Author Topic: forming brass  (Read 963 times)

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Offline anthonyg

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forming brass
« on: December 08, 2005, 04:47:28 AM »
fellow silhouette shooters I would like to know how you form 260rem brass from 243 lapua brass. I just got a bad batch of rem brand brass.The lapua brass should be more uniform I need to know the correct way of forming the brass to 260 THANK YOU
Anthony G
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Offline Arizona Jake

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forming brass
« Reply #1 on: December 08, 2005, 06:45:29 AM »
Anthony,

I replaced the standard expander plug on my Redding .260 full-length dies with a TAPERED EXPANDER plug.

Using RCBS lube and a Q-tip, I swabbed the inside of the lapua .243 case necks, just inside the case mouth. I then applied lube to the entire outside of the cases and ran them through the FL die. No problems.

Make sure you ream and chamfer the case mouths after cleaing the cases.

Joaquin, aka
Joaquin B.:cb2:

Offline PJ Smyth

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Expander from K&M
« Reply #2 on: December 08, 2005, 03:14:02 PM »
K&M Services  make the best  long tapered Expanders for Resizing Cases  prior to neck turning your cases. They screw into your 7/8 press and work a treat. I just got one for 7mmBR  to size 6mmBR up to 7mmBR  I just Sprayed the cases with One Shot because I had no Graphite left, and it was as smooth as silk, I was amazed. Ken Makes a range of super high quality products for the precision shooter. He is a great guy to deal with Lot of guys in Australiaand all around the world  Import and use his productsespecially the Benchresters. let him Know where you got the contact from. Regards Phill Smyth
 K&M Services 5430 Salmon Run Road Dover PA 17315-4149 (717)292-3175

Offline yankee

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« Reply #3 on: December 09, 2005, 05:10:05 AM »
Sinclair makes a Neck Expander Body that works great.  The Body takes different size Mandrels for differend calibers. A little lube on the inside of the neck and you are set to go.

Offline Gringo Grizzly

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forming brass
« Reply #4 on: December 10, 2005, 04:07:37 AM »
Anthony,

I  hate to admit this, but I don't do anything special in necking up .243 Lapua brass to shoot in my .260's.

I use the regular F/L sizing die - mine's a Redding - without any modifications.

All I do is dab a little bit of Imperial Sizing Wax across the case mouth, enough for the expander ball to drive through with a little lubrication - I also use a light coat on the case itself, just as you'd normally do if F/L sizing a case.

This decreases the resistance and "bite" of the case as it runs up into the sizing die.

After this pass, I use a Q-Tip to dry most of the Imperial from the inside of the case neck - and of course, a trusty rag to dry most of the stuff off of the outside of the case.

This merely necks the case up - and wingo - you're ready to shoot if your chamber is close to standard dimensions for the cartridge.

On the first firing, the brass will better dimensionally correct itself and you can then neck size or Full length size - whatever your normal preference is.

It'd be interesting to run a poll to find out if readers of this forum prefer neck or F/L sizing for HP sil shooting.

Gringo

Offline Nobade

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forming brass
« Reply #5 on: December 11, 2005, 03:22:10 AM »
I'm not sure why fireforming with Cream 'O' Wheat isn't more popular. You get a perfectly formed case the first time out, with no bore wear or cost of bullets. Plus it smells good! Anyhow, I do that first, with 7.0gr. Bullseye powder and a case full of COW, topped with a tuft of toilet paper. Then I'll size with Lee collet dies until the case gets hard to chamber, then bump it with a Redding body die. Bullets are seated with a Wilson seater. If I build a rifle with a tight neck chamber, I'll be able to se a Wilson sizer on the turned neck cases, but for un-turned ones the Lee dies work better.
"Give me a lever long enough, and a place to stand, and I'll break the lever."

Offline Troy G

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forming brass
« Reply #6 on: December 11, 2005, 04:42:05 PM »
Once .243 brass has been necked up to .260 what is the dimensional difference in the cases?  I doubt with the accuracy required for silhouette that you could tell a difference.  Nobade, why do you bother to fireform cases?  Only reason I ask is that you are still heating your throat and that in turn leads to wear and tear on the barrel.  Do you notice a measurable difference in accuracy with cases that are fireformed with the COW method?

Offline DanDeMan

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« Reply #7 on: December 11, 2005, 05:37:06 PM »
Gents,

Opening up 243 Lapua brass to 260 is simple and quick.  Minimizing effort is the main focus of this process for me.

1. Pour a little liquid lanolin into a small bottle cap.
2. Dip 243 case mouth into cap so just a little lube coats the case mouth, less is more.
3. Expand using a K & M Services tapered 0.262" diameter expander
4. Use Q-tip to remove lanolin from inside of case neck
5. Load with CPT powder charge and bullet
6. Shoot in match
All the best,

Dan Theodore

Offline eroyd

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forming brass
« Reply #8 on: December 12, 2005, 06:36:55 AM »
I lucked into some cheap once fired norma 308 brass and I sized it down with one swipe of a 260 full length die. I thought I'd have to turn the necks but as it turns out, a bullet will easily slip into a freshly fired case.

Remington and Winchester brass did not fair so well.

Offline anthonyg

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forming brass
« Reply #9 on: December 12, 2005, 09:05:33 AM »
fellow silhouette shooters and ladies.Thankyou for all the information on forming brass.I think it's great to have a place like graybeard to get answers to my question's
                              Anthony G
rambuster 40