BEAVER BELIEFS----MINE THAT IS.

[Bogmaster]

The following are my beliefs concerning Beaver,they will run against what many believe ,thats why I state---they are mine.
 #1.There isn,t a beaver alive that can't be caught in a 330.
 Do beaver get square shy? You bet,but that doesn't mean you can't catch them in a 330.You are a human being and as such have more reasoning capabilities than our largest rodents.It may take time ,it may be difficult ,but it can be done.
 The main reason trappers think certain beavers can't be caught in 330s ,is they give up to soon and turn to footholds or snares.Now I understand this,especially when guys are doing ADC work.But given the time and trying differant things---that beaver can be caught in that 330.
 #2.Castor Mound sets are only good in the spring.Sorry boys,I use them at all times of year when trapping beaver.
 While I do not do summer beaver work,I sell a lot of my lure to ADC trappers that are castor mounding them all summer long.
 #3.This is a 2 parter,I believe a beavers sense of smell is much greater than they are given credit for,also their eyesight.
 Many Many times,I have taken beaver when the wind and waves --up to big white caps --was blowing in on my castor mound sets.
 That is one reason I place a pile of mud behind the trap,some others just lure a stck and place it behind the trap---now this use of just lure on a stick will work------I believe that a lot of that attraction is created by the mud and the lure.I think many beaver ,just keep on trucking,when all that is used is the stick.
 #4.Beaver become castor shy---sorry again----I think some lures just quit attracting beavers.
 Before I came out with my own lures,I was using up to 7 lures by differant lure makers.Some just quit pulling them in and I was always switching lures.That taught me something when I came out with my own.Both are castor based but they are differant odor wise.I alternate #1 and #2 all along my line.I have watched beaver go right by one set and fly right into the next one 10 feet away,so variety always takes place on my line.
 I also make my lure in very small batches and while the basic ingredients are the same in every batch.If I think a bit more of this or that is needed--it gets it. That way my lures while basically the same--vary a tad from batch to batch.It has worked well for me on my line and also kept my customers coming back for more.
 As a side note to Asa ,yours was not one of the 7 that was used when I was running into lure disinterest problems.
 Now I have several more Beaver Beliefs--but they will come out in the next post.
 Remember--these are my beliefs ,I am sure not all will agree---but thats what this forum is for.
 Tom

[Asa Lenon]

Excellent thread Bog!  Ace :-)

[coyotero]

Thanks  Tom excellent thread.I have a theory on lures that lose their effectiveness,ability to still call the animals.These lure are made with a lot of aromatic ingredients,stuff that they only smell at the trap set.If I switch to a different lure it's business as usual.Some lures are made with ingredients natural to the animal therefore are always of interest.Just my thoughts.

[Howell Reeves]

Tom I have trapped beaver for several years and mostly used run sets dam sets and cross overs. I just started using scent pads this year with great success. I cant  say about them getting lure shy not enough experience.with beaver lures.
I  had an experience this year I will share.The beaver were coming out of a creek to a pond they built it was 20yds from the creek to the pond just  out in the open no cover.Where the beaver came out of the creek  the trail had worn down  to about 30ins  deep ditch and it went for 5 or 6 feet angling up that bank to flat ground..The bank is steep there so Istood in that ditch and set a cdr  where they were pulling up..
After I done that not one beaver used that  pull up area.They went down the creek a few feet climbed up on the bank then into the same trail..I was there a week and half with no beaver used that  ditched pull up.So a think  me standing in that ditch even with hip boots on left to much of my scent there they stopped using it..
On the end that trail that went into the pond was  an old  brush pile they drove under it  in the water I caught 5 beaver there in conis .

[steven49er]

That is one reason I place a pile of mud behind the trap,some others just lure a stck and place it behind the trap---now this use of just lure on a stick will work------I believe that a lot of that attraction is created by the mud and the lure.I think many beaver ,just keep on trucking,when all that is used is the stick

I guess I am a lure and a bait guy.  Almost never make a mud pie.  Different strokes for different folks.  It my personel belief that a beaver will see the stick better.  Of course the fact that it is 18 inches tall helps.  I think a beaver sees the stick and smells the castor and thinks another beaver has been there.  

Like I said different strokes for different folks.

[Snareman]

Bogmaster,

While I don't think #3 are unique thoughts among beaver men, #1 about the 330's have my interest piqued.

What "specific" techniques do you use to trap beaver in 330's some may feel are hard to catch?

#1 is a statement, but does little to bring in suggestions on how to trap these "square shy" varmints and it would be interesting to hear the many ways you go about pursuing such beaver.  Your statement naturally would lead someone to ask eventually... so here it is.  LOL!

Thanks,

Snareman

[Howell Reeves]

I set a coni in a narrow ditch  half in half out  of the water with sticks to hold it in place.I  had  a beaver   get  up on the bank of the  narrow  ditch to go around the  conibear, the conibear was  thrown  and laying on the bank opposite  where the beaver went around.  I went further down the the ditch where it was wider and set a coni  with a dive stick .All the beaver could see  was the dive stick . the sticks  holding the trap up were under water.I had a very large female the next day.
Yes I think beaver can be conibear shy or maybe shy of changes in their inviroment that are to obvious and they shy away from it.
The place  I mentioned on the other post on this thread I had to leave it for a whlie and let cool down. I went back and caught 3 more beaver. I caught them at 3 totally different places than the frist time  I was there. I took 11 beaver out of that area.

[woodtick]

Although I rely on blind and baited sets more than the castor mound, and I switch from conibears to footholds faster when beaver seem shy just to save time. I agree with EVERY point you made.
On a little side note, I believe in some instances when a trapper thinks that a beaver has become trap shy, it is just as likely that the beaver has actually become trap SITE shy.

[RayA]

Haa Tom
 Good Post bud. Everybody does things a bit different. Like you mentioned some folks go to footholds if there seams to be a square shy beaver around  and yes  iam one of them.I go to footholds instead of snares and use them only as a last resort. I do believe as you stated though if time is not in question(ADC Job) 330's will take 99% a them. Ive seen your demo's and have used some of the same fare fetched looking sets(LOL) and danged if they wasnt a beaver waiting for me the next check.But Several times ive had a foothold close by and will take beaver in them a bit quicker in cirtain situations. RayA

[MChewk]

Good post Tom and though its been said before I feel ...opinion here... that most beaver become bodygripper shy due SEEING one of their own in a stabilized trap...animal propped up with trap on it....can aid in educating animal. Using the fall away stabilizer system....ie trap fires and is released shortly after catching animal ..animal out of sight... Also feel it is more of an "area" that they are fearful of not just trap. Trappers USUALLY just reset area after making a catch instead of reviewing situation. As I have experienced "spookiness" after snaring beaver at a set area. Usually have scoot down a bit to catch others.

[Bogmaster]

Mike,I think some open water beaver trappers,shoot themselves in the foot.While drowning sets and body grippers,by most state laws,need not be checked every day.
 A lot of the spooky beaver(in my opinion) are caused by not checking every day.I check and remove my catch on a daily basis,this keeps other beavers in the area ,from seeing one of their relatives in my set every time they come by.Also a full trap is incapable of making another catch.
 An example ---I have a set 30 feet from the cabin I stay in.I have set a trap there for 11 years.During that time span,I have taken 120 to 150 beaver from 1 trap at this same spot.3 years ago,I took 17 beaver from this trap in 11 days.I believe it was 11 the first 6 days I was there.
 I check this trap first thing every morning,sometimes even while having my breakfast cup of coffee.Just before I go to bed,I check it again.
 Several times,I have removed a beaver in the morning,checked my other traps on the lake,and caught one while I was checking the others.I then removed that one,left to check the rest of my line,and had another when I returned.
 Now if any set should cause shyness ,it is this one.It is in shallow water,I have to dig down a bit to get my 330 half submerged.You would think after all these years and all the beaver taken from it,this set would be avoided like the plaque.Not so--and I believe the reason is,the beaver is removed from the trap not long after it is taken.
 Now I know this is not possible on everyones line.But this is just another one of my thoughts and how I do things.
 Tom

[mntrapper28]

i too am a stong believer in checking 330's everyday, for 1. it's an excuse to get out of the house and away from the wife and kids, 2. i don't want a trap with a beaver sitting for two days when it could be emptied to catch antoher one.  i'm also to stubborn to use anything but 330's, and when i think there getting square shy, i usually move them to a different location.

[jim wallner]

I believe most beavers become conibear shy because they have had the trap snap in there face. Mostly from an improper stabilized trap or to small of conibear.

[Howell Reeves]

I also am a user of fall away stabilizers.I use 2 sticks crossed and just pushed in the mud enough to hold the trap up so when the beaver hits the trap the sticks fall away. I want that beaver to get out of the path. or run.Also someone mentioned running them  every 36 or 48hrs.
That  along with the beaver  may not be out of the swim path will cause other beaver to bite them to get them out of the way then you got a damaged pelt.