Author Topic: rust proofing/protection methods (Read 794 times)

mortarnoobie · « **on:** May 05, 2005, 04:34:25 PM »

i am in the discussion/planning phase of building a golfball mortar (barrel will be made courtesy of powderkeg) and before i do so, i want to know what i can do for rust proofing it. i have read about 'hot blueing' and stuff, but is this for rust, or is it simply cosmetic? i would store it in a dry area of my basement and plug the barrel and fuse hole, but what about the outside surface? would a quick layer of automotive paint or sealer from a body shop do the job?

Double D · « **Reply #1 on:** May 05, 2005, 05:31:17 PM »

Put on a good coat of primer then paint it black gloss. Ddon't plug the barrel or or vent for storage you will trap air and collect moistures in the bore and vent.

Never heard of a dry basement before.

CAV Trooper · « **Reply #2 on:** May 05, 2005, 05:40:42 PM »

Bluing, either hot or cold is mostly cosmetic and WILL NOT, by itself, prevent steel from rusting to any great degree. To keep from rusting, blued steel has to be oiled and even then, it's the oil and not the bluing that stops the rust.

Back in the day, iron mortars were painted black. A very easy and inexpensive way to paint the tube and prevent rust is to use good old high temp BBQ paint. That's what the NPS uses on the muzzle and around the area of the touch hole of their 6 pounders at St. Augustine.

You don't really have to plug your mortar when you store it. After it's throughly cleaned, before you put it away just use a swab to put a light coat of a good gun oil in the bore. Just make sure to wipe it dry before the next time you fire it.

mortarnoobie · « **Reply #3 on:** May 06, 2005, 02:37:54 AM »

thank you for the tips. i'll keep them in mind. i think black would look good to give it the aggressive look too.

the dry basement; the previous owners, for some reason, left a huge dehumidifyer behind when they left, so i run it in the summer. it does great at keeping mold and stuff out :wink:

mortarnoobie · « **Reply #4 on:** May 06, 2005, 06:51:51 PM »

could i also just get some high-temp clear sealer to put on it if i wanted to keep the metal color?

Cat Whisperer · « **Reply #5 on:** May 07, 2005, 01:47:26 AM »

I take one of three approaches to the issue for my personal mortars:

1) on one mortar I keep it in a 'natural rust' condition. Very easy to maintain, once it rusts evenly, just wipe off excess rust and oil (if you want to).

2) most of my mortars are in-the-white. After firing, I clean with hot soapy water, dry off and oil. IF any rust gets on them I have a wire brush on a 1/2 hp 1725rpm motor that is the same one that I used to finish it with. Only sometimes do I have to touch it up.

3) I have two mortars that are plated. My first was so cool (maybe I was so excited) that I took it to the speed shop and had it bright chromed. The other is my 4.5" (my second mortar made some 30 years after the first) that is Armaloy industrial chrome plated inside and out.

Option 2 is the best (unless it's like the 4.5" which the tube and trunion weigh 103 pounds).

I have also blued (Birchwood Casey works well) but it aslo rusts well too.

I have had a number of them parkerized (phosphoric acid hot bath after sand blast) which looks magnificent.

mortarnoobie · « **Reply #6 on:** May 07, 2005, 11:13:53 AM »

i think my bigger concern is rust IN the bore.. i don't want to go scraping off in this and messing up the diameter or anything. as long as i oil that up good while its not in use, i will be trouble-free, correct?

http://www.zero-rust.com/

found that searching the net. sounds like a good solution for the outside.

CAV Trooper · « **Reply #7 on:** May 07, 2005, 11:24:10 AM »

Quote from: mortarnoobie

as long as i oil that up good while its not in use, i will be trouble-free, correct?

Absolutely. Just clean it out real good with HOT soapy water after you fire it, dry it real good and apply a light coat of a good gun oil. You'll be fine.

HotGuns · « **Reply #8 on:** May 07, 2005, 05:35:31 PM »

You could WAX it. Its a trick that I learned many years ago that works great on guns.

I used a cood paste waz on mine and its been holding up pretty well. Let the wax dry and then take a cotton rag and polish it off. Its selas the metal and makes its pretty much rust free.

mortarnoobie · « **Reply #9 on:** May 08, 2005, 08:21:56 AM »

how about that zero-rust stuff?

CAV Trooper · « **Reply #10 on:** May 08, 2005, 03:40:01 PM »

Quote from: mortarnoobie

how about that zero-rust stuff?

SHould probably work fine. If that's what you want to use, get a spray can or two and go for it.

Just remember that this stuff is only for the outside of the mortar. Virtualy ANY coating, besides plating, WILL NOT work in the bore. That you'll have to keep oiled when it's not going to be shot for awhile.