Author Topic: Qhuestions about my new Contender. (Read 539 times)

MileHi · « **on:** February 10, 2005, 03:40:08 PM »

Well, new to me. I bought a 5 digit frame, looks new. I found a newer (screwed on front sights) 10" 30-30 barrel and scope and mounts at the gun show last weekend. Can't wait.

I was glad to find this forum, I have a few things that maybe you all can help with. First, when I close the barrel, it is dang hard to pull the trigger guard and open it. What is up with that? Second, I really need some load data for the 30-30 in a 10" barrel. What are the best bullets for use in this set up?

Thanks in advance to any of you who reply.

Regards,

Newbie

Steve P · « **Reply #1 on:** February 10, 2005, 04:26:11 PM »

First of all, it would take volumes to answer these two questions. So I will give you a short version, you supply more info, we will go from there.

The early grip frames had a different opening mechanism than the newer frames. The early barrels had a single locking lug. The newer barrels actually have two locking lugs. If you have a frame with the early parts in it, and a new barrel with two locking lugs, that is why it is hard opening.

I like using Nosler Ballistic Tips and Remington Bulk 150 core locks in my 10" 30-30 barrel.

Good luck and shoot straight.

Steve

MileHi · « **Reply #2 on:** February 10, 2005, 04:44:31 PM »

Thanks, Steve.

By locking lugs, do you mean the two round "posts" on each side of the latch on the barrel? I see two "fingers" in the frame that I suppose push those two "posts" foreward to release the latch.

Am I on the right track? I have heard that the "fingers may need to be stoned to smooth up the release.

Thanks for the info and regards.

Racepres · « **Reply #3 on:** February 10, 2005, 06:17:28 PM »

I've had my "hard to open" frames for along time now and I found that "split" or late model locking lugs actually lock-up tighter than the old singles. Therefor I believe that they also shoot better. I don't recommend stoning first, Just learn to grip the tang w/ yer fingers and squeeze while ya "rap" yer knuckles on yer knee or leg or w/ yer other hand. "Hard" opening is the nature of the beast unless you send it to T/C and have it mod'ed to the easy-open. Me I like mine just like it is (only been that way since the 70's).....Marty

MileHi · « **Reply #4 on:** February 11, 2005, 03:11:21 PM »

So to your mind, that is a normal condition? I am learning here. Can't wait to shoot the thing.

Well, how about some loading data for 30-30 in a 10" barrel? Especially heavy spitzers (150 - 180 gr)

Thanks for the reply

Racepres · « **Reply #5 on:** February 11, 2005, 03:57:24 PM »

If you have an early frame it is in fact normal that it is going to require some more effort to open. Also you can make it open easier, but IMHO you will sacrifice accuracy. You can live w/ it or have it modified, which I am totally against. Preferable to sell it to a collector, and buy a newer one which is more user friendly. But it is yours to do as you will w/ it.... Marty

MileHi · « **Reply #6 on:** February 13, 2005, 03:14:21 PM »

He! I'm gonna shoot it. We will see how it does.

Thanks for the reply.

Curtis · « **Reply #7 on:** February 13, 2005, 03:41:51 PM »

The only time my "hard to open" frame gave me any trouble is recently after a 6 hour range session of almost 300 rounds. If I hadn't been shooting from a rest, I wouldn't have had strength enough left to hold the gun up. I'm with the others though, I'd rather keep mine unaltered and buy a later model "easy open" contender if it was a real problem.

Curtis