Grapeshot Charge for 44mm cannon

[Hendo]

:grin: Now that I have sorted the sponger, rammer and worm roblem out
has anyone any idea on a grapeshot charge using say .30cal lead balls.
I hear that adding a wad over the powder charge and then lead balls contained in a muslim bag should work. I need to know a safe load for a given weight of charge and what to use as a wad plus anything else
you folks may suggest.

It could be the ultimate high flying duck load?

[Cat Whisperer]

:grin: Now that I have sorted the sponger, rammer and worm roblem out
has anyone any idea on a grapeshot charge using say .30cal lead balls.
I hear that adding a wad over the powder charge and then lead balls contained in a muslim bag should work. I need to know a safe load for a given weight of charge and what to use as a wad plus anything else
you folks may suggest.

It could be the ultimate high flying duck load?

When you have the cannon designed - from that determine the load.  You're looking at metal used, powder chamber, thickness of metal, contour (rounded or sharp corners inside the bore) where and how the trunions are attached, weight of the load, clearances (windage) and so forth.  From ALL of those determine type and amount of powder.


I know a fellow here that claims to have used a mortar for duck hunting - said something about two boat loads full.  I'm not sure that I fully believe him, but it was a good story.

[GGaskill]

Grape shot is a small number of large balls; 20 mm would be good for a 44 mm bore.   Three layers of three shot is the usual amount.  Canister (many small shot) is loaded in a sheet metal can which breaks up upon firing.  You need something that will break up easily but have more air resistance than the shot so it doesn't blow the shot pattern.  Think of a 44 mm plastic shotgun wad.

[Cat Whisperer]

Grape shot is a small number of large balls; 20 mm would be good for a 44 mm bore.   Three layers of three shot is the usual amount.  Canister (many small shot) is loaded in a sheet metal can which breaks up upon firing.  You need something that will break up easily but have more air resistance than the shot so it doesn't blow the shot pattern.  Think of a 44 mm plastic shotgun wad.

Today's ultra-thin beer cans are just the right material!  You could have a wooden base and a one + wrap of aluminum cut from the modern can to make a sleeve.

[Will Bison]

I found that 28 balls layed in four layers of seven balls works great. The total weight comes out just a tiny bit more than a single cannon ball. In my case the cannon ball weighs 20 ounces and 28 pieces of grape shot weighs 21 ounces, close enough.

As with the powder charge, I fashion an aluminium foil cylinder, drop in each layer of balls and twist the top shut. This gives you a sort of bastard load, it ain't true grape and it ain't true cannister.

You will probably want a sabot between the powder and shot. I use an adjustable hole saw and cut them out of scrap plywood. The sabot should be as tall as the bore diameter. In your case about 44mm tall give or take, it's not real critical. Primarily the sabot keeps the expanding gas from blowing through the shot load.

If you should opt for smaller size shot, the method is pretty much the same. Pour in shot about equal to the weight of a round cannon ball.

Some fun targets can be made from scrap sheet rock/drywall. I cut it to about 2' by 6' and stand several pieces out at various ranges to simulate troops in the open.

I use the same powder charge as with a single cannon ball.

Have fun.

Bill