Author Topic: Trimming brass  (Read 643 times)

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Offline deerman12

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Trimming brass
« on: October 24, 2005, 04:27:06 AM »
I was curious if you guy trim your brass after every shot? Thanks for your answers.

Offline cattleskinner

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Trimming brass
« Reply #1 on: October 24, 2005, 04:35:05 AM »
It depends on what I'm loading.  For .44, or .41 mags....no.  When it's my .223 though, yes.  I figure that the couple extra seconds it takes to put it in the Lee trimmer far outweighs the alternative.

~~~Amos
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Offline Catfish

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Trimming brass
« Reply #2 on: October 24, 2005, 04:46:55 AM »
You need to trim your brass only if it`s longer then the chamber. Most factory chambers are longer than SAMMI specs. but to be safe it is best to trim brass back when it reaches max. SAMMI lenth. Very few guns will shot enough better to tell if the cases are all trimed to the exact lenth becauce their chambers are alittle big anyway, a safty thing I guess. If your talking abt bench rest guns with tight chambers you will get afew thousands better groups by trimming to exact lenth and turning necks ect. but not with hunting rifles.

Offline beemanbeme

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Trimming brass
« Reply #3 on: October 24, 2005, 06:05:50 AM »
I have never found the actual length of the cartridge to have any effect on accuracy.  The main point is to not exceed the maximum length and have them all the same.  
Case in point, way back when, I made a lot of 7-08 cases from .243 brass, the finished cases came up shorter than the recommended  minimum.  Their accuracy and velocity was no different from actual 7-08 brass.  
That said, I once fire my my new brass and then trim all the cases to a uniform length.  I don't trim again until they've grown close to the max length.

Offline Iowegan

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Trimming brass
« Reply #4 on: October 24, 2005, 06:14:14 AM »
deerman12, Trimming brass too short is a common mistake made by many reloaders. When the neck of the brass fills the free bore, it will optimize your rifle's accuracy. You need to allow about .005" for the brass to expand when fired. As Catfish stated, most guns have throats deeper than SAAMI specs and when you trim back to SAAMI minimum, it leaves a nasty gap between the case mouth and the bore. This free bore will be about .025" larger in diameter than the bullet. When the bullet is pushed under very high pressure, the gap leaves enough room for the base of the bullet to be pushed off center. This will cause bullet damage that makes the bullet slightly out-of-round. When the bullet leaves the barrel, it will whiffle down range and open your groups.

I have done extensive research on this subject because I manufacture tools used to measure optimum case trim length. Bullet seating depth also makes a big difference in accuracy. See: http://www.cactustactical.com/reloading.html

I agree with beemanbeme about trimming brass to a uniform length. A properly trimmed case will tighten velocity spread and improve accuracy. Comparing a 7mm-08 to a 223 Rem is an apple and oranges thing. The longer 7mm bullet will be well into the bore before the base exits the case. This makes trim length less critical. The short .224 bullets are affected much more by trim length. Even with a 7mm-08, uniform "trimmed-to-fit" cases will show a slight increase in velocity and will chronograph more consistant, thus potentially more accurate.
GLB

Offline deerman12

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Trimming brass
« Reply #5 on: October 24, 2005, 08:33:39 AM »
Thanks guys!  I was hoping that was the case.  I hate trimming these every single time.  I will probably start trimming every two to three times I reload the same case.  Goodluck this hunting season.

Offline Reloader

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Use a Lee trimmer
« Reply #6 on: October 24, 2005, 08:50:44 AM »
I generally run a Lee trimmer into each case as I already have it chucked in the Lee holder.  I spin the case with an electric screw driver and do the trimming and chamfering which only takes a couple of seconds.  I then dab on a bit of brass polish and spin the case in a paper towel to remove the lube.  I'm generally only loading 20-30 cases at a time for rifles so the process is not a big time consumer.  One thing I've noticed is while spinning the case in the paper towel I can feel defects ie. dimples, cracks, that may occur in the shoulder and neck area.
If I can make it go bang it can't be that hard to do.

Offline Tycer

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Trimming brass
« Reply #7 on: October 24, 2005, 11:08:23 AM »
Iowegan,

Would doing an upset slug help determine optimum case length? If so, how would one determine that length?
Thanks to you''uns from WNC,

Tycer

There is a fine line between Hobby and Mental Illness
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Offline beemanbeme

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Trimming brass
« Reply #8 on: October 24, 2005, 01:47:42 PM »
I have a question:  Let's say I am loading a .222.  The case length is within specs and the bullet is seated just off the lands.  Would not that bullet be well in the lands before the base had cleared the mouth of the case??  Even with a small .224 bullet, the projectile must be in the case mouth enough to hold it.  Much more that is to say than the few thousandths of jump between the bullet and the lands. The idea of a bullet being in "free flight" between the case mouth and the beginning of the rifling is hard for me to perceive.
Are you saying during the nanosecond in which the base of the bullet is neither in the neck nor in the rifling will distort the base of the bullet and degrade accuracy??  
You may be right for all I know.  I certainly not a good enough shot to prove or disprove your position.   :grin:

Offline warf73

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Trimming brass
« Reply #9 on: October 24, 2005, 10:20:48 PM »
All I know is that the poster stated his research and I believe him.
But I also can say in my research his theory is bull.
Not saying that I’m right or he is right.

But he obviously has never shot a Weatherby throated rifle.
In all 3 of my rifles there is no way in hell to get the bullet even close to the rifling.
Accuracy is good 1 rifle sub 1” and the other is sub ½” and the other is sub 1 ½” which is very good in my option. Two of the rifles are chambered in 300WBY and the other is 460WBY.

All I know is each rifle is different and each rifle will group better or worse with a small jump or large jump.

But I can say if you think your bullet is damaged because of bullet jump you are sadly mistaken.
Please keep in mind that your bullet is smashed, heated and forced threw a barrel at over 55,000 PSI. So what’s a little jump now and then if it makes a more accurate load?

Warf
"Life isn't like a box of chocolates...It's more like
a jar of jalapenos.  What you do today, might burn
your ass tomorrow."

Offline Iowegan

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Trimming brass
« Reply #10 on: October 25, 2005, 09:01:14 AM »
warf73, There are several rifles that use a tapered throat. This acts much like a forcing cone in a revolver. Yes, some Weatherbys and all Sakos and Tikkas have this. Many European military guns such as Mausers also have a tapered throat. In these guns, long bullets are used so it's more important to get the bullet started straight in the bore than what happens when the base is flush with the case mouth. Most guns with tapered throats are very accurate and not fussy. Sako and Tikka guarantee 1 MOA right out of the box. The down side to a tapered throat is barrel life. Assuming the same ammo and the same metal in the barrel, a tapered throat will erode much faster than a conventional throat. Throat erosion will distort the bullet and result in poor accuracy. Sako and Weatherby use some mighty fine metal in their barrels so erosion is minimized. As for your rude comment, you are looking at a sample rate of one vs the hundreds I have tested. You also happened to note one of the rifles that are an exception to normal.

As for most US made barrels, the bulk of them use a 2 degree taper, compared to an 11 -18 degree taper in Sakos. The almost square 2 degree taper is not really enough to matter. Some of the new Savage rifles now use a tapered throat too. I suspect we will see other US made guns going to the taper concept some day.

Tycer, Bullet upset is usually caused by exceeding the velocity for the twist rate, badly fouled barrel, or a bad crown. I could see a bullet keyholeing well down range because of short brass and bullet distortion.

beemanbeme, In your example, the bullet would be well started into the bore but there is about 50,000 psi on the bullet base that will do some weird stuff. Think of a 25 ton punch press pushing a relatively soft bullet into a hard undersized hole. It will deform it if the bullet is the slightest bit off center with the bore. This is why many bench rest shooter turn the necks on their brass. When extreme pressure is applied from firing, the soft brass case will puff up to the chamber dimensions. Should the brass be a tad thicker or thinner in one area, the bullet will not see a perfect round hole and can get started into the bore a fraction of a degree off center. Now the extreme pressure pushes on the bullet base and distorts the shape of the bullet slightly. The bore will iron out some of the distortion but will leave the bullet slightly out of balance with the axis. Once the bullet gets in flight, the off axis distortion will cause the bullet to act almost like a whiffle ball. At ranges of 200 yards or less, you probably won't see much difference except the groups won't be as tight. Further down range, the bullet's spin will decay enough where it will start to yaw and eventually tumble.

When long bullets are used, most of the bullet is well into the bore by the time the base flushes with the case mouth. This may still cause some bullet distortion but not nearly as bad as a .224" short bullet would see.

If you measure the diameter of a spent case neck, you can easily see how some unoccupied free bore (from short brass) would have enough room to allow the extreme pressure to push the bullet off center. Typically, the free bore is about .025" larger than bullet diameter. This assumes a .012 neck thickness and an extra thousandth to ease chambering. That's a lot of free space, more than 10% of the bullet diameter in your example.

Free flight? Don't think so. Just an unoccupied gap that can allow a bullet to get a wee bit off center. "Are you saying during the nanosecond in which the base of the bullet is neither in the neck nor in the rifling will distort the base of the bullet and degrade accuracy??"  Yes, that's exactly what happens. The reason the concept is hard to grasp is the pressure element. Put a bullet on an anvil then take a small hammer and give it a light whack. No doubt, the few psi you influenced on the bullet made it distort. Now think about what 50,000 psi would do.  

No matter what caliber you shoot, keeping the brass neck as long as possible will minimize bullet distortion, abet less so when long bullets are used. The real key is to get the bullet started straight into the bore, no matter what diameter or length of bullet you use. There are a lot of things we can't see or measure but have an influence none the less. Example: the neck of a brass case is seldom uniform in hardness or thickness. When a round is fired the brass doesn't puff up perfectly uniform. In that fraction of a second when the bullet is released, the non-uniform hardness or thickness can cause the bullet to be released a tiny bit off center. This causes bullet distortion when the ogive hits the bore. There is a simple solution for this. Annealing the brass from shoulder to mouth will virtually eliminate the problem. You really don't have to turn the necks either. The brass is so soft that it puffs and releases the bullet quickly and will iron out imperfections in thickness.

If you want to do just a few simple things, you can make a "problem child" gun into a good shooter. Keep the brass as long as possible and a uniform length, anneal the cases, seat the bullet to the right depth, use quality bullets, and weigh each powder charge.
GLB

Offline Jim n Iowa

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Trimming brass
« Reply #11 on: October 26, 2005, 02:22:39 PM »
I back Iowegan, your throat is many times what you think it is to set it off the lands. I have found after using the tools he prescribes you may never have to trim case's, as frequently. The point I want to make is, I have a old RCBS  Trimmer (collets). I started with new 44 mag brass to get uniform case length ( Win case) The case's heads are not uniform, so the collet tightens differently per case. Loose any one?Its not a consitant tool, as the collet tightens on the not uniform case head it draws more or less to tighten which each case as different means no consistent case length. Redding also use's a collet as do others. I went to the new Rcbs trimmer kit, they are not giving these away. It does give a constitant case size.
Jim