help....problem with 7-30 waters load

[contenderX]

I'm trying to load 120gr ballistic tips into once fired 7-30 waters brass.  I'm using 31gr of AA 2015 and a RCBS neck size set.  The problem is, when I try to seat the bullet, it sits on the powder and the neck is loose.  When I try to seat a bullet without the powder, it's tight to begin with but when I try to move it down to get under the max cartridge length (2.550) the bullet falls down into the case.  I'm fairly new to rifle reloading...if that isn't already apparent ...but I'd appreciate the help.  Thanks

[John Traveler1]

You are describing a condition caused by insufficient neck sizing, thin case necks, or overexpanding the neck.  Try measuring your expander stem.  It should measure about 0.001" inch smaller than the nominal 0.284" of 7mm bullets.

The easiest solution is to remove the neck expander stem and simply neck size your cases without the expanding neck.  That should give you much tighter bullet-to-neck assembly.

If the bullets still fit too loose, give RCBS a call with your problem.  They will exchange your die set with one that fits at no charge.

[Steve P]

The problem is, when I try to seat the bullet, it sits on the powder and the neck is loose.  When I try to seat a bullet without the powder, it's tight to begin with but when I try to move it down to get under the max cartridge length (2.550) the bullet falls down into the case.  

The 120 Ballitstic Tips have a different ogive than the flat point bullets normally used in the Waters.  You cannot seat that 120 down into the case to max oal as it WILL fall into the case.  Maximum seating depth of the 120 Ballistic tip should be the base of the bullet even with the base of the neck.  You can partially seat a bullet then hold up a second bullet beside the round to see how deep you are putting it.  The over-all cartridge length will be longer than book measurement because the Ballistic Tip DOESN'T HAVE THE FLAT POINT.   If you are not checking to see how the round goes into your gun, you may actually seat it too deep.  

What gun are you loading for?  For a Contender or similar, you will want that bullet about .020 off the lands which means it will not be very deep into the neck.  If you are loading for two shots in a lever action, you want that bullet seated out so it just cycles in the action.  

John is in the ball park if your die is indeed bad.  Your decapping pin has an expander ball on it.  It may be  too large.  You can use a decapping pin from a small caliber die and try to see if that helps keep from stretching the neck back out as the brass comes out of the die.  

Confirm some info and we can give better help.

Steve  

[contenderX]

Yes, it is for a contender.  I have been checking the the loads by testing them in my gun but they seem to have a very tight fit.  Which maybe due to me seating them too deep.  I'll try to load them to a longer OAL.

[Steve P]

My contender in 7-30 loves the 150s.
The 120s are just barely seated enough to hold.  
Make a dummy round (sized brass, no primer or powder) and just barely seat the bullet.  Now gently smoke that bullet with a small birthday candle.  See how it chambers in the Contender.  If you get lines in the smoke, set it the seating stem about 1/2 turn deeper.  Try again.  Try until the smoke on the bullet comes out without lines from the rifling.  

Good luck,

Steve  

[contenderX]

Thanks Steve, that worked great.  The rounds chambered fine and the load shot a 5 shot group around an inch at 100 yards.  The only problem I had was that I really had to slam the action shut for the firing pin to make contact with the primer.  If I didn't, it wouldn't even make a mark on the primer.  I took some Federal factory loads and didn't have any problems with them.  I've had this problem before with factory loads on a .375 Winchester barrel on this frame.  Do you think this is a problem with my reloads or is there something wrong with the frame?

[Steve P]

Something is too long with your reloads.  Neck not sized enough, shoulder not bumped enough, high primers.....   Take a fired brass from one of your reloads.  Can you chamber it and make the hammer fall ok?  Do you still have to slam the action shut?

On my rimmed cartridges, I take the barrel off of the frame.  I take a fired brass and put it in the chamber and then hold a straight edge across the brass at the chamber end of the barrel.  Usually, fired brass sticks up just a little.  You can see air gaps and the straight edge will rock a little. This is due to the tolerances with the barrel, frame, hinge pin, etc.

Size the brass and try it again.  You should be able to lay your straight edge across the chamber and not get any rocking.  No air gaps.  If the brass appears low i.e. a gap between straight edge and brass, you are sizing it too much.  

You can check seated primers in the same way.  Put a straight edge across the rim of the sized and primed cases.  If the primer is high i.e. out too far, the straight edge will rock back and forth.

Good luck with that barrel.
You will be down to 1/2" groups soon!!

Steve  

[223Shooter]

Try full length sizing of your cases. In my .223 NEF, accuracy is crap with neck sized loads...BUT full length sized loads are extremely accurate. I NEVER neck size any of my reloads.

[MnMike]

223shooter

I get better groups from my 223 Contender using a Lee Collet neck sizing die than if I full length resize. My .243 Handi Rifle likes the collet die too. My 7-30 Contender hates neck sizing. Part of that may be a bad Hornaday die that leaves the bullet a bit loose. Oh well. different guns different results - reloading seems to part science, part magic.

mike

[Gallahad]

anyone ever try a barnes triple shock bullet in 7-30? They make a solid copper 120 gr. with a tiny hollow point, Im wondering if it would reliably expand at say 2300-2400 fps?