Author Topic: newbie question: what do the numbers 2219 mean? (Read 2158 times)

tallyho · « **on:** June 20, 2006, 09:03:54 AM »

Hi y'all,
I'm new to archery, but have been on GB for some time, mostly hanging out at the NEF/H&R forum.

I just moved from an apartment to a house with a big yard and recently bought an older Bear take-down recurve bow to play with. The guy threw in half a dozen arrows on the deal. The markings on the bow say 30# at 60" and 28# at 66". I understand this relates to the pull weight, but why the difference at different lengths?

The arrows are Easton aluminum. Three of them are marked xx75 Gamegetter, and the other three are xx75 Gamegetter II. In addition they all are marked 2219.

They shoot from this bow with a trajectory about the same as I would get tossing a grapefruit at the target. At 20 ft, if I aim for the center they will hit a cardboard apple box standing on end, right at the bottom of the box. To hit the center I must aim about 2 feet higher than the top of the box.

A friend who knows about archery told me I should have 1916 arrows. I believe him, but I neglected to ask what those numbers meant. He is away out of the country now, so I can't ask him, and am asking somebody here.

I am assuming the 2219 are too heavy and the 1916 are not, but still wonder what the numbers represent.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Graybeard · « **Reply #1 on:** June 20, 2006, 11:07:54 AM »

Your assumptions are not necessarily correct. It might just be you need to "sight in" the box with those arrows. But to more directly answer your question the 22 means the diameter of the shaft is 22/64" and the wall thickness is 0.019" based on the 19 part of the designation.

You need to look up your bow in an arrow chart and then depending on a number of factors such as pull weight, arrow length, type release (fingers or release aid) and type cams it will give you several possible arrows to try.

The fact you need to aim 2' high now only means you're not correctly sighted in with the arrows you're using. With a bow you lower the sight pin to raise point of impact.

tallyho · « **Reply #2 on:** June 20, 2006, 11:40:53 AM »

Bill,
Thanks for the info on what the numbers mean.

I still can't get over the fact that the trajectory is like a rainbow. My son is shooting a small recurve 20# bow and cheap wooden arrows and his fly much farther and flatter than mine.

And I don't have sights, it is just an old model take-down recurve with nothing but an arrow rest. The only accessory I use is a leather finger thingy for release.

I'll track down an arrow chart and see what I can find out.

Cheers
Kerry

mg66 · « **Reply #3 on:** June 21, 2006, 12:59:07 AM »

Getting the correct arrows to fit the bow will probably help. I am not a recurve shooter, I use a compound for hunting but to explain my point here are some figures I put together using a chronograph for my Mathews. It shows the vast difference a lighter arrow or arrow fitted for your bow and a few extra pounds draw weight did for my arrow speed. I assume the same principles would apply to a recurve to some extent.

Aluminum Shafts

Using Easton XX78 SS 2314 aluminum shafts:

Total Arrow Weight = 490 grains
Draw Weight = 65 lbs
Draw Length = 30"

Using a chronograph ? ... 247 fps ... !!!

Carbon shafts

Using Gold Tip 5575 XT Hunter Carbon Shafts:

Total Arrow Weight = 375 grains
Draw Weight = 70 lbs
Draw Length = 30"

Using a chronograph ? ... 283 fps ... !

Bottom line is for the same length arrow but going 115 grains lighter and a 5lb increase in draw length increased speed by nearly 40 fps therefore creating a much flatter trajectory when comparing a 20, 30 and 40 yard shot. Because it is a much flatter trajectory if I take a 30 yard shot at a deer aiming right in the middle of the kill zone and in the heat of the moment with the adrenaline pumping I use the wrong pin, say my 40 yard pin I will hit approximately 2" higher but very much still in the kill zone. A flat trajectory is good

By using an arrow chart and/or by speaking with your local archery shop pro you can ascertain the right minimum length and smallest arrow size (diameter and wall thickness) that can be used safely for your bow and setup.

tallyho · « **Reply #4 on:** June 21, 2006, 06:11:00 AM »

mg66
I appreciate your going to the trouble of giving me this info. I'll certainly do more reasearch.

Thanks

jgalar · « **Reply #5 on:** June 21, 2006, 04:28:11 PM »

I have a 30lb recurve that I shoot 29" arrows from. My length of pull is 28". I am shooting 1816 Gamegetter2s and they are a little stiff - I would be better off with 1716s. Unless you are shooting long arrows the 1916s will probably be too stiff in spine. I have found the Easton charts to be way heavy in spine.

I have an old compound set at 45lbs and the 1916 work perfect with it. My new (fast) PSE Dakota uses 2016 with 50lb pull. According to the Easton charts I am about 2 steps underspine with everything I shoot.

jgalar · « **Reply #6 on:** June 21, 2006, 04:55:13 PM »

On your bow markings:
The bow you have probably had options for different limbs and different length risers. If the markings you are talking about are on the limbs it means with the short riser (total bow length 60") you will have 30lbs at 28" pull length. If you have the longer riser (66" total bow length) the same limbs will have 28lbs at 28" pull.

Which ever you have you will need very weak spined arrows to get it to shoot right. The bassproshops and cabelas will not stock the spine arrows that you need.