Author Topic: Percussion Caps (Read 1934 times)

dominick · « **on:** January 07, 2006, 08:59:55 AM »

Has anyone used .22 caliber rimfire blanks as percussion caps for firing large bore cannons or are 209 shotgun primers or #11's better?

jeeper1 · « **Reply #1 on:** January 07, 2006, 09:09:57 AM »

My opinion is that #11's are better because they are easier to fire. I prefer fuse, myself.

Evil Dog · « **Reply #2 on:** January 07, 2006, 09:20:48 AM »

Personally I use either fuse or quick match.... were I to use percussion caps though it would probably be those huge "top hat" musket caps.

Cat Whisperer · « **Reply #3 on:** January 07, 2006, 09:28:19 AM »

Quote from: dominick

Has anyone used .22 caliber rimfire blanks as percussion caps for firing large bore cannons or are 209 shotgun primers or #11's better?

For the #11's (and the larger musket caps) you can BUY (in steel or stainless) a nipple. That makes the design decision easy for me.

guardsgunner · « **Reply #4 on:** January 07, 2006, 11:55:29 AM »

I have used both. Like them equaly. Fast and reliable, even in the rain.
Use .22 blanks most.
Some time ago,intodeep( I think ) posted some pictures of an English navl gun which had a neat method of firing caps on a nipple which could swing out of the way to use fuse. A great set-up. Wish I could find it .

Tropico · « **Reply #5 on:** January 07, 2006, 03:12:19 PM »

Personally I wouldnt go with a cap unless its a custom cannon or a cannon design after the 1840's ., for example I would keep a napoleon style cannon or a 6 pounder or older without a cap. I prefer a slowmatch. I have had a few experiences with fuse not firing when expected or sputtering along at varied speeds or perhaps not firing the gun leaving me to deal with that. I have never had slowmatch ignition failure or fuse suspense ? with a slowmatch. For myself I feel the slowmatch give me better control ., when we want to fire the gun .,it fires.
However pulling a cord and dropping the hammer can be alot of fun too especially with a civil war gun.

Blaster · « **Reply #6 on:** January 07, 2006, 03:37:00 PM »

For those of mine with a nipple in the vent - Musket Caps. And those with just a plain vent - fuze. I like em both! With the musket caps, I don't have to be quite as concerned about starting a fire like I do with that molten fuze getting blown out of the vent.
Blaster (Bob in So. CO)

dominick · « **Reply #7 on:** January 08, 2006, 03:23:30 AM »

Thanks everyone!

Cpt Ed · « **Reply #8 on:** January 08, 2006, 04:18:15 PM »

Quote from: guardsgunner

Some time ago,intodeep( I think ) posted some pictures of an English navl gun which had a neat method of firing caps on a nipple which could swing out of the way to use fuse. A great set-up. Wish I could find it .

Here are the images of the English naval cannon's percussion firing lock.

guardsgunner · « **Reply #9 on:** January 09, 2006, 08:26:58 AM »

Thank for finding this posting.

dominick · « **Reply #10 on:** January 09, 2006, 11:37:06 AM »

The swing away nipple looks like a good idea for making sure the vent hole is clear and for pricking the charge without the need for a nipple wrench.

Does anyone know if I use a .22 blank for a percussion cap will it expell from the vent hole violently when the cannon is fired or will the hammer hold it in place? Dom

guardsgunner · « **Reply #11 on:** January 09, 2006, 11:50:50 AM »

As with friction primers, they a launched to parts unknown. I dont thik they go very high as I have gad them land near the gun.

Cat Whisperer · « **Reply #12 on:** January 09, 2006, 01:13:43 PM »

Quote from: guardsgunner

As with friction primers, they a launched to parts unknown. I dont thik they go very high as I have gad them land near the gun.

I've (once in a while) had hammers moved back to 1/2 cock position in .50 cal blackpowder rifles.

Does not the .22 blank have a bit more powder than a #11 cap?

If I'm not mistaken, there are semi-automatic blank pistols in .22 caliber. Pulling back the slide would give an indication of the amount of force provided by the blank.

I'd be concerned about small metal fragments (generally contained by the shroud in the hammer on the #11 and musket caps).

guardsgunner · « **Reply #13 on:** January 09, 2006, 01:51:37 PM »

Yes I think the .22 's have a little more kick. As for the frag off the #11's, they are not really contained by the hammer just deflected in a safe direction. This can often be seen appears around the nipple and a burned residue on top wood over the lock.
There is a picture of my gun here somewhere I will see if I can find it and bring to the top.

jeeper1 · « **Reply #14 on:** January 09, 2006, 01:55:18 PM »

Something not yet mentioned is the accuracy in the lockworks needed to fire a blank cartridge, rimfire or centerfire. The flatface of the hammer for musket caps or #11 caps means there can be looser tolerances in the lockwork compared to having to hit a primer in a specific spot.
Also the power needed to crush a primer disc in a #11 or musket cat is a lot less than what is needed to deform a rimfire case or primer cup.

guardsgunner · « **Reply #15 on:** January 09, 2006, 02:14:53 PM »

Didn't seem like an issue to me. There are no Lockworks speal of. Just a hammer on a pivot, pulled by a string. Mount the hammer then put a striker in the face of the hammer that hits rear edge of the blank.