For a bullet to kill a whitetail ......

[Couger]

In Washington we can only use pure lead projectiles, patched balls of course and conicals, but also saboted-bullets if they are solid lead.

I'm working up a low-cost load for my Knight Wolverine that I believe should be plenty powerful, but wonder what other's opinions might be?

I'm going to use a Hornady .430 caliber lead semi-wadcutter in a Nosler, Harvester or Knight sabot.  The lead bullet weighs 240 grains and is the standard Keith-type shape with a large flat meplat out front.

Should that bullet mushroom okay in a deer, if launched at 1500-1600 feet per second muzzle velocity?  Or should I use the hollow point version of that bullet?

Thanks for your answers and input.    :wink:

[Redhawk1]

A lead power belt. It is not considered a sabot in some States.  

[Couger]

Or should I use the hollow-point version of that bullet?

Thanks for your post Redhawk.

[tscott]

The rifle coach at West Point told me years ago that hollowpoint bullets are more accurate. I have shot 5 whitetail bucks since starting muzzleloading in 2001. All went down on the spot. 295 cj powerbelt.
Shot placement is paramount with any bullet. If I have any question as to the deer dying on the spot, I let him walk! Good luck.....Scotty

[flintlock]

I believe I'd go with the hollow point version because of the lower velocity of (most) muzzleloaders....I'm assuming you plan to cast them yourself...I would also recommend going to a .451-.452 diameter 260 or 310 gr hollowpoint with the black MMP short (standard) sabot....
 
Several years ago I had two buddies that bought their first inlines...one was a Wolverine, they had both bought the Knight lead saboted bullets...one had bought the 260 gr hp the other the 310 hp....I did the sighting in for both of them...used 100grs loose Pyrodex, with percussion caps....both shot very well...In fact, I shot one of my best groups with the 310 gr...five shots that you could cover with a quarter at 100 yards...you might want to try these bullets before you invest in a mold because rifles can be different...btw...they killed deer with both....If you already have the  
.430 mold you spoke of...I'd make up a few and see how they shoot...I'm sure it will kill a deer with good shot placement...
 
With the all lead bullets, I probably wouldn't go over 100 grains of pyrodex because the base tends to obturate and this will affect your accuracy...If you plan shots past 100 yards the saboted bullets will drop less than the PowerBelts because of their higher bc...Good Luck

[Redhawk1]

Or should I use the hollow-point version of that bullet?

Thanks for your post Redhawk.

Couger,
Either one will work. The one with the plastic tip give better penetration over the hollow point.

[Couger]

Plastic tip RH?

I'm using a pure lead Hornady 240 grain semi-wadcutter bullet for the .44 Special/Magnum, in a plastic sabot.  I'm noy planning to use any kind of a Powerbelt bullet

The Hornady .429-.430 LSWC has either a flattened top or hollow-point.



I've seen pictures listed at Cabela's and Cheaper Than Dirt that show solid-lead ballistic tip type bullets that may or or may not use a sabot or power-belt, but I'm not using those.  Haven't even bought any.

What I did was buy a 200 piece box of Hornady bullets and 200 Knight or Nosler sabots.  I probably purchase another 200 piece box of Hornady .430 LSWC's, but in the hollow-point nest time.

[Redhawk1]

Sorry Couger, I thought you were asking about the Power- belts. I thought you were asking about the Aero tips.

[cattleskinner]

Cougar,

If it was me, I would go with the solid point version, and not look back.  Last year I tried TC cheapshot sabots, and won't go with them again.  Granted, alot of people find them plenty for deer, but I don't necessarily agree.  I hit two with them last year, and couldn't recover either.  One entered around the last rib angling forward on a quartering away shot, and the other hit a doe in the shoulder.  I think that with that light of a lead bullet, and being a hollow point, it just expanded too much before it made it to the vitals.  I don't know if the Hornady bullets are cast a bit harder or not, but if it was me, I wouldn't chance it with a hollowpoint.  A buddy of mine harvested a deer with the cheapshots on a behind the shoulder shot, so they did work for us on one instance, as long as they hit the ribs.  At the speed you are driving the bullet, the solid point should expand, and as long as you place it where you need to, it should be meat in the freezer...just one man's opinion.

~~~Amos

[xs pro-comp]

Buffalo Bullets makes a 302gr. HP all lead sabot bullet that shot very well in my wolverine and never failed to cleanly harvest every deer I shot with them and most of the time gave me a complete pass through leaving a blood trail a blind man could follow. 90gr. of pyrodex and a 302gr. lead BB = a dead deer if you do your part.

[Rummer]

Couger,

Given a choice between a hollowpoint or a solid Keith-style Semi-wadcutter; I would go with the hollowpoint.

In my Omega I use a 300 grain .44 Keith Nose Hollow Point over 90 grains loose 777/FFg at an estimated 1650 fps.

I have taken four deer with this load and none have taken a step after being hit.

Deer aren't all that hard to kill so I bet that the solids would work too, if you are set on using them.

Rummer