Author Topic: Transfer bar hanging up (Read 455 times)

Ditchdigger · « **on:** October 29, 2005, 10:08:23 AM »

I knew something would go wrong since my new Survivor had a 2 1/2 pd. trigger. Well if you lay the rifle on it right side and pick it up to cock the hammer the transfer bar is trying to fall out and hangs the hammer up where it cannot be cocked. I may just take the action apart and peen the end of the hinge pin a little. Anyone else have this problem? Digger

mitchell · « **Reply #1 on:** October 29, 2005, 10:40:45 AM »

i probably came off the spring or broke it. take it apart and put it back together and see if that work

.

(it probably just came off)

Fred M · « **Reply #2 on:** October 29, 2005, 11:07:00 AM »

Digger

Did somebody do a trigger job and put the spring in the wrong notch, but you don't have to take out the transfer bar to do a trigger job. I am not sure if the spring can jump out. The notches are pretty deep. But if the spring is broke it would interfer with the hammer cocking.

The thing about the spring iy gets very little tension and should not brake But since it is such a complex shape it is possible. One of the two legs on either side bent at 90 deg is where it would break.

Ditchdigger · « **Reply #3 on:** October 29, 2005, 02:05:02 PM »

The bar is not broken,it just slides to one side when you lean it toward the right. The pin attached to the upper bar slides out of the lower part and jams againts the reciever. It must have a keeper or somthing that came off. It works perfect if you lean the reciever to the left and then cock it. Digger

Fred M · « **Reply #4 on:** October 29, 2005, 03:38:14 PM »

Digger.
There are three parts. The barrel latch the lifter piece and the transfer bar.
The transfer bar has a hinge action attached with a pin to the lifter bar.

Are you saying this pin is sliding in and out. I don't remember but I think the pin is peened on both sides to prevent it from moving.

You have to take it out and re-peen it or glue it in with epoxy. Don't get any glue in the transfer bar hole. Usually these two parts are not taken apart. You need a slave pin to put the three pieces back into and take it out of the action.

Drive the pin out only far enough from right to left just past the barrel latch. Just start the pin and then drive it with the slave pin.

My slave pin is .532" long and .187" diameter with rounded ends, made of brass. You need two of those. One for the trigger and the other for the transfer bar.

And watch the springs flying around from the trigger group. Tie the hammer back and the latch push button up. This is the easy way to take things apart and put back together.

Ditchdigger · « **Reply #5 on:** October 29, 2005, 04:15:29 PM »

Hey Fred,I just got off the phone with JPH45 and one of his had the same problem. The pin was only peened on 1 side and it kept sliding out also. Now I'll either send it back for repair,see if they will send me the part,or just order the part. I may take it apart and try to peen the pin myself. thanks for the advice. Digger

Fred M · « **Reply #6 on:** October 29, 2005, 04:35:05 PM »

Digger.
It should not be a big deal to make a new pin from a fitting drill bit and peen both sides. It is a very simple job.

Or take out the existing pin and make a small countersink on the lifter bar put in the pin and expand both ends with a punch. Either way it is a few minuets job.

I never heard of this problem before. Next time I muck around in the action I take a look at the peening job. JP is a good man he knows his stuff.

JPH45 · « **Reply #7 on:** October 29, 2005, 06:23:07 PM »

Fred, I think drill stock would be too hard to peen. Something softer would be ok but it is in a tedious place. It is the pin that holds the lifter/transfer bar together, not the pin that runs through the frame. This same thing occured on my 357 Max frame before I sent it back to the factory for the 38-55 barrel. I repaierd it, or at least thought so by peening the original pin. I began shooting my 357 Max on what was my 45-70 frame when the firing pin on the 357 Max frame broke. After I sent the 357 frame in for fitting of the 38-55 barrel, it came back misfiring. I thought little of it at the time, but later the pin we are talking about broke. I took a section of 1/16" wire and made a pin. The misfiring continued, and it appears that the hook shaped peice that attaches to the trigger and holds the lifter up when the trigger is pulled was "over gunsmithed" by the factory when I sent the frame in for the barrel fit, they did a trigger job that should not have been done.....Lawyers :roll:

I Hope NEF will fix this for Ditchdigger without fixing anything else. Sounds like he's got a good trigger and worth spending 10.99 and shipping at Brownells to keep NEF from making a bad matter worse.

Fred M · « **Reply #8 on:** October 29, 2005, 07:25:15 PM »

JP

Quote

I think drill stock would be too hard to peen. Something softer would be ok but it is in a tedious place. It is the pin that holds the lifter/transfer bar together, not the pin that runs through the frame.

Yes I forgot to mention to anneal the drill stock. Yes I know we are not talking about the pin that runs through the frame.

I mentioned that pin because you need to drive it out enough to get the latch and the transfer bar out.

Some of these things get screwed around in writing, and when people don't know the system.

I do write a lot of instructions, with the thought that they are understandable. Wow you wont believe some of the question I receive by people trying to figure out what I wrote. Of course I don't have a technical proof reader.

:lol:

Ditchdigger · « **Reply #9 on:** November 01, 2005, 04:05:08 AM »

Well the upper part of the transfer bar fell of today so I called them this morning and they've got one in the mail for me. So I'll just have to wait and see. Digger