Ka6otm reminded me of something.
Years ago, a buddy and I arrived at our favorite gravel pit for a shooting session.
We found numerous targets pasted to scrap lumber, with .38-caliber holes in the paper and wood.
And around each hole was a bright smear of green or blue.
We found some lead bullets behind the targets and --- lo and behold! --- it appeared that they had been lubricated with green or blue Crayons!
My buddy and I marveled at the blue or green smear of lubricant around the holes. It was new lumber, so each hole in the 2X4 and 2X6 planks showed the color to good effect.
Though we discussed it, I never did try Crayons as a bullet lubricant. I don't know how well they work. Fact is, they'd probably be pricey to use.
But there sure was NO mistaking which bullet created the hole.
This might be useful in target competition. No one could deny it was your hole, with a red, blue or green smear around it.
Come to think of it, I knew a guy years ago who would lightly stamp the initial of his last name on his muzzleloading rifle balls. He loaded the ball stamp-down in the patch while hunting.
Seems, he'd lost a deer to another hunter who claimed it was HIS .50-caliber ball in the animal. He couldn't prove it was his and it got him to thinking.
A light tap on the base of the ball didn't affect accuracy any, and the stamped initial was protected by the patch. Don't know that he ever had to prove ownership again, but I suppose it gave him peace of mind while hunting.
Sheesh ... how did I wander so far off from the original subject?
Hey, if you ever want to reload black powder with lead bullets I have an excellent recipe for a bullet lubricant.
Found this in the pages of a 1943 American Rifleman magazine. It's an old, factory recipe for outside-lubricated bullets, such as the .22 rimfires and .32, .38 and .41 Long Colt.
But I've used it for felt wads for my cap and ball revolvers, patches for my .50 caliber muzzleloading rifle and lead bullets in my .44-40 and .45-70 rifles. It's an excellent lubricant and cheap to make.
To wit:
1 part paraffin (I use canning paraffin, found in the cooking section of the grocery store)
1 part mutton tallow (available from Dixie Gun Works)
1/2 part beeswax
All measurements are by weight, not volume. I use a kitchen scale to measure 200/200/100 grams of ingredients. This nearly fills a quart Mason Jar.
Fill the jar with the measured ingredients then place it in three to four inches of boiling water for a double-boiler effect (the safest way to melt greases and waxes).
When all ingredients are thoroughly melted, blend well with a clean stick or disposable chopstick.
Allow to harden at room temperature. Attempting to hasten hardening by placing in the refrigerator may cause the ingredients to separate.
This creates a lubricant nearly identical to commercially available black powder bullet lubricants, but it's much cheaper.
It's good stuff too! Keeps leading to a minimum and keeps the black powder fouling soft too.
I've also used it in my .357 Magnum at velocities up to about 1,200 without any significant leading.
When the jar of lubricant has cooled, put the screw-cap down tight and place it in a cool, dry place. I've never had it go rancid or separate on me. But then, I use it for so many different applications that it doesn't get much of a chance to sit around.
Hope this helps!
