Author Topic: Cannon Lock (Read 777 times)

Powder keg · « **on:** February 07, 2006, 02:44:28 PM »

Hi, I'm building a cannon lock that screws into the vent. Simular to what Calamity Jane did on her barrel. I remember some pictures of a vent liner. I want to build the lock like a vent liner, and I need to know what it is suposed to look like. (I Know, I need to get that one book) This way It can be removed and a real vent liner can be screwed in so a fuse can also be used on this mortar.

Thanks, Wes

GGaskill · « **Reply #1 on:** February 07, 2006, 03:17:33 PM »

What is the chamber wall thickness?

Powder keg · « **Reply #2 on:** February 07, 2006, 03:48:52 PM »

The wall thickness is 1.250 and the guy wants to use Musket caps on the lock. I'm going to build a test rig and see how good this will work.

kappullen · « **Reply #3 on:** February 07, 2006, 04:52:33 PM »

PK,

Here's a simple lock I made for this old can mortar a year or so ago.
The lock is stainless and the stand is aluminum. Bead blasting makes them look similar.

There is a hard and pointed socket head set screw inset to set off a large shotgun primer.

Haven't tried a charge yet, but it sounds like a .22 going off with only a primer.

This would avoid boring the touch hole out.

Kap

Powder keg · « **Reply #4 on:** February 07, 2006, 05:18:48 PM »

Does the shotgun primer fit in the vent? I cant quite tell. If so, does it blow itself out of the hole?

Thanks, Wes

GGaskill · « **Reply #5 on:** February 07, 2006, 08:10:41 PM »

A friend of mine's beer can mortar is set up that way. He uses nylon rope on the slap hammer and frequently will not fire the cap because the hammer moves at too slow a velocity when it hits the cap. Part of the problem is the nylon cord stretches too much when it is jerked. Ignition is good when it works but the pull must be such that the rope goes tense at the end of the arm swing or it doesn't fire.

I am thinking that the piece actually connected to the hammer should be a short piece of small diameter wire rope terminated in a loop, with a traditional lanyard attached to the loop.

kappullen · « **Reply #6 on:** February 08, 2006, 01:35:42 PM »

George,

Suggest to your buddy to start his yank with some slack in the line.

That will allow his hand to get some velocity before the string snaps the lock.

Works for me.

Here's another shot that wouldn't load last night.

Cheers

Kap

Double D · « **Reply #7 on:** February 08, 2006, 01:59:47 PM »

If you are going to use a shotgun primer to fire with this type of lock you are going to need a firiing pin nose. The pin should be about .090 in diameter and adjusted to strike as near as possible to center on the primer.

Like rifle and pistol primers the shotgun primers have an anvil centered in the primer cup. The impact of your pin must at the anvil for the primer to reliably fire.