorcharlie · « **Reply #1 on:** December 13, 2004, 03:40:17 AM »

Yes, it is entirely possible for a fellow to build his own rifle, or rather, assemble his own rifle. Glass bedding is one of the first things I learned to do many years ago. I haven't done a bedding job in a long time and that's one of the reasons I bought an inexpensive savage......practice makes perfect. The hardest thing about a bedding job to me is keeping the bedding compound off areas of the stock where I don't want it.

There are videos available that explain the process. Brownells.com for one, and http://www.americangunsmith.com/view.php?id=88

gunnut69 · « **Reply #2 on:** December 13, 2004, 06:04:55 AM »

Of course you can assmble a rifle from parts but the first qestion is why? If you just want the experience then it's a great idea. If your trying to save money its probably not such a great idea. There are a lot of pitfalls, drop in stocks that aren't, etc. The rest is just knowledge..and that can be learned. For instance keeping bedding compound off a finished stocks finish(it will damage ANY finish) is impossible. No matter how careful you are a touch of a finger contaminated with bedding and the finish WILL show it. Fix? Cover the outside of the stock with masking tape. Simple and never fails! I'd advise starting with a commercially availble barreled action such as the CharlesDalys available now. They already have the adjustable triggers, bent bolt and the other metalwork done, so will allow you to learn stockmaking skills first. Perhaps starting with a 95% finished blank would yeild more knowledge and a better finished product. Perhaps even learn the art/skill of checkering wood gunstocks. We'll help if you wish. Just ask your questions! But one warning,, it can become habit forming I'm afraid and will consume a lot of your free time!! .

Bart Solo · « **Reply #3 on:** December 13, 2004, 07:14:42 AM »

As I said, I build my own computers, so I know that it really is cheaper to buy something assembled on an assembly line. While I have never saved any money building my own, I generally end up knowing a lot more about whatever I am building than the average user.

I have looked at the Charles Daly actions and they seem attractive (there is a local dealer down the street) but haven't heard anything about them except that they are commercial mauser actions built in Serbia. I have read the article in field and steam, but haven't heard anything more. I was also considering Howa, any comments on them?

As I said I am at the preliminary stages of this idea. One thought has been to buy an old Ruger 10/22 and restock it. Not much can go wrong and I will learn some of the principles before I move up to center fire.

I appreciate your comments.

Judson · « **Reply #4 on:** December 13, 2004, 12:19:17 PM »

The C.D. barreled actions are ok as a starting point but need a lot of cleaning up to get them smooth and really nice. As for the glass bedding getting on the stock I have tried the masking tape and at times the bedding seeps under the tape. What I have found works better on a finished stock is to use a very heavy coat of paste furniture wax (something like Butchers wax) over the hole stock. I usually use several coats until the stock is cloudy with the dried wax. The liquid glass bedding and the thick paste bedding will not stick to this at all and clean up is easy.
Building your own rifle can be a lot of fun but it is not a money saving project. Go slow, when in doubt ask questions before you do something wrong and mabe dangerous, and do not cut any corners it will show. If you have questions this is a good place to get them answered there are some knowledgeable people on this forum. Have fun!!!

victorcharlie · « **Reply #5 on:** December 13, 2004, 12:48:51 PM »

In the past I've used accuraglas gel from brownells. Has anyone used PC-7 epoxy? Or for that matter any other epoxies? What's the best release agent to use with these type epoxies? Should I continue to stick with accuglas gel instead of hardware store epoxies?

gunnut69 · « **Reply #6 on:** December 13, 2004, 07:53:00 PM »

I've used Devcon and MarineTex but the acraglass seems the easiest to work for me. Also some of the epoxies cure to a brittle state. I prefer something that can take a bit more impact. Also I've tried the wax to avoid finish damage but had problems removing it from checkering patterns. I much prefer the wide masking tape as it leaves fewer joints. I've not had any leakage problems and oft times use paste wax as a release agent on the barreled action and over the top of the tape near the places where the excess epoxy is likely to ooze out.

Bart Solo · « **Reply #7 on:** December 14, 2004, 11:43:14 AM »

Judson

You said "The C.D. barreled actions are ok as a starting point but need a lot of cleaning up to get them smooth and really nice." What needs to be done and do you have experience with them?

Judson · « **Reply #8 on:** December 15, 2004, 01:53:09 PM »

The C.D. actions need a bit of refinement, such as polishing up the rails and at times the feed ramp. Also the trigger is not the best but replacement is easy, I like the Timney or what is really nice is the Kiplinger single set trigger. The bent piece of wire used to retain the floor plate release button should be removed and a set screw installed in its place. (this should be done before bluing) I also like to lap the locking lugs and square the action. Even though there is some work involved for the money it is a nice action to start with. As for getting the wax out of the checkering a soft tooth brush and mineral spirits works great, so does Scotts Liquid Gold. I have also used the masking tape but like the wax better. With things like this it boils down to what works best for you. The release agent I use is from Brownells and is called RAM the directions say to heat the metal but this is not needed for bedding. It goes on like water and gets into all the nooks and crannies like penertrating oil, it is great stuff. Like Gunnut said when it comes to release agent do not be stingy soak everything with at least two coats. One more thing the Ram dries in a minuet or so which is nice.

Wlscott · « **Reply #9 on:** December 16, 2004, 04:52:54 AM »

Quote

Also the trigger is not the best but replacement is easy, I like the Timney or what is really nice is the Kiplinger single set trigger.

Judson, will this trigger work with a Winchester 70 Featherweight? I handled a CZ with a single set trigger and really liked it. Would it be compatable with my safety?

Judson · « **Reply #10 on:** December 17, 2004, 01:03:00 PM »

I think that if you look in the Brownells catalog you will find a Kiplinger single set trigger for the Mod. 70 actions. I know they used to have them for the Winchesters.

Wlscott · « **Reply #11 on:** December 18, 2004, 05:42:12 AM »

I checked. Brownells does offer a Kipplinger single set trigger.......for around $300.00 :eek:

I will probably be going with a Timney. It sure would be neat to have a single set trigger though.

Broken-arrow · « **Reply #12 on:** December 18, 2004, 09:37:44 AM »

Got a question about the CD action. Will any of the 98 mauser stocks fit this action? What about the minimauser action ?

Judson · « **Reply #13 on:** December 18, 2004, 12:09:40 PM »

Stocks inletted for the Mark X or commercial 98 Mausers should fir Cd also offers a mini mauser so I would think those stocks would also work. Best bet would be to check with the manufacture of the stock you are thinking of buying. Usually the stocks inletted for the military action will have the inletting for the trigger guard too long due to the lock screws so watch out here.