stock modification,what do you think?

[NONYA]

How many of you have removed the two pressure points in the stock that rest on barrel?I have heard that if you remove them it makes it a true floating barrel and will improve your accuracy,I have already bedded and filled the rear of my stock,will removing these points make the barrel more stable during firing?

[beemanbeme]

that's one of those "how long is a piece of string" questions.  You won't know until you try it.  Sad, but if you find the pressure points did make it shoot better, they're a lot harder to put back than remove.  
Perhaps you can try this:  Make up some washers from biz cards or pop cans and put them on the action screws between the stock and the action.  Put enough on that the barrel is lifted clear of the pressure points. (do the dollar bill trick to make sure the barrel isn't touching)  You have in effect free floated the barrel.  Before you do this, shoot several witness groups with your rifle as it is now set up.  Then when you shoot several groups with the barrel not touching, you should get a pretty good idea of which way is better.

[Graybeard]

As stated the ONLY way to know is to try it. Personally on lighter weight barrels I do not believe floating is the best way to go. I removed them from my LSS Mtn. Rifle in .30-06 and boy did it mess up things. I put it back as best as I could and it's again a super shooter but I've not removed another since.

We've had several folks post their results removing the Remington factory pressure points and so far I've heard from no one who was happy with the results. Best to leave them.

[Lone Star]

The only time it increased the rifle's accuracy for me was with an M700 VLS with the heavy 26" barrel.  On whippy-thin tubes the upward pressure usually seems to help keep groups small.  

However - free-floating a barrel can make it more consistent, with a wood stock anyway.  If the forend warps when it gets wet, expect the POI to change, maybe a lot.  To me that is the real reason to remove the pressure points rather than to shrink groups.  I've had more than one walnut or birch stock warp enough against a thin barrel to potentially cause a miss.    :cry:

[NONYA]

thanx guys Im gonna leave it alone i have no complaints as it shoots great groups now but I enjoy finding more accuracy through mods i can do myself so I though I would ask those who know. :wink:

[arover2]

Just an idea here.  Instead of removing the pressure points to free float the barrel of a brand new walnut stocked Remington model 700 BDL .30-06 I just purchased a few days ago, what if I just pillar bed the two stock action mounting screws only?
 Has anyone here just done only this, and left the factory stock pressure points as is ?
 And if so, what was your results with any improvment in accuracy?

[Rem725]

I always free-floated my 721's 2's and 5's.  I solid glassed the action and a couple inches on the barrel rear.  I used tape on the barrel to have a mm of space all the way forward, and glassed the full length.  Sometimes the wood would still warp through that mm and push the barrel around.  It was a wood thing only.  For real accuracy, take a mm+ thick shim tuner and slide it different places near the front of the freefloat.  

Some stocks would spend the summer warped to the left and the winter warped to the right.  Or vice versa.

[NONYA]

Removed the pressure points,tunneled out the stock to float the barrel and glass bedded about 4" of the barrel,went up this morning and shot a 1 1/2" 5 shot group off of the bipod over the hood,worked for me.Id like to put a target scope on it and shoot it off a bench to see just how well it could shoot,maybe after the season is over.