Author Topic: Primers and caliber (Read 497 times)

Heavyhaul · « **on:** December 03, 2005, 06:02:21 PM »

I have two questions. First off, this sight is great, I have been visiting and learning for months. Any way, does anybody have an idea on primer sensitivity? I put light springs in my GP-100 and wondered what primer to stick with. I am also looking for a pistol in a bit of an off-beat caliber. I am looking at either a 357 Max or a 454 Supermag. I have 3 357s and would like something to take whitetails at longer range, not a 44 mag, but not a lot more recoil. I want to be different, but not abused. Thanks.

williamlayton · « **Reply #1 on:** December 03, 2005, 10:42:11 PM »

What, in your opinion, is the purpose of a primer?
not an arguement or put down but just the beginning of understanding.
Blessings

Heavyhaul · « **Reply #2 on:** December 04, 2005, 05:48:39 AM »

I hand load, so I understand that a primer is the catalyst to ignite the powder charge. But, it will not do this if IT does not ignite. I have been out of reloading for about 10 yrs, and I am trying to catch up on the changes in materials. I recognize that in rifle reloading the primer will effect accuracy, but as of right now, I am not that consistent with a handgun. I don't want to buy 1000 primers to find that my revolvers will not fire them without changing back to the original springs.

PaulS · « **Reply #3 on:** December 04, 2005, 09:29:02 AM »

If the spring kit that you installed won't fire all primers reliably then it is too light. I would suggest a good trigger job instead of the light spring. I have an old Security-Six and tried a lighter spring and had some misfires. I put the original spring back in and polished the trigger and sear up and corrected the over travel. I have a single action pull of 4 pounds with no creep and no overtravel. The double action pull is a bit higher, as one would expect and it isn't perfect as you can feel two stages before the let-off but it is very smooth. If I had let a smith do it it might be better but I like the fact that I did it myself. I can rest a dime on the front sight and pull the trigger without upsetting the dime. It took a lot of work and some practice but it is worth it.

Savage · « **Reply #4 on:** December 04, 2005, 11:25:20 AM »

Winchester primers! They seem to work best with the lightened hammer springs. That's all I use. Works great in all my handguns.
Savage

Iowegan · « **Reply #5 on:** December 04, 2005, 06:03:58 PM »

Federals have the softest cup and detonate the easiest. Remington comes next, followed by Winchester. CCIs are the hardest cups. If your gun will detonate a CCI, it won't have a problem with the other brands.

Heavyhaul · « **Reply #6 on:** December 04, 2005, 06:11:38 PM »

I hear ya Paul. I'm a bit obsessive/compulsive. I get in to something and I want to do it. It is no good to have someone else help my gun shoot good. But from my limited experience, a trigger job will make it smother, but it takes spring to make a lighter pull. I don't care this gun for PP so I like the trigger to be light enough to scare me. It is always pointed in a safe direction when ready to fire. Please keep educating me. Thanks. Also, thanks for the Winchester lead. I shot with a guy that is Rem thru-and-thru but would not touch their primers.

PaulS · « **Reply #7 on:** December 05, 2005, 12:23:08 AM »

Heavyhaul,
A good trigger job can lighten the pull - its all in the angles. A good smith can change the angles of the sear contact enough to lighten the pull without reducing the spring tension but you have to be good to do it - I altered my 03A3 to the point that I had to replace the trigger because I changed the angle too much and a single touch would make the sear fall and the firing pin drop - Good lesson - bad move. The Timney trigger is better anyway.

Quote from: Heavyhaul

I hear ya Paul. I'm a bit obsessive/compulsive. I get in to something and I want to do it. It is no good to have someone else help my gun shoot good. But from my limited experience, a trigger job will make it smother, but it takes spring to make a lighter pull. I don't care this gun for PP so I like the trigger to be light enough to scare me. It is always pointed in a safe direction when ready to fire. Please keep educating me. Thanks. Also, thanks for the Winchester lead. I shot with a guy that is Rem thru-and-thru but would not touch their primers.

williamlayton · « **Reply #8 on:** December 05, 2005, 12:37:19 AM »

Well, looks like all the advice you need to me.
I might also suggest that a different a different firing pin if a semi but that might not be a good thought in a roller.
Blessings

Bullseye · « **Reply #9 on:** December 05, 2005, 06:51:50 AM »

Do what I did with the last GP100 I changed springs in. Put in the lighter trigger spring and leave the factory mainspring. This will get the trigger pull down to 3lbs or less in single action but will not help double action as much. By doing this you will not need to worry about light primer strikes.

Heavyhaul · « **Reply #10 on:** December 10, 2005, 11:19:37 AM »

Thank for the info everyone. I'm still experimenting with the springs in the pack.