Author Topic: IMPROVING SAVAGE TRIGGER NO ACCU-TRIGGER (Read 1917 times)

tradegun · « **on:** December 03, 2004, 03:17:32 AM »

Fellow shooters I need some help I have a Savage 110 series rifle without Accu-trigger I would like to achieve 3 lb pull and smoother operation. I have never worked on a savage trigger. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

gunnut69 · « **Reply #1 on:** December 03, 2004, 06:59:24 AM »

I have listed below the address to a website with exploded drawings or the 110. The workings of the trigger are fairly simple. The screw in the front of the trigger on the long arm(2 on the diagram) adjusts the pull weight. Screws 16 on the diagram adjust the overtravel. It should of course be followed by testing to be certain the adjustments have not created a dangerous situation.. bounce the butt on the floor, hard, and slam the bolt shut several times. If the striker falls, even once, the setting is dangerous!! Fix it immediately. A dangerous trigger WILL cause problems and they may be fatal! Never take one of these triggers to less than 3 pounds or so.. good luck!!

http://www.urban-armory.com/diagrams/savage11.htm

safetysheriff · « **Reply #2 on:** December 04, 2004, 06:31:57 AM »

www.centerfirecentral.com will give you some info' including the part about SSsssssssaaaaa :shock: ..........SSSSSS :eek: .....their triggers not being hardened all the way through. They cannot be stoned or polished like a Ruger because you'll wear through the surface hardening and then wear out the mechanism....

Ssssssaaaaaa.......you know which rifles I mean!

SS'

gunnut69 · « **Reply #3 on:** December 04, 2004, 06:11:17 PM »

Having a bit of trouble there safetyscheriff?? Many gunparts are casehardened even the internals of a S&W revolver...hardly poor company to be in!! The key is to 'polish' the parts. By that we mean to brighten the finish but not remove appreaciable material.. Only the finest hard Arkansas and ceramic stones should be used... on any surface that receives pressure or wear... Burrs and such may be stoned off if not on a critical surface. The trick is go lightly and not too far. The triggers are adjustable for pull weight and overtravel, the sear engaggement should usually be left as is, so a little 'polishing' is all thats needed..

safetysheriff · « **Reply #4 on:** December 05, 2004, 03:58:21 PM »

gunnut,

my 'warning' is given after reading the text at the website given. i only figure that people who've done more work on a Ssssssssssssaaa.... :eek: SSSSSsssss......... :shock: worked on them more than me ought to be in the know. Just be careful is what I'm saying. If it's true that the parts are of sintered metal, then they'll last a long time if not abused, but the hardening is nothing i'd fool with.

for what it's worth, sintered metal is used for the timing gears in some chain-driven camshafts. so i know it works and can last, but that's not what the guys are saying about those SSSSSsssssss :oops: rifles!

SS'

rodgervich · « **Reply #5 on:** December 05, 2004, 06:44:02 PM »

Tradegun-
You can buy a replacement trigger that works very well, it is made by SharpShooter supply and available from many vendors. It is easy to install and adjust, my friend and I have near identical Savage 12's in 22-250 and we both put these triggers in. He started by trying to adjust the factory trigger to light varmint weight, he got a couple of slam fires and scared the carp out of him so he dropped one of these SharpShooters in and it works great.
Highly recommended over fooling with factory trigger.

gunnut69 · « **Reply #6 on:** December 05, 2004, 09:06:59 PM »

safetysheriff I really do understand.. but to say they can't be polished is wrong, They certainly can be, polished, not stoned.. No angles changed and nearly no material removed.. I don't knoiw if they're sintered but doubt it. They look cast.. but sintering is used by a lot of people these days.
rodgervich- if the rifle slam fired don't blame the rifle, blame the gunsmith. Triggers can be worked on but as I've said before you have to have some knowledge before you go twisting the screws.. The most dangerous thing you can do is to lower the pull weight on a hunting rifle too low.. It's dangerous and eventually it will catch up with you, or someone around you!!

tradegun · « **Reply #7 on:** December 15, 2004, 06:58:35 AM »

THANK YOU ALL FOR THE HELP !!

My first attempt at improving trigger pull on a Savage non accu-trigger
was a success. One observation however on the rifle I adjusted the adjustment screw was in backwards! the trigger spring was in the end with the screw slot and the V notched end was down. I removed the trigger polished the engagement surfaces and reinstalled the screw with the slot down and adjusted with the factory spring. weight of pull = 3 .5 lbs still a little creep but I was not comfortable with adjusting the sear engagement as the rifle is not mine. Question was the screw in incorrectly or is that how Savage installs them to prevent adjustment?

gunnut69 · « **Reply #8 on:** December 15, 2004, 09:11:51 AM »

Perhaps someone had the rifle apart before? I do not know. I usually advise against adjusting the sear engagement unless one is truly knowledgeable, and even then it opens a can of worms.. The spring tension can be lowered to 3 lbs by installing a spring made with lighter wire but cut to the same length. Good job and good luck!

nipprdog · « **Reply #9 on:** December 19, 2004, 09:25:00 AM »

a little late, but heres a good link. I adjusted mine to 3lb simply by turning screw #5.

http://www.varminthunters.com/tech/savage110trigger.html