Author Topic: Relining a .22 rimfire barrel (Read 1748 times)

WLB · « **on:** January 04, 2003, 05:39:48 AM »

My 14 year old son would like to reline the barrel on his original Stevens Favorite rifle and we need to make a drill to take the bore out to .312 for the liner. I figure that I can anneal the end of a 5/16" drill and drill a .250 hole in it about 3/4" deep and then silver solder a piece of 1/4" drill rod in the hole to get the length we need. The problem is getting a guide on the cutting end. I can't believe that the drill will follow the hole without a guide. I only see two reasonable methods of getting a guide on the end of the drill: grind the cutting end of the drill down to .223 or anneal the cutting end and drill a .125 hole in this end, harden the drill, and silver solder a guide in the hole. There doesn't look like there would be enough meat in the end of the drill to grind it totally round at .223.

The only other way I see to do this is take a piece of 5/16th drill rod, bore the end as above for the 1/4" shank, turn about a half inch of the other end to .223 for the guide, carefully grind cutting lips and flutes, and harden.

Does anyone know a better way of doing this? Thanks
Bill

Double D · « **Reply #1 on:** January 04, 2003, 09:59:47 AM »

Go to Brownells and order their liner drill http://www.brownells.com/Index.html

gunnut69 · « **Reply #2 on:** January 04, 2003, 10:00:02 PM »

If you buy the shorter one it is a bit cheaper and can easily be lengthened, but you had it backwards. Use an inserted bit tool with a C6 insert and tuen the rear of the bit down, then drill and ream the drill rod to accept the step down.. A good fit will allow soft solder to hold quite well enough!! good luck from the gunnut69

WLB · « **Reply #3 on:** January 08, 2003, 02:39:23 AM »

Thanks, everyone, for the information. I was aware that Brownell's had a drill for the purpose but since this project is as much about teaching my son different aspects of metal working as well as restoring a classic firearm to shooting condition I am hoping that we can make the tooling ourselves. We have designed a cutting tool and my son should have it machined within the next day or so. If it works I'll have him post a picture. If it doesn't work I guess I'll buy the drill form Brownell's.
Bill

WLB · « **Reply #4 on:** January 19, 2003, 07:16:37 AM »

Attached--I hope--are photos of the drill that we made to bore out the barrel for installation of a liner. It was machined from 5/16th drill rod and hardened by heating to cherry red and quenching in motor oil, then drawing the temper back to a purple color. We had intended to draw the temper to a straw color but it heated up too fast. It was slow going; the drill had to be withdrawn about every 1/16th to 1/8 inch to remove the chips but it cut a nice clean hole.

We intend to use JB Weld to install the liner. I have had success using this epoxy material on a wide variety of jobs including building up low areas on intake ports of racing heads for better air flow. I doubt the barrel will ever get hotter than an air cooled head.

This worked so well that I think we will make our own chambering reamer. :-)
Bill

kend · « **Reply #5 on:** February 06, 2003, 02:52:18 AM »

The tool looks good, if you decide you need a "store bought" tool or reamer you can rent them at http://4-dproducts.com/index.html
I have a friend that makes a lot of his own tools, he uses a piece of car axle for it. Anneal it, machine it and re-harden. They work great and one axle will make a pile of tools.

WLB · « **Reply #6 on:** February 12, 2003, 02:15:20 AM »

Thanks for the info on the 4D website, kend. I haven't been able to get past the home page to see what they have though. We got the liner epoxied in without any problems but won't chamber it until we get the action tightened up. Making oversized screws has proven to be much more of a job than making the liner drill and drilling the barrel. Can't seem to get the threaded part and the body of the screw perfectly concentric.
Years ago I used that car axle trick to make an axle for a drag bike. Built a big fire in the back yard and put the axle in it and then let it cool overnight in the ashes.
Bill

Double D · « **Reply #7 on:** February 13, 2003, 06:01:56 AM »

Kend thanks for the link to 4d. Haven't used them before, didn't know they were around. I have been using http://www.reamerrentals.com/ and I am very satisfied with the service. Next time I need reamer I think I'll give 4d a try.

WLB, that's a good looking tool, but what makes it look even better is the fact that father and son made it together. Good job. We need more of that.

WLB · « **Reply #8 on:** February 14, 2003, 04:57:59 AM »

Thanks DD, my son and I have worked on a wide variety of projects over the years. Besides his truck (52 GMC on an S10 chassis with one piece fiberglass tilting front end) I think we will be starting on a cannon or mortar soon.
Bill

Double D · « **Reply #9 on:** February 14, 2003, 05:58:54 AM »

Cannon and mortars...join use over on the Cannon and mortar board.

http://www.graybeardoutdoors.com/phpbb2/viewforum.php?f=88

Beer can mortar is a good first gun poject.