Author Topic: Black Plastic Forearm - How to Float It? (Read 960 times)

270Handiman · « **on:** December 05, 2004, 11:08:26 AM »

:evil:
This thing is squeezing my barrel tigher than OJ's glove. Has anyone fixed this? I just don't think the solutions for the wood models will work on the plastic. Can I sand this stuff? Grind it? Help?

quickdtoo · « **Reply #1 on:** December 05, 2004, 11:33:00 AM »

I sanded mine with 80 grit sand paper, it works.

270Handiman · « **Reply #2 on:** December 05, 2004, 11:35:17 AM »

I wasn't sure if it would sand, or just start deforming. How much did you take off?

quickdtoo · « **Reply #3 on:** December 05, 2004, 11:44:38 AM »

Not a lot, just enought to clear.

Paul5388 · « **Reply #4 on:** December 05, 2004, 12:38:50 PM »

On my .357 barrel that was fitted at the factory, I ended up taking a rasp and an air powered die grinder to it. Every barrel is different and they need different amounts taken out. The .357 barrel has the forearm lug welded on off center, so it needed quite a bit off one side and none off of the other side.

270Handiman · « **Reply #5 on:** December 05, 2004, 12:48:00 PM »

If I sand it until it is clear back to the beginning of the rifling, will it matter how tight the forearm screw is tightened? It shouldn't, right?

Thanks for all advice so far.

Paul5388 · « **Reply #6 on:** December 05, 2004, 01:20:04 PM »

It seems like they get tighter the farther back you go. I took material out all the way back and then used 6mm x 8mm steel Volkswagen oil drain plate seals as shims between the lug and the forearm. I think I have three in my .357 and two in my .223. I tighten the screw until it is pretty snug and back off 1/4 turn. I use a regular straight slot screw instead of the Philips screw and end up with it pointing parallel to the barrel.

I also took a flat file and dressed the end of the forearm lug until it was closer to flat than what the factory sent out.

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OK, here's what I think I have found out. The barrel stud is the only thing making contact on my forearm. #1 son got after it today with a die grinder and relieved the material in the forearm to ensure it was free floating. After that we took some Prussian Blue and shot that in the forearm to see what was contacting. There was a very thin line of blue on the barrel stud and that was all! Maybe you can see this good enough to tell what I'm talking about.

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The barrel on the left is the .223 barrel that has had the contact surface cleaned up with a file (the Prussian blue should be visible). The right barrel is the .357 and the contact surface is rounded so there is a very slight ring that is the contact surface. (I guess I had too much zoom for it to be very clear)

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Here is where I have cleaned up the contact surface on the .357 barrel. If you enlarge it you can see Prussian blue all the way around the widened and flattened surface.

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This is both barrels side by side after both have had the surface cleaned up.

Here's the entire thread if you want to read 16 pages of what I did with the .357 Handi.

270Handiman · « **Reply #7 on:** December 05, 2004, 01:27:48 PM »

Well, then 16 pages it'll be. Be back when I'm done. Thanks.

270Handiman · « **Reply #8 on:** December 06, 2004, 05:59:34 AM »

Wow Paul, that was one long thread. It was interesting to see the progression through it all.

Thanks for sharing.

Paul5388 · « **Reply #9 on:** December 06, 2004, 08:43:02 AM »

270,

Sometimes it takes a little time to tinker with these. That .357 Mag barrel was one of the last 20 NEF installed this year and I think the quality of fitting wasn't too good. Most people shouldn't have that many problems.

I do think the forearm tension and where that tension is/or isn't has a lot to do with how well these NEFs shoot. I have even taken a liking to shotgun forearms, just to alleviate some of the tension problems. However, the shotgun forearm needing to be relieved on the right side for the .357 just shows there are some problems that don't have a quick fix. They are fixable, just not as quick as some others.

270Handiman · « **Reply #10 on:** December 06, 2004, 12:49:19 PM »

Well said Paul, I completely agree. My 270 has been a problem child from day one. My first shot is ALWAYS about 1.5" high at 100 yds. After that, its higher and higher and higher. The only way I can get a good group is to wait about 2 hours between each shot. I'm not NEAR that patient! :?

Paul5388 · « **Reply #11 on:** December 06, 2004, 04:36:36 PM »

270,

I suppose you know the barrel channel 0on the synthetic is just that small curved portion at the top edge of the forearm? Many times you can shine a flashlight into the end of the forearm and see the areas that aren't letting light through (where the forearm is touching). Usually it is the area close to the receiver and adjacent to the forearm screw.

The easiest way to handle the situation is to jack the barrel up off of the forearm with shims. The hole in the lug is 1/4" or 6mm and the diameter of the lug is about 5/16" or 8mm. If you set the solid shims on the shiny part of the lug in my pictures that has the Prussian Blue on it, it will raise the barrel and still give a solid support If you use rubber, as in an "O" ring, you will have trouble adjusting the pressure and getting the screw tight. I jack mine up high enough to pass a Dallas phone book between the barrel and the forearm! :eek: Well, maybe not quite that much, but a lot.

After that, take a dollar bill and fold it in half and see if you can get it to pass between the side of the forearm and the barrel. Do both sides. You'll feel the tight spots that need sanding or whatever.

270Handiman · « **Reply #12 on:** December 07, 2004, 04:12:17 AM »

Thanks Paul, going to work on it today after work. I'll let you know how it comes out.