Author Topic: "Build Your Own 1911" Kits From Sarco??? (Read 7862 times)

catblaster.375 · « **on:** March 06, 2005, 05:12:08 PM »

Anyone had expirience with one of these kits? I LOVE putting things together for my self and can't afford to buy a nice new 1911. I love the original Government G.I. style models( the way a 1911 should be). Is this the right thing to do for my first 1911?

Thanks a lot

Iowegan · « **Reply #1 on:** March 06, 2005, 07:07:13 PM »

Actually, they're not bad guns. You learn a lot by building it yourself and have a platform where you can do some custom work later.

catblaster.375 · « **Reply #2 on:** March 06, 2005, 09:04:34 PM »

thaks a ton
I think I will go for it
Anyone else have an opinion?

vinconco · « **Reply #3 on:** March 07, 2005, 12:57:39 AM »

Kit guns is how I started with the 1911. Great learning tool. The most dangerous thing is when you are learning how to fit the trigger parts. These guns can go full auto and if they do when you are not expecting it and have a loose grip (like shooting off a rest or improper hold) the muzzle can rotate and get ya. So while doing trigger work and test firing always load only 2 or 3 rounds because its the 4th or 5th round that will get you. Happened to me but luckily it jammed on the 4th round.... a real eye opener :shock:

tbull55 · « **Reply #4 on:** March 07, 2005, 03:33:11 AM »

catblaste.357,
Sounds pretty neat, what is the website for this kit gun? Does it come with frame, slide, and everything? About how much does it run?

Thanks for any info!

Tbull55

catblaster.375 · « **Reply #5 on:** March 07, 2005, 04:13:42 AM »

tbull 55,

It is called Sarco inc. They have a website. Also have great ad in the Shotgun News.

Kit comes with everything but frame for $179, they also sell frames for $89 but they must be shipped through a FFL.

tbull55 · « **Reply #6 on:** March 07, 2005, 06:23:00 AM »

catblaster .375,
Thanks for the info. I think I might give this a try!! Do you have any idea if it comes with good instructions? Where on the site should I look. I gave the site a quick glance and nothing stood out to me, is it kind of hidden?

Tbull55

RedRyder21 · « **Reply #7 on:** July 11, 2005, 10:43:04 AM »

Anyone have anymore experince putting these together?

Difficuly? How long does it take once you sit down with all the needed tools in front of you?

Mikey · « **Reply #8 on:** July 12, 2005, 02:31:02 AM »

RedRyder21 - I put together a 'kit gun' a number of years ago. It was an Essex frame that needed finishing with Colt parts I had laying around. The frame took some work to get the 'upper parts' to fit and function and then took some stoning and smoothing to 'come together' so to speak.

But, when it was all done it worked and worked well. I used it for a silhouette pistol for a number of years until I traded it for a Gold Cup. HTH. Mikey.

MGMorden · « **Reply #9 on:** July 17, 2005, 01:43:42 PM »

I'm thinking about going the same route. I too tend to be very much into building stuff (heck I'm working on building a kit airplane :lol:) and the price does seem right for these. I've done some repairs and modifications on other guns in my collection, so I think with some patience I could get it together.

After I finish up I should be in a good position to replace any desired parts with better versions. I already know that I want a skeletonized trigger and an ambidextrous mag release.

MGMorden · « **Reply #10 on:** July 17, 2005, 01:46:32 PM »

Quote from: tbull55

catblaster .375,
Thanks for the info. I think I might give this a try!! Do you have any idea if it comes with good instructions? Where on the site should I look. I gave the site a quick glance and nothing stood out to me, is it kind of hidden?

Tbull55

Their regular website is layed out very poorly. If you want to see their inventory download the PDF files of their Shotgun News ads. That's the only way I've been able to find certain items.

tbull55 · « **Reply #11 on:** July 18, 2005, 08:08:02 AM »

Does anyone know where to get a reasonbly priced frame? I know it takes an FFL to get one, but I haven't been able to find very many. The frames I found, I believe a little machining work was still needed or they were $300.00 to $600.00.

Tbull

MGMorden · « **Reply #12 on:** July 18, 2005, 11:03:36 AM »

Quote from: tbull55

Does anyone know where to get a reasonbly priced frame? I know it takes an FFL to get one, but I haven't been able to find very many. The frames I found, I believe a little machining work was still needed or they were $300.00 to $600.00.

Tbull

I just ordered one from Centerfire Systems. I did the purchase through Gunbroker and and they seem to list them on there pretty regularly. $90 + $10 shipping. They're new parkerized frames made by Double Star which IIRC is based in KS, USA. I'll give a full report on frame quality once I finish, though that might be a month or two away. I'm planning on picking up the full parts kit from Sarco just to make sure that I get everything required, and then going to buying any specific/special replacement parts I want from MidwayUSA.

tbull55 · « **Reply #13 on:** July 19, 2005, 05:52:05 AM »

Sounds good, thanks for the info!!!! :grin:
Tbull

Ray P · « **Reply #14 on:** August 06, 2005, 05:19:33 AM »

The biggest help in putting my frame together years ago was Kuhnhausen's book: Colt .45 Automatic: A Shop Manual.

It is also *VERY* handy when approaching repairs such as ejector and detent housing replacement. Even though the original pistol I put together is long gone through trade, the book is still here.

MGMorden · « **Reply #15 on:** August 06, 2005, 06:18:39 PM »

Well, I'm a little ways into building mine. I got a few parts from Sarco, but ended up buying most stuff from Brownells. I have to say that so far it's been educational, but I don't think it's something I'd do again.

Almost everything needs some filing and sanding somewhere to go on right. I also decided to use a beavertail safety instead of the GI one, and though it's installed now and working perfectly, I dont think it was work the effort :lol:. Only part left that needs to be fit is the thumb safety. I messed up my first one so another is on the way.

BTW, does anyone have a solution for loose pin fitting? I've got a few pins that seem to be falling out under gravity :shock:. It's got to be either oversized holes or undersized pins. I'm inclined to think it's the pins (Wilson Combat) since I've had them fall out of multiple parts from multiple vendors. I've got another set of pins (Cylinder and Slide) on the way that I'm hoping will work better, but if not, I'm going to have to find some way to keep them from falling out. Would moly coating them help any?

1911crazy · « **Reply #16 on:** August 08, 2005, 08:31:05 AM »

Did you call the manufacturer?? I would ask him were to get the right size stuff for his frame. Maybe he makes a heavy duty over sized pin for his frame?

I have the upper new slide kit already and now i might just buy the Essex frame made in Vermont. I know the frame rails are oversized so they need special attention to fitting them properly to be accurate. I just did a barrel bushing to the slide fit so i know how to do that already. I'm almost ready to just sit, get a really big cup of coffee and file, hone, stone and fit all the parts to make the most accurate 45acp that i could possibly make.

MGMorden · « **Reply #17 on:** August 08, 2005, 05:00:42 PM »

Quote from: BigBill

Did you call the manufacturer?? I would ask him were to get the right size stuff for his frame. Maybe he makes a heavy duty over sized pin for his frame?

Actually, in the end all the parts that had loose pins either had something covering it or spring pressure holding it in. Too many years of building models had me test fitting incomplete parts

.

The only exception was the plunger tube, which I ended up having to flatten out the stakes a bit with some needle-nose pliers before they'd grip well.

I did manage to finish up the gun tonight though

. I've been working on it for a little less than a week now. I haven't actually fired it yet (I can't get to the shooting range until the weekend), but all my non-firing tests currently show everything to be working well. Pics below. I think I ended up putting around $450 into it total.

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1911crazy · « **Reply #18 on:** August 09, 2005, 12:47:48 AM »

Nice!!!!! She looks good!!! Let us know how she shoots!!!!!

Did you have to fit the slide to the frame? It sounds like it went pretty easy.

MGMorden · « **Reply #19 on:** August 09, 2005, 01:54:01 AM »

Quote from: BigBill

Did you have to fit the slide to the frame? It sounds like it went pretty easy.

Very minor fitting was required there. The slide would go on with some force, but it was too tight. Just a swipe or two on the rails with some sand paper had it going great.

Overall it wasn't too bad. The grip safety took by far the most time. The thumb safety second behind that. The majority of the parts required a little "tweak" here or there, but no major work.

The Mechanic · « **Reply #20 on:** August 15, 2005, 06:43:04 AM »

The really nice thing about your pistol is it doesn't have a bunch of cautionary statements and other junk stamp on the slide. Very nice looking.

1911crazy · « **Reply #21 on:** August 15, 2005, 10:59:24 PM »

Did you do any accuracy work yet? Like change the barrel bushing and install the full length guide rod with 18lb spring? I just installed the national match barrel bushing in my norinco and it should make a world of difference in the accuracy because the orginal bushing was so loose in the slide besides the play in the barrel. It would be great if you did nothing yet then you could see the difference it makes when you do change it over. I notice you put in some after market stuff already and i like the double dove tail slots on the slide too. What sights did you use? The build kit idea is looking better all the time now if you want accuracy. I have a slide kit already to work on with another national match barrel bushing. I notice on this one everything is tight so i guess i got lucky on my norinco the bushing did fit the barrel properly but it needed fitting to the slide. Now it just turns in with the bushing wrench its just a tad snug the way it should be, it was really loose before and it seems to be ok when I cycle it so its good to go on my next test for accuracy. I have been thinking of going with another after market barrel too but i'm going to try the no frills barrel first. I'm not sure how tight the slide can be fitted to the frame too. I know all 45's have that rattle but if you want accuracy the frame to slide fit has to be closer if the gun is to be shooting more accurate it has to shoot constant too.

MGMorden · « **Reply #22 on:** August 16, 2005, 04:37:21 PM »

No accuracy work yet. I took it to the range on Sunday but it's having feeding problems. Every 3 or 4 rounds I was having a FTF. Ended up putting it away after about 20 rounds or so. With the few shots I got off though, I was keeping most of my shots inside 2.5" or so at 15 yards, which is better than any of my other pistols. I think I just need to tune the extractor a bit. It seems like the round isn't properly pushing up into the extractor so it's held down too low as it's being fed. As a result the nose pops up and jams against the top of the chamber. I just haven't had time yet (deer season came in yesterday here

).

As to current setup, I believe that the sight dovetails are for Novak-style sights, but for now I'm using the set that was included with the slide (and I have to say, these slides are a great deal from Sarco. $89.95 with with the double dovetail, actual blued finish, front serrations, and sights). If you're not buying the kit where you get the discount, they seem to be a deal for only $5 over the standard GI slide they sell.

Bushing fit is very snug. I have to use a bushing wrench to remove it. Frame to slide fit is great. It's got just a tiny bit of play when it's test fit, but with the recoil spring installed it won't budge.

Overall it's been a fun project (and I'm still not finished). I'm reconsidering what I said about not doing it again though :-). If I do another I'll either go the full-GI route or an all-match component stainless config (probably in .400 Cor-Bon).

1911crazy · « **Reply #23 on:** August 17, 2005, 06:10:14 AM »

I had a feeling you would change your mind about doing another one, I knew these will be habit forming once you did one and seen the results. I was thinking a 45acp first, then a 9mm second and then maybe a 357SIG in stainless to carry(CCW). That would it for me for 1911's.

Mikey · « **Reply #24 on:** August 18, 2005, 01:33:48 AM »

MG - that is a pretty good looking eye-catcher you put together - pretty darn good for your first try, congradulations.

On your FTF - you may need more range time to break the parts into functioning properly together. Your FTF may also be magazine related.

Change the mag and go back to the range. If she still FTFs and has the same problem as before then you may have to re-tension (bend it a bit to ease up the tension) your extractor. Some fellas work down or polish the outside of the extractor a bit - this is the raised part that sits on the out-side (opposite side of the extractor claw), or just get another extractor.

I would first go back to the range with a different magazine and try that first. Man, that piece looks too good not to work properly. HTH. Mikey.