Author Topic: Consistent coloring  (Read 1296 times)

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Offline DropLikeFlies

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Consistent coloring
« on: March 29, 2005, 01:29:22 PM »
Folks,
I've been making knife sheaths and holsters for myself and buddies and the majority end up black because I have a heck of a time getting even color with dye.

I use Feibings leather dye on veg tanned leather that is damp enough to tool.  The wool daubers don't work well in my opinion.  A girl at the local Tandy suggested mixing neetsfoot oil with the dye then applying which helped, but not much.

I've heard that dipping the entire piece will dry out the leather excessively.

In addition, how can I keep the inside of the holster smoother.  It seems so rough after completion and I worry about wearing of the finish of my pistols.

Thanks
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Offline Third_Rail

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Consistent coloring
« Reply #1 on: May 21, 2005, 07:31:34 AM »
I too wonder about how to get a nice consistent color when trying to dye leather.... are you using oil tanned or veg. tanned leather, though? I think Fiebings only works with veg. tanned.

Offline Will52100

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Consistent coloring
« Reply #2 on: June 14, 2005, 07:13:13 PM »
I have some trouble with black and real dark colors, but what works pretty well for me is to make sure the leather is dry.  Use the dobber and apply even strokes, overlapping will make it streak, or you can simply soak the whole sheath in dye.  As for the rough inside of a holster, only way I know to cure it is to line it with pigskin or doe skin.
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Offline corbanzo

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Consistent coloring
« Reply #3 on: March 06, 2006, 10:29:00 AM »
One thing I've found helps is to apply dies or oils with a sponge, that way you can control the amount you get.  I just use a normal everyday dish sponge to do it.  I dont dye a lot... but when I do, I mix the die with mink oil.  Doesn't give you vibrant colors that way, but vibrant colors isn't what I'm going for.
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Offline Rickk

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Consistent coloring
« Reply #4 on: April 30, 2006, 03:46:58 AM »
Some leather has a waxy surface on it when you get it.

Fiebings Dye Prep will clean the surface, remove the wax, and break down the surface so that it will absorb the dye better. Rub it down well with the die prep on a paper towel and then start dying while it is still wet with dye prep.

Also, if you dilute your dye with denatured alcohol, it will go on lighter and penetrate better. It may be too light with one coat, so you just put on additional coats untill it is the color you wnat. Remember that it will darken when you apply oil later anyway.

I do work with just about any color, including red, blue, and even white. I know what you are saying about them all coming out black. Mine used to as well, untill I started deluting it about 50-50 with the alcohol. The dye prep I usually only use on either really light colors, or hides that have an obvious and uncooperative waxy surface.

There are some hides that don't even want to take black well. The dye prep and multiple coats of alcohol diluted dye will make it penetrate well.

With too much alchohol, you may get a little bit of leather drying. Neatsfoot oil will take care of that quickly.