Author Topic: Ruger 77 trigger (Read 725 times)

daddywpb · « **on:** December 30, 2004, 12:48:32 AM »

My wife bought me a Timney trigger for my Ruger M77 MK2 for Christmas. The trigger is the only thing I don't like about the rifle - it's horrible. Was wondering if this is a project to tackle myself, or do I need to have a gunsmith do it? Any installation advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

Dave in WV · « **Reply #1 on:** December 30, 2004, 02:40:00 AM »

I know two guys that installed their own. IF you have to file any on the safety at all do a very little at a time until it works is their advice.

CEJ1895 · « **Reply #2 on:** December 30, 2004, 03:23:54 AM »

daddywpb - I believe that Lawdog has installed a couple of these triggers on his Ruger's. You might want to post this question on the Big Bore forum. CEJ...

daddywpb · « **Reply #3 on:** January 01, 2005, 03:30:29 PM »

Well, I took most of the day, filing very slowly, untill the safety selector worked. When I put the action back in the stock, the load/unload notch was gone, and the trigger didn't work. I left the Timney sear and spring in, and replaced the factory trigger, and the safety wouldn't work. I wasn't about to start filing on the factory trigger, so I put the original parts back in. Now the floorplate doesn't want to snap into the closed position. What a nightmare this has been. Should have left it alone. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you.

gunnut69 · « **Reply #4 on:** January 01, 2005, 09:01:41 PM »

The floorplate has nothing to do with the trigger, you simply haven't re-assembled the rifle correctly. There are 3 screws on the 77. Loosen all three a couple of turns. With the floorplate open and the rifle pointing upward, and making certain the metal is as far to the rear as the recoil lug will allow slowly tighten the front screw until the action and floorplate don't move. The floorplate is then lowered and the trigger guard centered to hold it down. The rear screw is gently applied and the floorplate is opened and the center screw tightened just finger tight. The front screw can thenm be tightened completely and the rear a bit less than the front and the center screw just enough to hold the trigger guard in place. This is the one that can cause trouble for the floorplate if over tightened. It is a bit of a juggleing act but can be fairly eassily resolved. I think I'd take that trigger to a smith for installation.. There are several critical relationships that have to be maintained in the firecontrol system for the rifle and it's safety to fire and function correctly. Poor fitting can render the trigger unuseable..

daddywpb · « **Reply #5 on:** January 02, 2005, 12:01:28 AM »

gunnut69,
Thank you for the help. I took the action out and put it back several times yesterday trying to figure out what was wrong with the floorplate. Those three screws were VERY tight when I took it out for the first time. I'll follow your instructions and try it again today. As for the trigger, there isn't anybody to take it to around here. There is only one store advertising gunsmith services, but I've had trouble with them in the past, that's why I was going to give it a try. I guess I'll just try to return it, and deal with the trigger the way it came - very heavy. Thanks again.
Steve

daddywpb · « **Reply #6 on:** January 02, 2005, 04:59:15 AM »

gunnut69,
The trigger still sucks, but my floorplate is fixed, thanks to your instructions.
Thank you!

gunnut69 · « **Reply #7 on:** January 02, 2005, 10:07:01 AM »

If you'd like to try the trigger install again i'll try to help.. What did the instructions say to do first?

good luck!!

daddywpb · « **Reply #8 on:** January 02, 2005, 02:55:17 PM »

I got the new sear and spring in, and then filed the flat on the trigger where the safety moves across untill it worked. It was clicking into all three positions nicely, and I was proud of myself - then I put the action back into the stock and nothing would work. The center safety position was gone, and the trigger wouldn't pull. I'll probably have to wait untill next weekend to work with it again - weeknights have been pretty hectic around here.

bchannell · « **Reply #9 on:** January 27, 2005, 10:20:25 PM »

This problem comes up from time to time in the forums, it's simple to understand and fix. Timney doesn't give very good instructions with their triggers, but they work so good, I'm willing to forgive them.

You sound like you've installed the trigger correctly in the action and got the safety working properly with the action out of the stock. The problem is that the Timney trigger has a protrusion on the right hand side of the action that will contact the stock when the action is replaced in it. You can see the trigger touching the wood with the action in the stock and the trigger guard removed. You will need to relieve a spot of wood about 1/4" wide by 1/4 long on the ledge of wood where it contacts the trigger. If you've had the action tightened in the stock, it will have left an indent in the wood where it needs relieved. The contact is so small that it would be unlikely that tightening the action in the stock would bend or damage anything. A dremel tool, used carefully is the fastest way to make the required notch. Once done, you'll be back in business.

Hope this helps others who try installing a Timney.

daddywpb · « **Reply #10 on:** January 27, 2005, 10:36:47 PM »

bchannell,
Thanks for the info, but I already returned the Timney, and installed a trigger from Rifle Basix. It breaks crisp and clean, and the pull weight is adjustable from 14 ounces to 2 1/2 pounds. It was a 10 minute drop in installation with the only adjustment required being the pull weight, and it uses the factory sear. I have it set for about two pounds. If Rifle Basix can manufacture a trigger that doesn't require being fitted, then I wonder why Timney can't?