Author Topic: .270 Troubles: (Read 885 times)

Duce · « **on:** November 22, 2005, 12:27:55 PM »

Folks: Last year I reported that my .270 was scattering shots, turned out to be a loose scope mount. Now it's stringing vertically [3"to 6"]. I noticed that the barrel/action lock-up has a lot of lateral movement, is there a way to tighten it up? could this cause the problem? It turns out that this barrel will fit and lock up tightly on another action, plan on test firing this combo.
The old o-ring trick has been around a long time, but I've read about full bedding the forearm, what kind of results are you getting? does this permanently pair the forearm and barrel? is the barrel/forearm mounting lug bedded tight, or floated? All Help Welcome: :-) <>< Duce:

quickdtoo · « **Reply #1 on:** November 22, 2005, 03:16:12 PM »

Duce, Fred has info on forend bedding on his web site.

http://www.angelfire.com/ma/ZERMEL/hrultrawp.html

Also check out Perklo's post on forend bedding in the FAQ and here's a link to Mac's forend bedding post...

http://www.graybeardoutdoors.com/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=74863&highlight=forend+bedding

I believe due to the inconsistent position of the forend stud on each barrel, bedding a forend will probably dedicate the bedded forend to that barrel, but since I haven't had to do it yet, dunno for sure.

Hope this helps. :wink:

Fred M · « **Reply #2 on:** November 22, 2005, 06:05:23 PM »

Duce.
Before you bed the forearm, you better check all the loose joints and get them tight first. Stringing up and down 6" is usually caused by a loose latch or a weak latch spring. You can make two flat washers from an alu pop can and place them under the spring or put a #2 steel shot under spring to get more compression.

To tighten the latch you have to bring up the back of the barrel a few thou by putting a shim under the back end of the underlug. Lateral play in the action can be stopped by Devcon Steel Putty on both sides of the action well.

And a bit of this putty in the hinge pin seat will take care of the gap.

With the action tight in all directions you then fit the forearm tight to the action and bed the hinge piece with Brownell steel bed.

It is all in details on my web site. Read it and you will be rewarded.

Duce · « **Reply #3 on:** November 23, 2005, 01:11:47 AM »

Fred: Web adress, I'm a little behind the times :oops: . You mentioned tightening the plastic hinge piece against the action, I've read several times that loosening it helps, would you care to expand on that statement. You definately got my interest, I've tryed the loose/floating technique.
Thanks, both you and Quick, didn't realize I'd gotten so far behind. Input is always welcome!! :-D <>< Duce:

Ditchdigger · « **Reply #4 on:** November 23, 2005, 03:20:49 AM »

Hey Duce; Go find a sticker that has the Savage name on it ,stick it on the forend,and it will be a 1/2" shooter from now on.

Digger

Fred M · « **Reply #5 on:** November 23, 2005, 09:49:50 AM »

Digger

A label change could in fact spell out a better shooting rifle for the inapt, the blind, the deaf and the the illiterate. :-D :-D :-D :-D

Duce · « **Reply #6 on:** November 23, 2005, 12:34:40 PM »

Fred: I resemble that remark!!
Hey Digger

, if you think a Savage is ugly enough to be accurate, take a look at an ATR 100 Mossberg, ought to be a real tack driver. {Like'em both}
Has anyone thouht about drilling and tapping set screws in the right place to take up slack? Thanks Guys: :-D <>< Duce:

safetysheriff · « **Reply #7 on:** November 23, 2005, 12:42:53 PM »

Quote from: Duce

Folks: It turns out that this barrel will fit and lock up tightly on another action, plan on test firing this combo.

All Help Welcome: :-) <>< Duce:

duce,

it may sound expedient to try that .270 barrel on the other frame, but only if it won't stretch/bend the other frame 'til it loosens up when closing the original barrel on it. it may not happen; but it might happen with all the leverage we can generate when closing a barrel on a frame with a stock attached.

i hope it works out; but would suggest the rifle be sent to the factory.

take care,

ss'

Duce · « **Reply #8 on:** November 23, 2005, 01:22:52 PM »

SS: Gotcha, don't plan on many rounds under 10. Thanks

<>< Duce:

Fred M · « **Reply #9 on:** November 23, 2005, 02:18:28 PM »

Duce.
A set screw could be tapped into the bottom of the underlug. You can get the size by placing a small ball of modeling clay in the bottom of the action well and flatten it then measure the thickness for the length of the set screw.

There is not much meat on the bottom of the underlug to taper thread or you hang up the ejector or the extractor. I think a shim can be fitted easier.

Duce · « **Reply #10 on:** November 30, 2005, 04:21:48 PM »

Folks: Some good news. I drove the hinge pin out and turned it and that tighten things up some. Got a little range time and while the grps weren't great they weren't strung out vertically.
The rifle had begun to stick cases after firing, I posted about this and using nothing but a finish nail dropped down the muzzle to clear it. The point being it wasn't taking much to clear. This got me thinking maybe it wasn't the chamber but something else. I tore down the ejector and found a lot of rough edges, polishing the ejector and filing down all the rough edges seems to clear up the sticking! Good Shooting:

<>< Duce:

safetysheriff · « **Reply #11 on:** December 01, 2005, 05:05:49 AM »

Duce'

interesting fix for that ejector. i never thought about the factory leaving such problems inside that ejector assembly for us to deal with....even though it makes sense to look for such possibilities.

thanks for the info'.

ss'

quickdtoo · « **Reply #12 on:** December 01, 2005, 07:31:09 AM »

I do believe that Fred has mentioned many times about cleaning up the ejector and housing to remove any burrs in addition to cleaning it to help solve ejection issues. :wink:

slayer · « **Reply #13 on:** December 01, 2005, 09:43:53 AM »

I have to respectfully ask, if alot of Handis nead alot of work out of the box to shoot well, why doesn`t NEF just make them better form the factory to solve this? They seam very inconsitent at best. If I were NEF, I wouldn`t want them leaving with all of these problems. Is there Tooling worn out? Jack.

safetysheriff · « **Reply #14 on:** December 01, 2005, 09:57:46 AM »

Quote from: quickdtoo

I do believe that Fred has mentioned many times about cleaning up the ejector and housing to remove any burrs in addition to cleaning it to help solve ejection issues. :wink:

quick'

ok; ok! i get it..... :cry: but remember this: if you just got out of a half-way house and were trying to make 'sobriety' the number one goal in your life -- then maybe you wouldn't remember every post you've ever read either! :x let me tell you: de-tox' aint easy!!!

i'm doin' every thing i can to keep my head above water :eek: ok? :shock:

SS'

quickdtoo · « **Reply #15 on:** December 01, 2005, 10:18:59 AM »

Bored again, or just a bad case of the DTs?

.308 · « **Reply #16 on:** December 01, 2005, 10:19:29 AM »

Quote from: safetysheriff

ok; ok! i get it..... :cry: but remember this: if you just got out of a half-way house and were trying to make 'sobriety' the number one goal in your life -- then maybe you wouldn't remember every post you've ever read either! :x let me tell you: de-tox' aint easy!!!
i'm doin' every thing i can to keep my head above water :eek: ok? :shock:
SS'

Now that really tickles my funny bone.

You should be writing for Leno or Letterman.

Reckin' he can take a hint. :roll: