Author Topic: Husqvarna Rolling Block (Read 1818 times)

JCP · « **on:** June 03, 2005, 09:00:25 AM »

Does anyone know anything about the Husqvarna 12 GA. rolling block action? Are they good to build a BPCR on? Any info would be appreciated

marlinman93 · « **Reply #1 on:** June 03, 2005, 02:50:31 PM »

The Husky Rolling Blocks are as good as the early #1 Remingtons. They're all older receivers, but as long as you're planning on using them with traditional old style cartridges, they'll hold up great.
The only concern I would have, would be the same as any Roller; just make sure the action is not sloppy. If it's in good shape, I'd use it for a BPCR.

JCP · « **Reply #2 on:** June 03, 2005, 02:55:20 PM »

Thanks Marlinman,
It's hard to belive you can get a 12 ga. shell into these things when some have trouble with a long 50 ca. cartridge. I guess the old shotgun shells were very short. Couldn't be much metal left in the thread area either.

I ordered one from Sarco today, hope it's in good shape.

ssdave · « **Reply #3 on:** June 04, 2005, 05:30:37 PM »

The husqvarna rolling block shotguns are one of the best rolling block actions to build a BPCR on. They are not converted military, but are a swedish modified design originally manufactured for the purpose.

They will feed any cartridge possible for use in a rolling block. It is a lot of work to modify a #1 or #5 to feed a .50-110. (I know, I do this conversion). The Husky will feed a .50-110 with no modification.

I typically have about 20 #1 or #5 actions in my shop to choose from for projects. If this tells you anything, two of my personal use rifles are Husky's: my primary use 45-90 and my long range .50-110. I prefer this action to the #5, which is commonly considered the best of the RB actions.

If the action pins have an "H" stamped on the end of them, you have got the best of the Husqvarna actions. This denotes a late model, smokeless rolling block, intended for and proofed for modern nitro shells. The H stands for Hardened, not Husqvarna. The steel in the receiver is correspondingly hardened.

Only potential problem with the shotgun action is the firing pin is large. Since I only shoot blackpowder in mine, I don't worry about it. But, if you will shoot higher pressure cartridges, it is a good idea to weld up the firing pin hole and redrill it for a smaller diameter pin.

Good luck,
dave

JCP · « **Reply #4 on:** June 05, 2005, 12:14:01 PM »

Thanks ssdave, you've took a load off my mind.
I will probably build a 50/70 or 50/110 on this frame. I should get it this week. Thanks again for the info.

Jack

Dai.S.Loe · « **Reply #5 on:** October 29, 2005, 05:58:28 PM »

I was given one of these actions at a shoot 2 months ago.

No finish on it at all but it looked and felt great.

I took it to a gunsmith and he pronounced it OK to rebarrel.

I received it back last Friday.

It is now sitting in front of me. It has a Badger full octagonal 34" barrel.

Reamed for 45-70. Headspaced. Dovetail cut for frontsight and tang tapped for the Soule sight.

The 'smith did a little work on the trigger and now it breaks at a very crisp 2 1/2 lbs.

I just received an e-mail letting me know that the Soule rear sight and the tunnel foresight are being posted to me tomorrow.

I've arranged for a stock and forearm to be ordered from the US for the rifle. Should arrive in 2-3 weeks.

The only thing I am missing is the piece of metal that dovetails to the underside of the barrel to which the forearm is screwed.

If any one out there has such an item they do not require please could they get in touch with me. Or knows where it may be obtained.

Once I have all the parts I will commence the final finishing.

I plan on "browning " the barrel. The action I am going to leave alone. Its lasted over 100 years as it is and out of respect for it I will not "tart" it up.

The woodwork is unfinished so I plan on giving it an "old English" oil finish. Takes a lot of time but looks really fine once done.

I have worked out that all together the "rebuild" of this original action, will cost me about $1200 New Zealand (US$900), I could have bought an Italian replica for about $2000NZ but to me it wouldnt have the soul that this fine old action has. My first custom but the experience has left me wanting to do more of this in the future. I would love to learn how to do more of the farmed out work myself.

To the person who started this thread I can only say that going by my own personal experience that he should go for it. Immensely satisfying and well worth the work.

Dai.S.Loe (Chris)

marlinman93 · « **Reply #6 on:** October 29, 2005, 07:37:48 PM »

Chris,
Thanks for the great story on your Roller rebuild. It's nice to find a complete original gun, but there's something about building one up to suit our individual needs that is very rewarding too!
I've done only two, but they are both very special guns to me. One is a Marlin Ballard #4 in .45-70, and the other a Remington Hepburn #3 also in .45-70. Both were just complete receivers when I started, no barrels, and no wood.

Brithunter · « **Reply #7 on:** October 30, 2005, 01:22:43 AM »

Hi All,

I think you will find that the original 12 bore cartridge was 2" long they then improved it and made it 2 1/2" long later further improvements brought about the 2 3/4" shell. Now of course we have 3 1/2" magnums :roll: I wonder where the game is getting it's kevlar from? :cry:

marlinman93 · « **Reply #8 on:** October 30, 2005, 03:07:23 PM »

Good question Brithunter! Seems what our grandfathers did with the old cartridges can no longer be done without a super magnum or other. I've taken a lot of birds with my old Win. chambered for 2 3/4", and my old rifles in weak, slow calibers.