Author Topic: Help with annealing (Read 360 times)

gazz · « **on:** November 19, 2005, 12:53:38 PM »

Hi,
Just wondering if anyone has any good tips for neck annealing ?
I have been standing the cases in water and heating the necks with a gas torch, then tipping them over when they start to develop a dull red glow.
However, in practice, it seems that it is very difficult to heat them evenly this way.
I have also heard that it is possible to anneal them by placing the necks in molten lead. Has anyone tryed this? It seems like you would get a more even heat this way.
I used the old "heat 'em up in water" method with Remmington brass with some success, but when I tryed it with Winchester brass, the shoulders and necks collapsed on loading.
Thanks,
gazz

Iowegan · « **Reply #1 on:** November 19, 2005, 01:56:51 PM »

gazz, If you are heating them up until they glow, you've gone way too far. Heat from shoulder to mouth. Apply enough heat where you hear a good schhhh sound when you tip them over. If the case discolors and turns a little pink, you got it right. The actual temperature to anneal brass is 500-600 degrees. They don't start glowing until 1000 degrees.

gazz · « **Reply #2 on:** November 19, 2005, 05:58:26 PM »

Thanks Iowegan,
I just looked up the melting temperature of lead and it is 600 F. Maybe the idea of heating them in lead is worth a try. It would be a lot more controlable. The idea of lead fumes doesn't do much for me though.
Thanks,
gazz.

ButlerFord45 · « **Reply #3 on:** November 20, 2005, 03:17:48 AM »

Dipping the necks in your melting pot is without a doubt the very best way to do this chore

stimpylu32 · « **Reply #4 on:** November 20, 2005, 08:33:40 AM »

When dipping the cases into the lead pot .

Do you have any problems with lead sticking to the cases and is there a danger of exploding lead when you drop it into the water .

Never tried this method , just wondering

ButlerFord45 · « **Reply #5 on:** November 20, 2005, 09:26:22 AM »

The lead does not stick and dropping the lead into water isn't a problem, just keep your water where it doesen't splash into the lead.

I don't remember where, but there is a website that gives the desired temperature for annealing, but I believe it to be around 750 degrees F.
Just hold about a third of the case in the lead till the base of the case starts to get too warm to hold and drop it into ice water. I have my pot on a bench and a bucket of water at my feet, never enough splash to cause a problem. The great thing about this method is that the annealing is consistent all the way around the case, something that is difficult at best with a torch.

stimpylu32 · « **Reply #6 on:** November 20, 2005, 10:21:03 AM »

COOL

thanks BF45

gazz · « **Reply #7 on:** November 20, 2005, 05:29:10 PM »

ButlerFord,
I tried annealing the cases in lead, but the stuff sort of solders onto the brass. Any thoughts on this?
I know that when I'm casting, and if the ladel is cooler than the molten lead, the lead will stick to it. But the idea here, is to heat the brass up in the lead.
I tried a little grease on the brass but it didn't help.
Thanks,
gazz.

ButlerFord45 · « **Reply #8 on:** November 20, 2005, 06:09:33 PM »

Gazz, when your ladle gets about the temp of the melt, does it not come out clean? That's what you're trying to do when your're dipping the case, heating it to the temperature of the molten lead, my guess is that the brass hasn't gotten hot enough before you remove it from the pot, the lead flowing off the brass should be a pretty good temperature indicator. If you need a glove to hold the case in order to heat the neck and shoulder properly, by all means use one, I do any time I'm near a hot pot.

John Traveler1 · « **Reply #9 on:** November 20, 2005, 10:26:12 PM »

Dipping the neck/shoulder in powdered graphite or light oil will prevent the lead from sticking to the brass. Get powdered graphite from the hardware or auto parts store.