Author Topic: GP 100 Problem (Read 1671 times)

rybo · « **on:** April 05, 2005, 05:06:25 AM »

Ok here's the deal. I have a gp-100 that is having a sticking problem in the DA mode. About a 1/4" into the trigger pull, it "catches" inside before it breaks and continues on. I believe it is the hammer catching on something because there is no sticking with it removed. It never did this when I first got it. Would just replacing the main trigger spring fix this, or would I be better served by taking it to a smith who can maybe figure out what's catching in there, and take care of it? Thanks

bigdaddytacp · « **Reply #1 on:** April 07, 2005, 05:47:28 PM »

Quote from: rybo

Ok here's the deal. I have a gp-100 that is having a sticking problem in the DA mode. About a 1/4" into the trigger pull, it "catches" inside before it breaks and continues on. I believe it is the hammer catching on something because there is no sticking with it removed. It never did this when I first got it. Would just replacing the main trigger spring fix this, or would I be better served by taking it to a smith who can maybe figure out what's catching in there, and take care of it? Thanks

I would take it to a gunsmith.....the mainspring seldom gives trouble on the guns and unless you got a rare bad one that has warped/broken then a new spring won't help......a peice of crud or burr on the mainspring shaft is more likely.......I dealt mainly with S/Ws and seldom got to tinker with Ruger da revolvers so I don't know many of their cronic problems which are few and far between anyway......good luck and good shooting!!

Iowegan · « **Reply #2 on:** April 10, 2005, 06:42:42 PM »

The situation you described is likely a timing issue. It's very easy to check, just watch the cylinder latch while you pull the trigger. The latch should totally disconnect from the slot in the cylinder before the cylinder begins to rotate. Note: the cylinder latch can be found between the bottom of the cylinder and the lower frame on the right side. See the schematic for a reference: http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/schematics/schemmfg.aspx?schemid=19&m=13&mn=Ruger%c2%ae&model=GP100+#6

If the cylinder latch doesn't quite drop down soon enough, it will cause the exact problem you described.

I suspect either the cylinder latch or the trigger plunger or both are kaput. Part #6 and 48 in the schematic. If someone did an action job on the gun, they might have taken too much metal off either or both parts.

The hammer's DA sear (called a hammer dog, P/N 64 in the schematic) can also cause DA to stick. When you pull the hammer out, this part should move freely and have spring tension that pushes the bottom of the dog forward. Inspect it for burrs or sharp edges too.

Hope this helps.

rybo · « **Reply #3 on:** May 25, 2005, 01:57:08 PM »

The latch does disengage and allows the cylinder to spin freely. I think it may be that second suggestion with not enough spring tension that pushes the dog forward. I need to do some further disassembly. Thanks

kjg · « **Reply #4 on:** June 03, 2005, 03:46:37 AM »

In stead of seeking a smith call ruger and tell them your problem they have a no b.s. warentee on them I'd let them work it. kjg

jro45 · « **Reply #5 on:** June 25, 2005, 11:21:35 AM »

Yea let Ruger have to fix. It has a life time warrenty on it. Ruger gives good service too!

timothy · « **Reply #6 on:** August 30, 2005, 07:13:27 AM »

It sounds like the transfer bar is getting hung up on the firing pin as it rises. Polish both these parts and the front of the cylinder. Make sure the front of the cylinder is bone dry while shooting if there is oil on it and you have a tight cylinder gap firing a few round rounds can restict its movement after burning powder and oil together.