I use a premium blend of moly anti-seize because it has more moly in it.(higher %) I apply it inside the reciever on the bolt and bolt carrier, the hammer face too, a little on the rear cover lips, a little on the recoil spring and on the gas piston and gas tube too. I also coat the trigger group too. I take the piston and put it in backwards to work the moly in first before assembly. Then i put a little more on it and assemble it. Then assemble the gun and work it in by running the bolt carrier a few times before firing. It will feel tight at first then it will free up as the moly does its thing. BigBill
Most will say to run the gas piston/gas tube dry but i don't thats why some of the shooter grade yugo's didn't function because of too much wear in the gas system. The moly can take the high temps too and even though you won't see it in the gas system after shooting the sks its still in the pores of the metal doing its thing.
Moly stays were you put it and stays wet even in storage the gun is ready to rock n roll at anytime. Moly works its way into the small pores of the metal so there is no metal to metal contact anymore its moly against moly thus elimating all friction, all wear and galling too. The gun cycles faster and smoother too. On the trigger sear it will lessen the trigger pull too making it smoother too. All my guns are moly'ed up and they never leave home without it. I use it in all semi-auto's, bolt actions wether its a rifle or handguns too.
Now on your sks did you disassemble the firing pin from the bolt? It must be done to keep the gun from slam firing due to crud in the bore and on the firing pin. It won't be cleaned by soaking it alone even though it may seem free it can stick at anytime because the crud is still in there.
