Author Topic: Laminmated stock finishing - poly vs tung oil (Read 1223 times)

stratocaster · « **on:** January 31, 2003, 02:51:38 AM »

I have finished / re-finished a few stocks over the years mostly using modified tung oil on walnut. Have had very good results. I'm in the processing of putting together a big game hunting rifle with a laminated stock. The stock is new and unfinished. Would the process using tung oil be the same for a laminated stock or should I think about using a poly finish? What would be disadvantage of using poly? Can I even use tung oil on a laminated stock? Thanks!

jhm · « **Reply #1 on:** January 31, 2003, 04:38:28 AM »

stratocaster like you I have done several stocks myself with tung oil and it has to obsorb into the wood, I would think that the glue that is used in the laminate process might cause it not to be obsorbed evenly. I would contack boyd stocks or richards microfit and ask them what they recomend to be sure.

JIM

Ka6otm · « **Reply #2 on:** January 31, 2003, 09:05:05 AM »

Stratocaster,

I recently finished a Fajen laminated stock using Tru-Oil and it came out beautifully.

You might want to give it a try.

Ka6otm

gunnut69 · « **Reply #3 on:** January 31, 2003, 02:20:31 PM »

I've refinished or finished many laminated gunstocks. I normally prefer a truOil finish but lately on laminates I have been using a rub on polyurethane finish.. It is easy to apply(I apply by hand) and produces a great looking finish with very little more trouble than oil.. It is a bit harder to remove from the hands but succumbs to 'Skin-So-Soft' as does the TruOil, just have to cleanup before it hardens completely.. Good luck from the gunnut69

stratocaster · « **Reply #4 on:** February 04, 2003, 08:05:04 AM »

Gunnut,'
Care to share your process of applying the wipe on poly?

gunnut69 · « **Reply #5 on:** February 04, 2003, 09:44:46 AM »

Sorry for the delay, we have the flu here and I'm a long way from par.. I use the same process to apply the poly as I do the TruOil, that is a few drops on the stock and rub in with the hand. Of course the wood must be completely dry, free of all dust and polished smooth with 00 steel wool. I warm the stock a bit with a heat gun before starting and work a bit faster with poly as it 'tacks' a bit quicker than does the oil.. Use a bit more early in the process(1st & 2nd coats) and only the amount needed to allow the stock to be coated in subsequent coats. I work in areas i.e. the off side of the buttstock, on side of the buttstock and the forearm. The poly is rubbed in but try to stop as soon as it begins to feel tacky as to continue invites streaks and fingerprinting. Apply next coat as quickly as possible(follow label time directions) and I don't sand between coats. When the finish is nearing the desired thickness I will allow the finish to fully harden and steel wool a bit to level the surface. To finish apply a coat using the least amount I can properly rub out and allow it to dry. Will leave the surface very shiny, almost like a Weatherby type finish and any defects will be readily apparent and can be easily repaired. If a satin finish is desired a very light buffing with steel fur (0000) and apply a bit of finishing wax. Leaves a glowing satiny sheen...looks great! Can also be rubbed out with rottenstone or stock polishes as desired. Good luck from the gunnut69