Author Topic: new to winchester  (Read 959 times)

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Offline lisa1lacy2

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new to winchester
« on: April 04, 2005, 01:14:41 PM »
I just bought my first winchester 70 featherweight in 257 roberts ackley improved it is not my first winchester rifle I have a mod 94 3030
but it is my first bolt gun from them I really like the gun but I have a ? I am a rem 700 fan have a 223 and a 7mm mag they only have two stock screws the win chester has three I have be told that if you tighten the middle screw to much it will make the accuracy bad is this true :shock:
Brian Milner

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Offline JPSaxMan

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new to winchester
« Reply #1 on: April 04, 2005, 01:40:47 PM »
Well,

If you start screwing with the stock bolts on any rifle, accuracy will be effected (I know from experience; you try fighting with a 700 that was shooting fine until a few months before deer season arrives then try to figure out wut's wrong with it :roll:  :) ).

I've never heard that theory, but I can tell you this much. It might be wise not to remove the screws unless necessary (like if you expose it to heavy rain, drop it in a crick like I did :-D , things like that). I was removing the screws every time I cleaned it just to make sure I was cleaning the gun then my hunting buddy told me, "That's why your groups are screwing up...you keep moving them screws."

Just keep clear of them screws unless need be and you'll be fine. I am a Rem fan as well. My deer gun is a 700 ADL Syn in .243. Moving the screws on this gun really screwed up the accuracy. Congrats on the new rifle!  :D
JP

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Offline while99

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new to winchester
« Reply #2 on: April 04, 2005, 03:59:40 PM »
I bought a torque wrench that measures in inch-pounds and here is the way I set the action screws on either a Model 70 Winchester or a Model 700 Remington.  I'm not saying this is factory specs, this is just what works for me.  I put the barreled action in the stock and run all of the screws in finger-tight.  I then push the barreled action back so that the recoil lug is firmly seated in the lug mortise.  There are various ways to do this.  One is to gently bump the butt plate on the floor and another is to put a block of wood over the muzzle and tap it gently with a plastic mallet.  Or, you could just grab the barrel and push hard towards the rear.  Once the barreled action is seated against the lug mortise, I torque the front and rear screws on the 700 Remington to 30 or 35 inch-pounds.  On a Model 70 Winchester, I set all three screws to 20 inch-pounds and then set the front and rear screws to 30 - 35 inch-pounds and leave the middle screw at 20 inch-pounds.  That is enough tension on the middle screw so that it won't shake loose but not so much that it will warp the action.  On stocks with pillar bedding or aluminum bedding blocks, you can probably use a higher torque setting.  I remember seeing a Brownell's add for a wooden stock with an aluminum bedding block and the recommend torque was 65 inch-pounds.  The secret is to find what setting your rifle likes and then return to that setting every time.  By using a torque wrench, that is pretty easy to do.

Offline Ramrod

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« Reply #3 on: April 07, 2005, 01:05:16 PM »
I find best accuracy with the front action screw TIGHT on any bolt action. Winchester reccomends 65 inch pounds, I like even more, and prefer hex head screws for this reason. The rear screw should be fairly tight, but it is the front one that does most of the work holding the action in the stock. And the middle screw, for guns that have them, should just be snugged down, it really just secures the trigger guard and magazine box. It has the potential to bend the action downwards if it is too tight.
"Jesus died for somebody's sins, but not mine." Patti Smith