Author Topic: Sticking case again fix? (Read 892 times)

trotterlg · « **on:** November 28, 2005, 11:08:01 AM »

I went looking for a nice heavy nail to drop down the barrel to loosen those stuck cases I get from time to time, but because I have a .17 Rem I couldn't find one heavy enough that I could fit down the barrel. I finally had to come up with another solution. I took out the ejector and cut a notch in the side of it, now if a case is stuck I just stick the end of my knife in the slot and give it a little tweek and out it pops. Sorry about the bad picture, but I bet you get the idea. Larry

bladerunner · « **Reply #1 on:** November 28, 2005, 11:17:14 AM »

that's a pretty cool idea....thanks

I don't have an issue with stuck cases at the moment,but if i develop one my ejector may "develop" a notch :-D

Mac11700 · « **Reply #2 on:** November 28, 2005, 12:46:48 PM »

I think Fred M did this last year on his rifle as well...and I believe it's on his web site too...How's that 17 shooting lately...work up anymore loads for it?

Mac

trotterlg · « **Reply #3 on:** November 28, 2005, 01:17:23 PM »

I found I had some play in the hinge pin area, it it very hard to get it exactly parallel to the breach, I finally shimmed one side .0015 and the other side .003 and tested it using plastigage and now it locks up very nice. I got a three quarters inch horizontal at 200 yards the other day with about 3 inches vertical with 8 out of 11 rounds. I think the shimming will fix it up very well now. I am going to Arizona for a couple of weeks to get a break from the cold, so will take the rifle and some loads and shoot there a little. I loaded up some 20gr hornady bullets with 24.9 gr of Winchester 748 which puts them about 4300fps according to the book. I ordered up some Genco 22.5 gr sp bullets for coyotes and will shoot some of them when I get home. Larry

Mac11700 · « **Reply #4 on:** November 28, 2005, 01:21:00 PM »

Sounds like you got a plan...Have a good time in Az...and bust some yotes for us that can't go

Mac

Fred M · « **Reply #5 on:** November 28, 2005, 02:05:56 PM »

Mac
It proofes again people do not read much. My manual extractor notch has been on my web page since the old H&R forum. I got the notch on bothl Handis. With multi used brass on the 257 Roberts I get stuck cases quite often.

trotterlg · « **Reply #6 on:** November 29, 2005, 03:21:26 AM »

I read the page on the notch in the barrel, but the thought of cutting into the breach of the barrel didn't appeal to me, I think the ejector is a $6.00 part. Larry

bladerunner · « **Reply #7 on:** November 29, 2005, 04:49:46 AM »

Heck,Fred,I read alot,but there's sooo much info on this site and linked to it it'll take awhile to get caught up :-D (and i've gotta admit,I like trotterlg's idea better....if i'm gonna modify somethin,i'd rather modify a CHEAP part)

.308 · « **Reply #8 on:** November 29, 2005, 06:07:33 AM »

Not bad, very good in fact. :agree: Who says you can't teach an old dog new tricks?

The old dog being me of course.

Fred M · « **Reply #9 on:** November 29, 2005, 08:22:14 AM »

Technically, cutting the ejector leg in halve is not what I would call a good idea. Here is why.

The upstanding part of the ejector is first put in tension as the ejector trigger is activated.

Next the ejectecor gets whiplashed at the sudden stop. This continuing alternating stress reversal will eventual fail the upstanding leg.

The ejectors are made from sintered steel, which is very hard and a fracture at the upstand is possible more so when only halve the metal is left.

Recently I bought another 06 type ejector for another conversion. This ejector is nearly twice as thick in the leg as the one in the rifle, I wondered why it was beefed up so much. Perhaps to increase inertia

It is quite common by European gun smith to turn a complete tapered recess around the chamber face in the break open single shot rifles to the depth of the cartridge rim or groove to pry out a stuck case.

There is no outward pressure on the rim or groove only expansion when the primer pocket gets enlarged by high pressure.

As far as ruining a barrel doing my manual extractor, that would be very far fetched. But people with wrong tools and minimal manual skills can ruin most anything.

In my 257R when I use well used brass I get a few sticking cases but with the notch it is almost as easy to take out a case than ejectiing it. With a hot loads cases can be really stuck. The notch has never failed to dig them out.

By the way the ejetor in trotterig's picture is quite different from the ones I have? Do as you please, Iam not worried.

trotterlg · « **Reply #10 on:** November 29, 2005, 12:24:59 PM »

Fred: It's different than yours because it's a rimfire ejector, and I will let you know if it breaks in half. Larry

Fred M · « **Reply #11 on:** November 29, 2005, 01:31:05 PM »

trotterig

:idea2: :oh: :eek:

Well, that shows you how much I know about Handi's. :eek:

Since they are factory loads. Why would a rim fire stick? The chamber must be pretty rough?

??

No I am not waiting for it to break, it may last forever. Since the width is much more substantial. It is nevertheless just another way to dislodge a stuck case and an origional one.

trotterlg · « **Reply #12 on:** November 29, 2005, 01:38:21 PM »

Fred: It is a rimfire ejector in a rimfire barrel that has a centerfire chamber. .17 Remingtons run some fairly high pressure to get that little bullet up to 4,300fps. Larry

Fred M · « **Reply #13 on:** November 29, 2005, 07:19:05 PM »

Larry.
How accurate is this speed demon. The 1-9 twist should practically melt the bullet in flight at that speed. I shot my friends 17 HRM and I liked it a lot on gophers out to 150 or so. It is snowing and cold Yuma AZ is coming up in January.

trotterlg · « **Reply #14 on:** November 30, 2005, 01:28:43 PM »

Last time at the range I got an honest 1 inch wide by 3 inch tall group at 200 yards. I had some lock up issues, and I have re-done the hinge with a shim and it is perfectly tight now, so I hope it will be better. I won't have a chance to shoot it before I go to Arizona for a couple of weeks, but will take it with me and shoot down there, if it shoots right I will look for a Coyote to try it out on. Only bullets I have now are Hornady 20gr VMax's, but they make over 4,300fps, so that is what I will shoot. Larry

Duce · « **Reply #15 on:** December 01, 2005, 01:13:44 AM »

Gentlemen: The reason I mention using a nail to clear a stuck case was pointing out how little it took to clear. Having worked on firearms in general for 30 years, every time I encountered stuck cases it took a pretty good push/pull to get them out. Tearing down the ejector on the .270 showed me something, the ejector itself was warped in the production process and the raceway it set in was roughfully machined. Polishing the ejector to true it somewhat, filing and smoothing the raceway, rounding corners and shimming up the spring seemed to clear things up. Thanks :grin: <>< Duce:

Fred M · « **Reply #16 on:** December 01, 2005, 08:03:49 AM »

Duce.
Take out the ejector and spring from the breech end, roll in a #1 or #2 steel shot put the spring on top and you get a bit more compression on the spring it helps an obstinate case along.

Duce · « **Reply #17 on:** December 01, 2005, 11:00:37 AM »

Fred: I used a 6/48 fillister head screw, the threaded portion will just fit inside the spring, keeps this in place and the head is about 3/32" thick. Don't have a problem with a BB or #2 shot but easy to lose. Done several trigger jobs on CZ .22 rimfire, they use ball bearing spring followers, a real bear to reassemble. Thanks For The Help:

<>< Duce:

Fred M · « **Reply #18 on:** December 01, 2005, 06:06:00 PM »

Duce.
Good idea with the screw head.
I have 10lbs bags of steel shot, not worried about loosing one pellet,ha? :toast: :gulp:

trotterlg · « **Reply #19 on:** December 01, 2005, 06:30:13 PM »

To shim my spring I used the aluminum base from a cleaning brush, filed off the threads and drilled a hole in it where the brush wires went in. Cut it down a little and pinned it in, the screw part helps keep the spring straight and aligned. Larry

Good Keen Man · « **Reply #20 on:** December 02, 2005, 12:19:39 AM »

To Fred M - what is the URL for your website for how to put the notch in? Do you risk deforming the brass by doing this?

Fred M · « **Reply #21 on:** December 02, 2005, 06:24:51 AM »

Good Keen Man.

Quote

Do you risk deforming the brass by doing this?

No you don't. The notch only goes to the bottom of the extractor groove.

On the bottom of any of my posts you see a small box saying WWW
click on that and you get my web page index. Tweak your Handi is what you want and three other relating to Handi's