Author Topic: Help! transfer bar I think? (Read 393 times)

beckerhead · « **on:** November 21, 2005, 03:42:16 AM »

On my stand, beautiful morning, happened to look at my hammer, and it was pulled back about 1/2 inch? I thought what the %$#, pulled it back and tried to ease it back down, no go. pulled the hammer back turned the gun upside down and what I think is the transfer bar, fell out in my hand!!!! It is a small flat piece with a little pin through the bottom sideways. the pin looks really worn on one side and in good shape on the other. I know thats not much of an engineer's description of parts but does anyone know if it is the t-bar and a 800# for NEF service. If I ship it can I just send the receiver minus stock and bbl? Also, how common is this? Needless to say I was more than a little angry, over it now, but man, that was a 10 point broadside shot disaster waiting to happen! Any help would be great.

Ditchdigger · « **Reply #1 on:** November 21, 2005, 05:17:41 AM »

Yep,sounds like the transfer bar to me,mine did the same thing,so did JPH45,Dano,and someone else that I can't remember who. NEF sent me a new one free and Dano and I put our's in ourselves. Just send the action in or call customer service and tell them the problem.If you can put it in yourselve it will save alot of traveltime. Digger

Fred M · « **Reply #2 on:** November 21, 2005, 05:25:29 AM »

If you know how to take the action apart you can make a new pin from a drill bit. Anneal the pin and peen the ends after installing.

Or you can send the action only to H&R. You could have a broken pinion since the transfer bar came out with the pin still in it,

Ditchdigger · « **Reply #3 on:** November 21, 2005, 07:38:16 AM »

My pin on my rifle was a little to short to peen like it should be,and thats why most of them fall off. If you force the hammer on back,thats when it breaks the pin. Fred if you read this,I've got a 22 250 barrel that was factory installed but after its shot it takes both thumbs to push the button down to release the barrel. Do I just lightly hone the catch lug on the barrel? Digger

quickdtoo · « **Reply #4 on:** November 21, 2005, 07:47:14 AM »

Quote from: Ditchdigger

Fred if you read this,I've got a 22 250 barrel that was factory installed but after its shot it takes both thumbs to push the button down to release the barrel. Do I just lightly hone the catch lug on the barrel? Digger

Digger, is that with factory ammo? FWIW, the only time any of mine do that is if the load is too hot, but I spose a burr on the latch shelf could cause it, too.....I'll be waiting for Fred's response, too. :wink:

beckerhead · « **Reply #5 on:** November 21, 2005, 08:08:45 AM »

Can anyone give me a little guidance on DIY'ing the t-bar. Which pin do I drive out, what do I leave alone etc. I am not a complete idiot, but I've never been inside one of these before. I did a search and found some reference to tying the hammer back? and bbl release up? other than that I need a few details. Also, if I do this right will it happen again or not? Is it simply a design flaw, or a QC issue? thanks.

Ditchdigger · « **Reply #6 on:** November 21, 2005, 09:20:37 AM »

I used Perklo's instructions on how to do it,also FredM site has very good info .It's a QC problem that the pin is not peened on both sides like it should be.I don't know how to paste these web sites here,but Quickdtoo does. Digger

Fred M · « **Reply #7 on:** November 21, 2005, 09:51:20 AM »

Beckerhead.
Go to the Perklo trigger write up. You will see all the parts and how to take them out. Go and print the write up so you can study it without the computer.

The transfer bar and the pinion are held together with the pin we are talking about. It shows you how to install the the two legged coil spring. It will take a lot of looking before you get it in your mind. You also need pin punches and make two slave pins and as per Perklo.

Digger and Tim.
Your problem is a depression in the the latch seat. It gets there because the latch has a radius and is very hard and the seat is straight and soft. The latch only bears on the tangent of the radius and the latch digs into the surface of the seat. The more you shoot the more it digs into the soft seat.

If you remove metal your latch will be loose. What you need is a matching radius in the seat. You need to take out the trigger and the latch compression spring to see the front edge of the latch seat. By pushing the latch with pencil. You will see the gap on the front edge of the seat.

Take out the barrel and peen the front edge up until the latch just scrapes across. Use a 1/4 flat punch for the peening. You may want to smoke the edge to get it perfect even with a stone. The latch should slide across without clearance or being held back.

Now you stipple the seat with a very pointed thin punch, the dimples should be very close to gether and not too deep. Next you smoke the seat and fit the latch to the thickness of the latch maintaing the radius with an oval needle file.

Clean the seat with aceton and apply a layer od Devcon Steel putty rubbed into the dimples. Ease the latch onto the seat and let it sit for a week. Don't forget to put a little release agent on the latch before setting it on top of the Devcon. You now have radius seat which should not stick.

I have done this on both my rifles and it works fine. Of course you also want no gap in the standing breech. Please don't ask for a Devcon Steel Putty sustitude.

beckerhead · « **Reply #8 on:** November 23, 2005, 06:30:04 AM »

Called H&R today and I will be shipping my gun this afternoon. I have to get back to the deer woods tomorrow, sadly without my beloved .308 Ultra :cry: . But, if I can squeeze a little sweetness out of my lovely bride, I may get back a 45-70 bbl along with my repaired tranfer bar. I did print off the whole Perklo trigger job, and will be studying toward my PhD in "Handiology". Anyway, I guess my old Marlin needs love too, so wish me luck and no bad gun voodoo as I venture back into the great Arkansas woowoods :lol: .