Author Topic: Molys in an H&R/NEF (Read 608 times)

lostsniper308 · « **on:** May 26, 2005, 03:18:05 AM »

Any one tried moly or other coated bullets in thier rifles?

cheatermk3 · « **Reply #1 on:** May 26, 2005, 04:17:21 AM »

When I bought my Hornet(used) I got a box of Winchester 34 grain black box ammo with it. It took most of the box to settle down but the last 15 or so rounds shot very good.

Then it took me quite a while to clean the moly out of the barrel.

Mac11700 · « **Reply #2 on:** May 26, 2005, 04:47:12 AM »

I've used the Winchester Supreme factory ammo in the 30-06 Ultra...the 270 Ultra...the 25-06 Ultra...and the 243 Ultra..and reloaded the Combined technology black bullet for the same with outstanding results...it's usually the first ammo I will buy to use...

Here's my 25-06 group and the first shots fired thru it...

My 243 Ultra barrel...it has shown some real potintial. the first group fired thru it with the factory Winchester Supreme 55 grain varmint load...the next pictures are..4 different powder loads with the 95 grain CT Ballistic Silver tip

My first 30-06 Ultra Comp...and the factory Winchester Supreme 165 grain load...I later sold the whole rifle to Quickdtoo...

Sorry I don't have find any pictures saved for the 270 Ultra Comp...but I'll keep looking

So...the potintial atleast for the lubalux coating Winchester/Nosler puts on the CT bullet works rather well...and I wound recomend trying either the factory offerings...or at least pickup a box of the bullets and try them out...

Mac

DakotaElkSlayer · « **Reply #3 on:** May 26, 2005, 05:04:57 AM »

Yup, shot the moly-coated Hornady Light Mags out of my .280. Shoots extremely well, but plan on hunting with a dirty barrel if you use them. My first shot out of a clean barrel was always around 6" off the proper point of impact. By the time you get to the third or forth shot, she was right in there.

Jim

lostsniper308 · « **Reply #4 on:** May 26, 2005, 05:14:49 AM »

So would y'all say accuracy improved from regular bullets and/or the fouling was reduced or increased?

Mac11700 · « **Reply #5 on:** May 26, 2005, 05:24:39 AM »

At least from what I've seen so-far...the accuracy is much better...as to the fouling ...if you want to have a pefectly clean bore after shooting...then I wouldn't recommend you shooting these...they do leave a coating in the barrel...

My next purchase will be some of this...http://www.graybeardoutdoors.com/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=63694

I plan on treating my barrels with it and seeing how well it preforms as to cleaning...it's not like shooting moly coated bullets...but from the testimonials ...it looks like it works pretty good...and if cleaning is easier and this stuff really seals the barrel as said...then what comes off the black CT bullets should come out fairly easy and shouldn't be a problem....Either way...I'm sold on the Combined Technology bullets...and I know others who have had real good luck with the coated failsafes as well...I haven't gotten around to trying them yet...but have plans to...same for the coated Accu-Bonds...

Mac

cheatermk3 · « **Reply #6 on:** May 26, 2005, 06:22:43 AM »

Guys, I've read that there are "issues" around the moly coating of bores, and use of moly-coated bullets, specifically in regard to moisture; that the moly coating somehow(I'm paraphrasing from memory here) is detrimental to the bore in wet/humid climates. That corrosion resulting from this interaction is greater or accelerated compared to non-moly coated bores.

Anyone have any info on this aspect?

Mac11700 · « **Reply #7 on:** May 26, 2005, 08:30:25 AM »

Quote

Moly-Disulfide (MoS2) is a dry film product. It is a salt that creates a loose bond of sliding upon itself "bond". The sulfur etches into the metal surface, though. As a result, the metal surface is dimensionally changed and "worn down" by the treatment. After many treatments of Moly-Disulfide treatment, major changes have been recorded. Even technical grade, in the presence of oxygen, at 300 degrees C (560 F) the Molybdenum component oxidizes to MO3, leaving three atoms of what would be elemental Sulfur to now become sulfuric acid, if in the presence of water (MOISTURE).

That would be for a pure moly coating...the Lubalux doesn't have the same properties from what Nosler told me...and the on the moly fusion product...read what they have to say what it isn't...

http://www.shootersolutions.com/whatmfisnot.html

This is one of the main reasons I planning on trying their product...

Mac

lostsniper308 · « **Reply #8 on:** May 26, 2005, 12:35:42 PM »

so Lubalox is different from Moly coated right.

Mac11700 · « **Reply #9 on:** May 26, 2005, 02:12:50 PM »

This from Noslers web site...

Quote

Are Lubalox and Moly the same?

NO, Lubalox (CT Ballistic Tip) is an oxide-based coating, which reduces fouling and allows more shooting between cleanings, also Lubalox does not buildup in the barrel and requires only normal cleaning procedures. Moly (CT Fail Safe & Partition Gold) is a molybdenum disulfide coating which reduces fouling and friction. Moly requires a barrel be conditioned by shooting several rounds after cleaning and special cleaning procedures. Accuracy with non-coated bullets may not be up to par in a Moly conditioned barrel.

So...at least in the Ballistic Silver tips it isn't...I do know that it does take a better scrubbing to get all of the black out of it....and also...don't shoot the blue coated Barnes on top of the black lubalox...it really plays heck with your groups...and is a real pain to get all of both of them out of the barrel afterwards...been there... done that...won't go there again :oops:

Mac

safetysheriff · « **Reply #10 on:** May 27, 2005, 01:38:55 PM »

the last i knew they were skeptical about shooting moly' in a couple of the posts on one sight where Boots Obermeyer had an article or two.

they say that when the barrel goes 'sour' it shoots patterns instead of groups, and it can't be reversed.

I put Valvoline Extreme Pressure grease into my barrels for a couple weeks before firing them, and during the Winter when I put them away. It seems to put a stop to rusting, etches its way into the metal, and doesn't present the problems from "technical-grade" moly' that is used on many/most(?) projectiles.

I just did some Excellent shooting with a Rem' M-700 in .30-06 at 100 yds in a barrel that was lubed up generously (over the Winter) with that Valvoine I spoke of above. I clean out the grease thoroughly and the rifle is ready to go. It has been reported that moly' in a grease is different from the moly' they use to coat most projectiles......since the grease allows the moly' to migrate/etch its way into the barrel steel.

i've studied it and have decided to stay away from moly'd projectiles.

lostsniper308 · « **Reply #11 on:** May 28, 2005, 03:41:34 PM »

Well i don't think i'll need molys. I took my trial loads today and it really likes 43gr of Varget within a Nosler Ballistic Tip 165gr, probably switch to CCI primers and try Varmint bullets from...sierra i think they have it, either that or it was Nosler too.