Author Topic: I Have a Timing Question (Read 603 times)

November · « **on:** February 18, 2005, 04:28:45 PM »

What is optimum timing for a single-action? I have two Blackhawks... on one of them the cylinder will lock a little before the hammer cocks, on the other the cylinder lock and hammer cock at the exact same time. Which is the more desirable situation?

Iowegan · « **Reply #1 on:** February 18, 2005, 05:06:53 PM »

Perfect timing for a Ruger SA is when the cylinder locks in the last few thousandths of hammer travel. If the cylinder locks too soon, the hammer will bind before locking into the sear. If the timing is slow, the hammer will cock and the cylinder won't be locked.

The answer to your question: There is a tolerance of a few thousandths, plus or minus. As long as the cylinder locks and the hammer cocks without binding, you're good to go. Be sure to test by applying a little finger friction on the cylinder.

The bottom tooth of the pawl regulates when the cylinder locks. A short tooth will result in cock-before-locked. A long tooth will lock-before cocked.

November · « **Reply #2 on:** February 18, 2005, 05:27:45 PM »

I'll try the finger friction test. Thanks for the tip.

November · « **Reply #3 on:** February 20, 2005, 05:13:23 PM »

Iowegan, I tried the friction test and the results are the same...cylinder lock and hammer cock still happen simultaneously (even when I go REAL SLOW). I feel better knowing everything's OK. Thanks again.

unspellable · « **Reply #4 on:** February 21, 2005, 01:14:46 PM »

The with a little bit of drag on it the cylinder should lock just a little bit before the hammer reachs full cock. Once locked and cocked you should be able to pull the hammer back farther just a little bit.

Whether this is a question of the hand length, or the hand width/slot width (assuming the ratchet or pawl is OK.) depends on the particular model of revolver under disussion.