Author Topic: Beginner Reloading Info Needed.  (Read 1026 times)

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Offline Thunder38849

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Beginner Reloading Info Needed.
« on: July 11, 2004, 09:26:35 AM »
I am about to take the first steps in reloading.   I need some info on the components of reloading.   I have decided to start with the Lee Anniversary Kit.  Does anyone know if the kit has the essentials to start reloading, or will I have to buy other things not in the kit?  Does it contain the needed dies?

   In due time I will invest in a tumbler, calipers and other handy things, but right now I plan to load new brass and experiment with various powders to try to get the utmost accuracy.

  Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

  Thanks,
Livin' Life, 3000 fps at a time.

Offline New Hampshire

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« Reply #1 on: July 11, 2004, 11:04:53 AM »
Ahhh Thunder this is a subject we all will love to chime in on.

First, the kit does not come with dies.  You will need to get some.  Thankfully they run the gammut of price from cheap to ultra expensive.  Stick with Lee dies and you will get good quality dies for great savings.

Second:  Your gonna need calipers right away (how else ya gonna know how long that cartridge is  :) .)  If your doing rifle rounds your gonna need a case trimmer, no buts about it.  Pistol you can usually get away with not needing one.  Safety glasses are also a must (I usually forget this one because my safety glasses are on my face always....except for sleeping of course.)  Also, you will need a manual, two is better, three is great.....the more the best.  You said no case tumbler right away.  Thats fine, but you will probably want some form of cleaner (there are some fine liquid ones available,) for those "dirtier" cases.  


If Ive forgot something someone else will chime in, but I believe the rest the Lee kit supplies you with.
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Offline Thunder38849

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« Reply #2 on: July 11, 2004, 11:49:48 AM »
Thanks for the reply, New Hampshire!

   The info is very much appreciated!   When I say I am new to reloading, I mean, VERY new.   I have never even saw anyone reload a cartridge before, so I am going into this very blindly.

   I found a download link for Hodgdon's Basic Reloaders Manual, downloaded it and printed.   I have been looking for other manual downloads but can't seem to find any.  IF anyone knows of any download sites I would be grateful for the link.

  My plans are to buy new cases, load those and then reload the cases when spent.   How many times can I reload the same cases?

   I have about 2.2 million questions....lol
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Offline New Hampshire

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« Reply #3 on: July 11, 2004, 02:09:46 PM »
Quote from: Thunder38849
Thanks for the reply, New Hampshire!

     My plans are to buy new cases, load those and then reload the cases when spent.   How many times can I reload the same cases?

 


This depends really.  You will have guys here tellin ya how they have reloaded .45 ACP so many times the headstamp has begun wearing out.  Thats got to be in the DOZENS of times.  On the other hand some guys will tell you about there .22-250 that gives im maybe 4 reloads before they are shot.  Bottlenecked rifle, as a generalization, tends to last less longer than staright walled rifle or pistol rounds.  

As for info.  I would highly reccomend you get the "ABCs of Reloading."  You can order it from Barnes and Nobles or Amaazon....places like that.  There is no data in it, just straight, helpful info on how to reload rifle and pistol.  When you want data then just hit the major powder manufacturers sites.  They usually give data free of charge.  Some even have mini manuals you can have sent to you free of charge.  You can get so much data on-line you dont really need manuals for that part (though the sections on how to relaod are always invaluable.)  Just be sure to always double and triple cross check with other data sources so any typo does not turn into a disaster.
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Offline Catfish

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« Reply #4 on: July 11, 2004, 03:04:49 PM »
First get someone who has been reloading for a while to help you get started. You can safely be working with presures up to 60,000 psi when reloading, but if you do some thing wrong you can easily get 100,000 psi. which is not safe in any gun. I`ve been reloading since 1965 and have owned alot of Lee equipment over the years, and have never been happy with any of it. There is a very good reason Lee is the cheapest stuff on the market. Get a RCBS starter kit, it will last you a life time. Between rifle, handgun and shotgun I load around 15,000 a year, I shoot alot and I want the best ammo I can get and also want it cheap. I would recomand that you pick up a Layman Reloading manual. They have more info. for new reloaders than any other manual I`ve found, They also make good reloading presses. Have fun and be safe with your reloading. Get someone close to you that knows what he`s doing to help get you started in the right direction.

Offline grizz

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« Reply #5 on: July 11, 2004, 06:15:18 PM »
Thunder,


 First off welcome to the world of reloading!!! Be for warned its VERY addicting!!!  You got some good info so far.. I also recommend the ABC's of Reloading it is a excellent book... As far as calipers go you can get away without them.. I loaded for more years then I can remember before I got a set and then the only reason was because a friend gave them to me!!! They do come in handy but not really needed... As far as how many firings per case that all depends.. IF you anneal the brass you could get a few more firings out of them.. I load them till they either split or the primer pocket gets to big to hold the primer.. Can be as many as 10 times or more or as little as 2 times... My main Long Range hunting load is alittle on the HOT side and usually get about 2 firings if im lucky before the necks split on me.. If you know of anybody that reloads I suggest getting together with them and let them show you how its done..  I was kind of lucky my father used to reload and got started in reloading when I was about 5 with dads watchfull eye!!! Now he doesnt reload anylonger but thats only because I load all his ammo for him..  I would also get as many manuals as you can afford!! I have just about all the manufactures that makes manuals.. Even if your not planning on shooting their bullets its good to have for the info!!! For instance I dont shoot Barnes bullets but I still own their manuals!!  The main thing is READ READ READ the more you read the more you will understand.. Another thing is ask questions here on anything you are unsure of... There is no stupid questions when it comes to reloading.. It is a very fun hobbie but it can be dangerous as well...

Offline Thunder38849

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« Reply #6 on: July 11, 2004, 08:00:51 PM »
Thanks to all of you for the informative replies.    I am grateful for the advice!!!

   Let me know if you all think this would be a good idea or not.   After I experiment with different loads and find the one I like most, I plan on buying 1000 pieces of brass and loading those.    1000 rounds should last me through the summer.   I figure it would be better to buy 1000 than a smaller amount and have to reload more often which will sooner or later wear out the brass.

   Here's a question for you.    When you buy brand new brass, is it ready to load? Or does it need to be cleaned or something?   I know these newbie questions may seem self explanatory, but I wanna get started in this 110% correct!

  Thanks again for the help.... I really appreciate it!

P.S.   I have several calibers I want to load for....   .223, .270, .308, .300 Wby Mag and .270 WSM   I plan on beginning with the .223  which is a NEF Handi Rifle.    Anyone have any recommended loads for this particular caliber?

Thanks
Livin' Life, 3000 fps at a time.

Offline New Hampshire

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« Reply #7 on: July 12, 2004, 12:06:48 PM »
Your gonna want to full length size your new brass.  Thats about all the "prep" you will need to do.  You picked a good rifle round to start with.  The .223 offers good flexability all around when it comes to components, data, and overall loading.  A good powder to start with is Varget from Hogdon.  Its a very forgiving powder, gives reasonably low pressures for same velocities, and is pretty accurate.  The plus side of it giving lower than normal pressures means you get a little more life from your brass.  Depending on how much you shoot, 1000 rounds should last quite a while.  You can extend your case life a little more by neck sizing instead of full length, but it may or may not help increase accuracy.....its one of those wierd things in reloading.  Annealing will also help too, but most people dont bother with the effort.  If your looking for ultra mega accuracy then its worth trying.  Dont know what exactly you want the gun to do, so I cant quite yet reccomend a bullet.  But a good place to start, wether punching paper or killing g-hogs any of the polymer tipped spire points are great.
Im sure youll have more Q's, so fire away  :wink: .
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Offline Thunder38849

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« Reply #8 on: July 12, 2004, 05:55:06 PM »
How did you ever guess I would have more questions?...LOL

 
As for the intended purpose of the ammo.   Anything from paper to g-hogs, coyotes, fox, etc etc.  I would like a super accurate bullet out to 250 yards.

  Ok... what is annealing?  Never heard of it.   I am going this weekend and get the recommended books you guys have mentioned.   I feel all out of place talking about this.   Ain't it fun being a newbie?  LOL

  What brand of cases are the best?  And primers?

  Thanks again for the help!
Livin' Life, 3000 fps at a time.

Offline grizz

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« Reply #9 on: July 12, 2004, 06:03:11 PM »
This should give ya a idea on what Annealing is..

http://www.logicsouth.com/~lcoble/dir7/articlef.txt

Most accurate bullet will depend on your gun.. For the 223 I like the 55gr. Hornady V-max...  Cant offer any advice on the other cals only because I dont shot them..  I prefer light and fast..  I only own 2 rifles bigger then 7mm  and thats a 45/70, and a 356Win..

Offline warf73

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« Reply #10 on: July 12, 2004, 11:15:29 PM »
Just something else to throw in.
On your new brass measure it.
I bought 2 different lots of Remington brass this year in 300wby and all the cases were .010-.015 longer than MAX call out.

It's just something you might do.
I didn't make it a habbit to measure new brass but after that I do.
I couldn't figure out why my same ol load wouldn't chamber in my rifle so I started tracing my steps back and then I found the problem.

You keep asking questions these guys are great I even learn some new stuff now and then  :-D
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Offline dave375hh

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« Reply #11 on: July 13, 2004, 04:08:49 AM »
Thunderer, The Varmint Hunter Mag. has a good video made by the former Pres of VHA, John Laroquette(the actor) and Jim Charmichel. It's a two vol. set(begining and advanced) for $38.00. Seeing it done helps you understand what your reading in the manuals.
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Offline Thunder38849

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« Reply #12 on: July 13, 2004, 04:24:34 AM »
Thanks, Guys!

   I think I will pass on the annealing until I get some major experience.  It sounds like something a beginner might not want to get into without the in person guidance of someone who knows what they are doing.

  Thanks for the link, Grizz!  Will the V-Max bullet hold together fairly well?  In other words, would it be suitable for larger game should the need arise???

  I read on the NEF forum that the Handi Rifle has a twist rate of 1-12, should I limit my cartridges to 55 grain bullets?

      Warf, thanks for the info.   I plan to buy some calipers when I get the kit.  I figured I would have to do something to the new brass... I am not lucky enough to get to start loading as soon as I get it....LOL


  Dave, I'll check into those videos.   I called a local loader yesterday.  He told me to feel free to come watch him anytime.   That is very much appreciated.
Livin' Life, 3000 fps at a time.

Offline New Hampshire

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« Reply #13 on: July 13, 2004, 02:06:58 PM »
No the V-Max are not suitable for large game.  Anything from Coyote sized up (at least Im my opinion,) should be done with heavier hollowpoints.  There are a number available for the .223 going up to the 68 grain weight.  As for twist rate.  Unless your looking to punch bug-holes in the papaer at 100 yards I would not worry too much about it.  You are probably gonna get wider groupings at longer ranges with the heavier bullets, but nothing that You would probably deem unacceptable.
Good luck,
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Offline grizz

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« Reply #14 on: July 13, 2004, 02:54:16 PM »
Thunder,

 The Vmax for deer size game is up to the shooter.. I have killed roughly 12 deer with them and they NEVER whent more then a step or 2 with my 223.. However there are alot of people that will tell you NOT to use them.. I tried them and they have worked every single time!!! But that choice is up to you.. Bullet placement is the key!!!!

Offline Thunder38849

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« Reply #15 on: July 14, 2004, 08:13:34 PM »
Hey.... More helpful info.   Thanks!!

  I have been looking at different bullets and found some Barnes XLC.  Anyone know anything about these?
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Offline New Hampshire

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« Reply #16 on: July 15, 2004, 02:15:24 PM »
They are Copper solid bullets.  They have a coating (which is not moly) that reduces friction thus creating plus benifits.  But they are expensive, and if you feel the plusses add up then you should be fine to go with them.  Ive heard lots of good things about copper solids made these days.  But the cost has pretty much turned me away.
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Offline Thunder38849

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« Reply #17 on: July 16, 2004, 10:52:02 AM »
I see what you mean about the price, N.H.!!!   I think I will start out with the V-Max and go from there.  

Thanks,
Livin' Life, 3000 fps at a time.