Author Topic: Taking the lever screw out of a shotgun--how?  (Read 746 times)

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Offline Cheyenne Ranger

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Taking the lever screw out of a shotgun--how?
« on: July 20, 2005, 05:54:02 PM »
Starting to work on my "practice" shotgun.  This was the one I bought and it turned out to be less than expected :(   but then you get what you pay for.

In trying to tear it down to smooth out the rough edges I can't figure out how to get the lever screw out.  It's the one on top that holds the lever that opens the barrels.

I wrote to Coyote Cap and his reply was, "Why would you want to? which wasn't much help.

So, anyone out there know the secret?  I broke two gunsmithing screw driver bits and nothing moved.

thanks
Cheyenne
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Offline leverfan

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Taking the lever screw out of a shotgun--ho
« Reply #1 on: July 21, 2005, 04:55:47 PM »
CR-

Which model is it?  If it's in my copy of Gunsmithing Guns of the Old West or the NRA Guidebook to Shoulder Arms, I can email you the complete take down instructions and pictures.  I haven't tried it on my Stoeger, so I don't know the process first hand.

I'm going to be without a computer for a couple of days, but I'll check back here on Sunday or Monday, to see if I can help out.
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Offline Cheyenne Ranger

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Taking the lever screw out of a shotgun--ho
« Reply #2 on: July 24, 2005, 09:25:41 AM »
All I know is that it is a STAR made out of Spain.  Very rough but I bought it to try to learn some gunsmithing skills on it.  I just wanted to be able to get the lever off and do some smoothing on the big block below that.  

It has removable side plates and generally is like almost every other SxS I've seen.  

Whatever you can tell me in general would be appreciated.

thanks
Cheyenne
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Offline Cheyenne Ranger

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Taking the lever screw out of a shotgun--ho
« Reply #3 on: July 25, 2005, 01:52:31 PM »
I guess with Cap out of the country his business is helping out now.  I emailed with the question (again) and this time Jody called right back, his nickle.
Gave me to the gunsmith that works on side x sides and he explaned it to me.  Basically they are a bear to get out and good luck.  He even messes some up now and then and he's the expert.

So every so often good things just jump out of the blue.

cr

now to go beat out the screw--I'll let you know how it goes...
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Offline Cheyenne Ranger

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Taking the lever screw out of a shotgun--ho
« Reply #4 on: July 25, 2005, 06:06:13 PM »
Got it out!  Took a torch and an impact driver but it's apart.  The screw is a gonner but I can get another one so now to the smoothing out and lightening the leaf springs.


cr
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Offline leverfan

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Taking the lever screw out of a shotgun--ho
« Reply #5 on: July 25, 2005, 06:16:26 PM »
CR-

I guess I'm late, and it doesn't sound much like the actions I have instructions for, anyway.  The NRA guide covers the old L.C. Smith, and, while you might wish you had about 4 or 5 hands, you don't need a torch or an impact wrench.  The Gunsmithing book covers the Colt '83, EMF Hartford (German version), and the Stevens 311 for doubles.  If anyone else is wondering out there, it also has sections on the Spencer slide action, as well as the Winchester '87 and '97 designs.
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Offline Cheyenne Ranger

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Taking the lever screw out of a shotgun--ho
« Reply #6 on: July 26, 2005, 01:26:41 PM »
seems the screw is a 4mm x .7 metric.  Guess I'm on another Grand Quest for it.  Start with Brownells and go from there.

cr
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Offline Lazarus Longshot

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Taking the lever screw out of a shotgun--ho
« Reply #7 on: July 26, 2005, 02:03:13 PM »
Quote from: Çheyenne Ranger
Got it out!  Took a torch and an impact driver but it's apart.  cr


Cheyenne, whadja do? BURN off the stock??? :-D

I thought you were gonna stay away from dangerous tools!!!!!
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Offline Cheyenne Ranger

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Taking the lever screw out of a shotgun--ho
« Reply #8 on: July 26, 2005, 05:52:22 PM »
This time Violett reminded me to remove it before I started :grin:

I'll be looking for a replacment screw but the rest of this project is going ahead, slowly but forward.

I'm about a week from being finished with the stock (remember, buff with 0000 steel wool and put on a light coat of Tru-Oil, let dry)  takes about 5 minutes to do then it does its own thing while drying.

Going to start with to smoothing out of the metal parts.  Rough is too nice a word for what's inside of it.

But it does keep me off the streets,

cr
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SBSS #1170--OGB