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Offline TOMMYY01

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Range rerun
« on: March 14, 2005, 11:43:00 AM »
Went back to the range today. Finally got the 223 sighted in! Whew! While I was out there I run into this retired marine and we got to talking. It finally hit me that none of my rifles were really broke in. He told me how to go about it, and so when I left the range I went to the wally world close by and got what I needed.  :wink:  Starting tomorrow, I will do 1 gun a day until they are all done. He also told me that when I go back to the range, to fire a shot  and clean good between shots. It deburrs the barrel and when the copper is no longer there all you should get is powder residue. He said it is polishing the barrel. I want  my rifles to shoot real good. He also told me that after doing this, you will be able to see the grouping get smaller.  :grin: Soooo, it looks like march and part of april will be getting my rifles and shotguns  squared away.  :shock:
                                                                 tommy
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Offline TOMMYY01

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« Reply #1 on: March 14, 2005, 12:48:17 PM »
Got another question. The retired marine also told me to get some bore cleaner that has ammonia in it. Butch's I believe is what he said. I got some birchwood casey stuff. he also told me that ammonia gets the copper fouling out the best. Can you guys tell me what other stuff I should pick up? I plan on having these guns until I'm underground. And I want the best possible care so they will shoot like they should. :music:
                                                                  tommy
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Offline Mac11700

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« Reply #2 on: March 14, 2005, 01:26:21 PM »
TOMMYY01:
 
 
There are a couple of different ways to " Break In " a rifle...and while using a non-abrasive ammonia base cleaner will defiantly work...you will shoot up a consideral amount of ammo in doing it that way...

A simpler method is to get a small tube of Flitz polish...or a small container of JB Bore Paste...and JB Bore Bright...and hand lap the barrels with them...then use a normal bore cleaner...like Hoppes #9 to remove that...for the Flitz...soak a slightly oversize bore mop with it...and make about 30-50 passes thru the bore...and clean real good with the Hoppes #9 after that as you normally would do...... for the JB Bore cleaner and Bore Brite they recommend a undersized bronze bore brush wrapped with a cleaning patch...fire 5-10 rounds then clean and polish  it again...your rifle will be broken in just fine...and it will get easier to clean...the main thing to remember doing this...is not to polish the chamber(unless your cases are sticking) and the throat area...with the Handi's it is very easy to do this...

Butches stuff is a very good cleaner...so is Barnes CR-10...and tonite I'm trying another product...this one is one of the foaming type...spray it in...and wait 1/2 hour...then clean normally...it's by Gunslick...


Like I said...there are several different ways of achieving a clean bore...


Mac
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Offline quickdtoo

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« Reply #3 on: March 14, 2005, 01:26:56 PM »
Butches Bore Shine is good stuff, but I like WipeOut much better, it's easy to use and doesn't smell, works better.

http://www.graybeardoutdoors.com/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=57990

http://rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=88113
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Offline TOMMYY01

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« Reply #4 on: March 15, 2005, 11:22:41 AM »
Well, I thank you guys for the help. Unfortunately, I'll have to wait til sat morning. These yahoos around here don't carry the flitz or the jb stuff. I'll have to go to BPS TO GET THE STUFF! Of course, that might be a good thing since I'll probably need to pick up some more ammo.  :-D  Got me some of these little sand bags also, to steady and make sure that the gun is stationary when I pull the trigger. I might just get the 223 done first, then thinking about maybe sending the forearm and stock to HR/ NEF  and order a 22 hornet barrel. Will they do a trigger job for free or will that cost me and how much do you think that will be? Hopefully, maybe this is probably a good time to send it in and get the barrel and not take too long. decisions, decisions! :idea:  These people around here aren't the sharpest knives in the drawer! :roll:
Thanks again :mrgreen:
                                                 tommy
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Offline quickdtoo

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« Reply #5 on: March 15, 2005, 11:39:29 AM »
Tommy, you can also use Maas or Simichrome metal polish. One of em should be stocked near you.....

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Offline Coastwatcher

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« Reply #6 on: March 15, 2005, 12:08:05 PM »
Tommy01,  The ammonia cleaners do work on copper fouling, but they should not be left in the bore for long.  Make sure you use a non-ammonia bore cleaner after.  They say to use only in a well ventilated area and they aren't kidding.  That stuff is strong.
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Offline TOMMYY01

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« Reply #7 on: March 16, 2005, 12:47:27 PM »
Mac,
What do you mean to hand lap the barrels? I don't understand. Sorry, I'm not too bright about this :shock:
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Offline quickdtoo

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« Reply #8 on: March 16, 2005, 01:11:34 PM »
Tommy, the process Mac explained in his post is the hand lapping or hand polishing using the flitz or JB non-embedding bore compound.
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Offline Mac11700

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« Reply #9 on: March 16, 2005, 07:06:59 PM »
Quote from: TOMMYY01
Mac,
What do you mean to hand lap the barrels? I don't understand. Sorry, I'm not too bright about this :shock:  
                                                                   tommy

 
Thanks Quick...
 
Tommy...hand lapping the barrels is a time proven method to smoothing them up...a-lot of the real expensive rifles have this done to them...there have been links to those sites...and they explaining the recommended way  of doing their barrels...I'm not 100% sure of the compounds they use...but using the different ones I' told you...works pretty darn good for smoothing them up...Shooting and cleaning takes a-lot of time...and I'm always looking for a easier way to accomplish this...so...I have tried both the JB compounds...and the Flitz on a few different rifles...I've also followed up with Shooters choice after using them as well...I have had some real good luck with them...both work good...you just have to go easy on them in the throat area and in the chamber...and you have to flush out all the paste completely afterwards...one thing I've found...if you want to shoot any moly coated bullets...and get real good accuracy...you need to do the hand lapping before shooting a-lot of any bullets thru it...and then lap it again after the first 25-30 rounds...after that...only if your accuracy starts to go south on you...or if you shoot non-coated bullets in it and moly bullets...you can't expect good accuracy shooting both kinds and not starting out with a perfectly clean bore...
 
Mac
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Offline TOMMYY01

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« Reply #10 on: March 17, 2005, 09:25:34 AM »
Thanks mac and quick. I appreciate the info. I guess an old dog can learn new tricks after all.  :eek:  I'm thinking also that my problem mostly, is keeping steady. It seems that the trigger pull is a bit stout also. I guess that means I need to order a 22 Hornet barrel and get a trigger job. :toast:  :mrgreen:
                                                          thanks again,
                                                          tommy
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Offline TOMMYY01

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« Reply #11 on: March 17, 2005, 12:47:25 PM »
Mac or Quick,
When I send the forearm and stock in for a 22 Hornet barrel, If I mention something about the trigger being a little stout, will they give me a trigger job also? I'm just curious how much it will cost. :roll:
                                                              tommy
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Offline DaveP

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« Reply #12 on: March 17, 2005, 01:19:33 PM »
They done mine for free,but that was a couple years ago.Give 'em a call or send off an email.Dave
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Offline quickdtoo

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« Reply #13 on: March 17, 2005, 01:35:28 PM »
There has been a post or two stating that they have started(since June 04 when they started charging $15 for barrel fitting) charging $20 to reduce an already less than 5lb trigger to about 3lbs, but if it's over 5lbs to start with, they do it for free. Since most H&R triggers used to be over 5lbs, that makes sense. The last 4 new H&R rifles I bought had triggers right at 4lbs or a little less. Appears to me that they have reduced the trigger pull weight on new productions to satifsy us......maybe! That said, I haven't seen anyone actually post they were charged for a trigger job yet. So, the most it would cost is $20, but more than likely it will be free.
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