Author Topic: savage barrels from Midway (Read 2415 times)

Spot Shooter · « **on:** July 03, 2004, 09:35:30 AM »

Have any of you guy's ever used one of the Savage 110 swap out barrels from Midway? If so how bad was it, can anyone (with reasonable caution) swap out the barrels and finally, how did it shoot in terms of accuracy.

Thanks,
Spot

gunnut69 · « **Reply #1 on:** July 03, 2004, 05:41:30 PM »

I've never used the barrel swapping kit from Midway but changing the barrel on a 110 is quite easy. As long as the caliber switch doesn't change the magazine length all you need is the barrel and the headspaace guage. If the change is for a short action to a long you must be cautious as they now make a long and a short action. They started that relatively recently. If changing from a 30-06 to a 270-280-25/06 or 35 Whelan it's a simple barrel change. We of course start with the barreled action out of the stock, the bolt removed and the receiver secured so that the barrel is in the clear. Using a wrench(mine's homemade) remove the barrel nut. The first times usually a bear after that it's a lot easier. I secure the action in a barrel vise with a custom insert (made of oak) and loosen the barrel jam nut. Unscrew the barrel usually by hand but have had to use a strap wrench. Screw the jam nut on the new barrel after carefully inspecting it for cracks. I really prefer to use a new jam nut. The nut is screwed until it reaches the end of the threads on the barrel shank. Start the barrel into the receiver threads after coating the barrel threads with an anti-seize lube. The stuff I use comes from Catepillar and a can lasts nearly forever. Insert the 'GO' headspace guage into the chamber and insert the barrel carefully. continue screwing the barrel into the receiver until the barrels progress is halted by the guage. Be certain the guage is correctlt positioned in the chamber in front of the bolt. When the GO guage halts the barrels progress lock the barrels position by tightening the lock nut on the barrels boss. Don't screw the jam nut down so hard. Just tighten firmly. I usually then remove the GO guage and try the NO GO guage. It's not really needed I suppose but I always was a bit cautious and age has made me even more so. Re-assemble the rifle and you're back in business. Be sure to stamp the caliber of a new barrel on the shank just above the top left edge of the stock. The old barrel can be re-installed with only the acquicition of the correct headspace guages. This assumes the barrel profiles are the same of course.

bajabill · « **Reply #2 on:** May 06, 2005, 07:39:28 AM »

most or all of the A & B barrels are shown as closeout, are these being discontinued or just not being carried by Midway anymore?

gunnut69 · « **Reply #3 on:** May 06, 2005, 08:12:32 AM »

Midway is an agressively run business and they constantly alter their stocking list. I've no idea if they are no longer going to handle these but would doubt they are stopping. They commonly have sales and closeouts, much like the local discount furniture store does. My experience with A&B barrels is that they are perfectly good hunting barrels. Not target grade but adequate for the field, easily..

bajabill · « **Reply #4 on:** May 06, 2005, 07:19:07 PM »

Hey thanks,

when changing barrels on the savage, does the recoil lug allign the same way, especially if the stock has been bedded to the previous installation. And if I were to frequently swap brls, is there any other concerns besides maybe FLS all brass again.

Nobade · « **Reply #5 on:** May 07, 2005, 03:36:05 AM »

The recoil lug has a protrusion stamped into it to align with a notch in the front of the receiver, and the fit is pretty close so it's no problem unless the lug has been bedded. If so, I would probably want to pin the lug as well to make sure it would fit. As for swapping barrels back and forth, it gets kind of tricky to make sure your dies are adjusted to your chamber. I usually will set the headspace on a couple of cases that were just sized with the die that's going to be used, so the bolt just drops with a slight feel on the case. That will get it real close, but it's still not optimum. It's best to not do that very often.

gunnut69 · « **Reply #6 on:** May 07, 2005, 06:15:07 AM »

Aalways use a headspace guage to set the barrels headspace when swapping. Cases necksized only may not chamber if the barrel is removed and re-installed. Full length sizing should solve the problem. If you're really into swapping barrels an adjustable headspace guage can be set to barely allow the bolt to close(after being headspaced). then the guage can be used to replicate the exact headspace setting.