Should I have bought it???

[5Redman8]

At a gun show in the DFW area yeasterday, there was a Rocky Mountain Elk Foundations H&R Ultra 280 Rem. WITH A CHEAP scope...Bushnell....paired with the same set up in 12ga.....that is one complete rifle and one complete shotgun for $350.  Not sure of the model of Shotgun as I am not familiar with H&R shotguns but it had the same laminated stock and forend and my ultra does.

These were a package deal.  If I would have had the CASH on me, I probably would have done it but I did not and only had plastic.

So.....wear me out....should I have bought them for resale???

Kyle :oops:

[Mac11700]

So.....wear me out....should I have bought them for resale???

Yup...if your buying to resell them to make some profit...then yes..you should have...the RMEF rifles are going for about $300-$350 on their own....and used shotguns for about $75-$100.00 around here...

If you wanted a nice collectable/shootable rifle-shotgun to keep...then yes..you should have bought it...and if you didn't like the shotgun then sold it to recoup some of your money to offset the initial purchase price..

Mac

[5Redman8]

Mac,

We need an emergency hotline to this forum.  Just looking at them, they looked brand new.  At the next gun show, i will find the seller and see if they are still available.  May not need the profit but just pass on a good deal to the folks here.

Sometimes when you see a deal like that, you wonder WHAT MIGHT BE WRONG wit it???

Kyle

[Mac11700]

That's were having a good understanding of the Handi's comes in...and having a small bore lite along with you at gunshows or whenever you go looking at gunshops is always a good idea.Here's how I do it...and what I look for..

Things to look for on a used Handi besides the obvious wear and tear they have.....

1) Barrel and chamber pitting...a badly pitted chamber and bore says the gun wasn't cared for...and could be a problem to correct or to get it to shoot correctly...most of the time I won't work a deal on these ..

2) Barrel lock up..can you see light between the barrel and reciver when it it is fully locked up?You need to hold it up to the light to see this...This can be fixed...but I want to inspect it further...see below..

3) Uneven wear on the barrels chamber or on the reciever...if the gun looks used...and both the chamber and reciever have perfect blueing..but the ejector/extractor look bright and shiny showing wear...you'll need to try to wipe off the chamber end of the barrel or look real close for a different color than the rest of the bluing...it's a old trick some resellers use to make the gun less used than it actually is....not all of them are honest...just like not all that sell to them are honest...and they may have a doctored gun without knowing it...You'll always have some wearing of the blueing on the reciever and barrel...

4) Barrel movement on the hinge pin...does it wiggle side to side or front and back with the forearm on it?...Here's a biggy...Ask if you can take or if they would take the forearm off of it and check it...or if they could show you how to dis-assemble it...if they will allow it..check for mis-matched serial numbers on the barrel and reciever while it's off to make sure it's original...you don't want to buy a mis-matched reciever and barrel unless you know that it is...sometimes it happens...and with all of the e-bay sales of different barrels going on by folks...you can never be sure unless you look...A-lot of dealers will allow this...but there are some who refuse for 1 reason or another...if they refuse...I walk away...

5)Look closely at the latch shelf on the barrel...is the mark  even all the way across the shelf and is it about 1/8" in dept?...It needs to be and if it isn't could indicate a poor latch engagement...This can be fixed...

A-lot of gun show dealers are from out of state...and they have a no-return policy or " As Is" policy...and you need to know if something is wrong with it...before you leave the booth with it...and if something is out of place on it..and you still want it...having a good knowledge of them can help you negotiate the price...cause if they don't want to haggle on the price and something is wrong with it and I don't think I can fix it properly...I would walk away from it...

Mac

[cheatermk3]

Mac made some good points--here's one I learned about the hard way:

Take a good look at the place on the standing breach that the extractor rubs against as the action is being closed.  This wear mark in the blueing should be the full width of the extractor and even across the face of the breach.  A wear mark in the bluing that is off-center, or heavier on one side, or (as in the case of my 25-06) only about 1/4th the width of the extractor indicates a serious alignment issue either in the underlug or the hinge pin, or both.

Good luck!

[aulrich]

Mac

You should (if you have not done so already) make a sticky out of your last post a buyers guide I think would be useful.

[bulldurham]

some really good info here   i was at a gun show a few yrs ago looking at some colt .45 autos i had it down to 2 stainless series 70's (love the series 70's mark 4's one of the pistols was about a 100 bucks cheaper but the feller wouldnt let me take it apart so i walked away and bought the other one(i had a minor ejection prob i fixed easily) well a buddy i was with traded a glock and some cash for the other one he went home and called me after he tore it apart the guy had used a center punch to tighten the rails on it.

[bladerunner]

2nd vote for makin Mac's popst a sticky......GREAT advice,Mac      

[doc623]

That's were having a good understanding of the Handi's comes in...and having a small bore lite along with you at gunshows or whenever you go looking at gunshops is always a good idea.Here's how I do it...and what I look for..

Things to look for on a used Handi besides the obvious wear and tear they have.....

1) Barrel and chamber pitting...a badly pitted chamber and bore says the gun wasn't cared for...and could be a problem to correct or to get it to shoot correctly...most of the time I won't work a deal on these ..

2) Barrel lock up..can you see light between the barrel and reciver when it it is fully locked up?You need to hold it up to the light to see this...This can be fixed...but I want to inspect it further...see below..

3) Uneven wear on the barrels chamber or on the reciever...if the gun looks used...and both the chamber and reciever have perfect blueing..but the ejector/extractor look bright and shiny showing wear...you'll need to try to wipe off the chamber end of the barrel or look real close for a different color than the rest of the bluing...it's a old trick some resellers use to make the gun less used than it actually is....not all of them are honest...just like not all that sell to them are honest...and they may have a doctored gun without knowing it...You'll always have some wearing of the blueing on the reciever and barrel...

4) Barrel movement on the hinge pin...does it wiggle side to side or front and back with the forearm on it?...Here's a biggy...Ask if you can take or if they would take the forearm off of it and check it...or if they could show you how to dis-assemble it...if they will allow it..check for mis-matched serial numbers on the barrel and reciever while it's off to make sure it's original...you don't want to buy a mis-matched reciever and barrel unless you know that it is...sometimes it happens...and with all of the e-bay sales of different barrels going on by folks...you can never be sure unless you look...A-lot of dealers will allow this...but there are some who refuse for 1 reason or another...if they refuse...I walk away...

5)Look closely at the latch shelf on the barrel...is the mark  even all the way across the shelf and is it about 1/8" in dept?...It needs to be and if it isn't could indicate a poor latch engagement...This can be fixed...

A-lot of gun show dealers are from out of state...and they have a no-return policy or " As Is" policy...and you need to know if something is wrong with it...before you leave the booth with it...and if something is out of place on it..and you still want it...having a good knowledge of them can help you negotiate the price...cause if they don't want to haggle on the price and something is wrong with it and I don't think I can fix it properly...I would walk away from it...

Mac

How can the barrel lockup be fixed?
Have a .45 cal. muzzleloader that has approx a dollar bill gap when the barrel is closed.
Any info would be greatly appreciated.
This is an old huntsman; not used much; and never heavy loads - 70-80 gr.
Thnks in advance.