Author Topic: I wana k31 (Read 1236 times)

Cheesehead · « **on:** February 19, 2006, 01:04:36 PM »

How much can I expect to pay for a k31 in good to great condition? I understand they are well made durable and accurate. Where would be the best place to shop for one? What do you look for in a quality example?

jh45gun · « **Reply #1 on:** February 19, 2006, 06:44:18 PM »

All depends if you have a curio and relic license or not. IF you do places like SOG, or AIM or Century have been carrying them for around a 100 bucks or some lower some higher depending on condition and what is left. I have heard that supplies are dwindleing and that could be true as they did not make as many of these as other milsurps. Then when you about think they are gone a other small shipment shows up but these will not last forever so it is a good idea to get one now. If you do not have a license some local pawn shops may sell them or I have seen Dunhams sell them. Duluth MN has a Dunhams I know. Not sure if WI has any of them or not. Stocks are either beech or walnut I prefer walnut that is what I have but you may not get a chance to be choosy and have to take what you may find. Stocks may be good or some what beat up but they can be fixed. The metal is usually in good shape to great shape and I have not seen a bad bore in one yet. They shoot excellent and are a neat rifle. THey would make a good whitetail rifle!

Here is a link for the Dunhams Sports stores in WI. Just click on the find a store and then click on WI
http://www.dunhamssports.com/corp/index.jsp

Now if you cannot get one on sale Dunhams normally sell these for 150 bucks which is a bit high then what you may order mail order if you have a license but then think of it this way if you pay for hand pick you pay more and you get to do the picking so for a 150 bucks for one that you can pick out of few rifles what ever they have on hand ( I would say 4 0r 5 normally in stock that is not a bad deal and if you get one on Sale for 99 bucks even better but I would not wait too long for them to go on sale as who knows what is left. As you see by this total production is quite small for a military arm. Barrel Length - 25.65 inches: 4-groove, RH, concentric rifling, 1 in 10.63
Overall Length - 43.6 inches
Weight - 8.85lbs empty
Action - Straight Pull Bolt Action
Caliber - 7.5x55 Swiss (GP11)
Capacity - 6 round detachable box magazine
Sights - Tangent-leaf sight graduated to 1500m
Total Production - 528,230

Any other questions feel free to PM me.

1911crazy · « **Reply #2 on:** February 20, 2006, 12:05:18 PM »

Sorry first i can't post then it doubles my post.

1911crazy · « **Reply #3 on:** February 20, 2006, 12:08:27 PM »

Were getting close to the bottom of the barrel on these right now so don't wait too long. Out of the four i just received the best one came from Samco its excellent condition swiss k31 is excellent. The second & third best ones came from AIM Surplus. The worst one came from Century Arms it was the oldest too ($89) 1937 with a walnut stock. They do refinish awesome too if you plan on refinishing it. The bluing is perfect much better than the condition of the wood. All the bores look the same their in excellent condition because they were never used in a war nor had corrosive ammo shot out of them. I must say some of the bolts feel much better than the others so all of them aren't the same swiss quality.

Cheesehead · « **Reply #4 on:** February 20, 2006, 04:26:05 PM »

I went to Dunhams in Rice Lake Wi and had my pick of three k31s. These guns are facinating and unusual. I picked out the one that seemed the best for 99 bucks, very cool. Now I need ammo or brass and dies. Dont know much about this gun, but learning is the fun part. The bore looks great and the action seems tight. The stock is not walnut and is in rough shape. I do not know what to do about the stock yet and open for suggestions. Thanks for your help guys!!

jack19512 · « **Reply #5 on:** February 21, 2006, 02:38:39 AM »

The stocks on mine were rough too. With a little work yours can look like this. :grin:

jack19512 · « **Reply #6 on:** February 21, 2006, 02:47:48 AM »

The butt plates on both of mine were in real bad shape, looked like someone had used them for a walking cane. Here is what they look like now. :grin:

jack19512 · « **Reply #7 on:** February 21, 2006, 03:10:10 AM »

I reload for the K31. It is easy and fun to reload the Berdan primed Swiss brass. I am working up my loads and here is my latest 3 shot group shot from 60-70 yards.

Cheesehead · « **Reply #8 on:** February 21, 2006, 01:04:00 PM »

Great photos, I am in awe. How about some refinishing tips. This rifle with the straight pull bolt seems like it was designed for a scope long before scopes were popular. Tell me more about the scope base and mounting hardware. I get more excited over a rifle like this than some of the $1000+ guns have have bought in the past! Thanks for your help. I have downloaded and printed the military manual so dis assembly and reassembly should be a snap.

1911crazy · « **Reply #9 on:** February 21, 2006, 02:21:26 PM »

I refinish my Swiss k31's like this;

If the stock is in really rough shape I will use 100grit paper first, then go over the whole stock lightly just to clean off all the old finish. Once its done i will switch to 150grit paper and do it all again, then its done to 220 grit paper and repeat and finally its 320 grit paper. Then I will stain the stock with Behlen MASTER solar lux stain in Yellow Light Orange if its a beech stock it will match the orginal color perfectly. Then i go over the stock polishing it with a coarse steelwool. Then i take the 320 paper and go over the sanding marks i missed. Then i will stain it again and go over it again with the coarse steelwool. Now check the stock over to make sure its clean and looks good. If the color is good I will let it sit overnite if not i will restain it again to darken it. Now after its been sitting overnite to dry I go over the stock with the 0000 steelwool and now its ready to apply the Formby's Tung Oil Finish I like the gloss finish. After each coat let it sit at least 24hrs then go over it with 0000 steelwool again and wipe it clean then reapply the formby's again and repeat until you get the finish you want. It will soak in for a few coats and look uneven at first but the more coats you apply of the formbys it will get a more even look as you go. I find that 5 to 8 coats and it can be up to 10 coats too because i apply the formbys very thin with a soft rag like 1" X 1 1/2" rag folded up. Don't apply the formby's too thick thinner is better. Now after its dry for about a week you can go over it with 0000 steelwool very lightly to dull it then apply the johnsons wood paste wax.

On the hand grooves in the stock if you sand them they open up and look like crap I try to use a coarse steelwool to clean them up and maybe 220 paper lightly. Just don't sand them too much try to stain it first to see if it blends in and most of the time it does when the finish is off.

On the oily soaked stocks i may use 60grit or 80grit but just go lightly so you don't dig holes try to move in an even pattern as the wood cleans up. Just sand until the paper is full and them change paper and move to the next spot just do one little spot at a time as even as possible with the course paper. You can do larger areas with the fine paper to over lap them and tie them all together smooth. Feel the wood was you go it will speak to you as it gets better like a fine peice of furnature.

I don't like to refinish all my stocks but the swiss stocks cry out to me to do them. I have no clue why the bluing on the metal looks so good when the wood looks so beat up. I did notice that on all of them the bores look excellent and the wood numbers do match too.

I'll post some pics in the album section here so you can see how the color looks.

jh45gun · « **Reply #10 on:** February 21, 2006, 03:55:07 PM »

Most Milsurp stocks are banged to to some degree as they were used and sometimes hard. Now from what I have heard is a lot but not all of the Swiss rifles including the K31 seen duty in the snowy mountains there by their mountain troops. These guns were stacked in the snow at night that is what that rod is for at the end of the barrel. Anyway these troops wore boots with hobnails ( My best explanation for them) for traction so they would not slip and in the morning would give the stocks a kick to get the snow off of them. Not sure if this is gospel but that is what I have read on the net.

jh45gun · « **Reply #11 on:** February 21, 2006, 04:01:14 PM »

As far as reloading goes I would not mess with berdan primers too much grief finding them and getting them out of the case. It is much easier to buy Wolf ammo made by Privi Partisan though I have not seen that yet? and the stuff made by Privi Partsian sold by Grafs or if Grafs has any brass in stock they did have but not sure about now. The easiest way is to get a set of Dies Lee works fine and buy and resize some Win 284 brass. The only trick to this is to lube a case and size it then while still in the die if the shell casing is not touching the end of the die then adjust it until it does with the case in the die. Now you can resize 284 brass and it works great. I found no difference between the converted 284 brass than I did over the 20 7.5x55 Grafs cases I have. Forgot to add this caliber you can use .308 diameter bullets.

Cheesehead · « **Reply #12 on:** February 22, 2006, 11:44:54 AM »

Thank for the pics and the tips. I am interested in scope hardware also. I am new to this forum and am very impressed the variety of subjects and all the helpful people involved.

Thanks Again!

jack19512 · « **Reply #13 on:** February 22, 2006, 06:19:26 PM »

Posted by jh45gun

"As far as reloading goes I would not mess with berdan primers too much grief finding them and getting them out of the case."

Sorry, I would have to disagree with you on this one. I find it extremely easy to reload the Swiss Berdan primed brass. I can't figure out why some say it is a lot of trouble. Maybe I am just extremely talented but I don't think so. I deprimed over 100 cases while watching TV. Not saying there is anything wrong with going with Boxer primed brass though. Just don't see any need to waste the good Swiss brass.

The Berdan primers are harder to get. I got mine from Graff's. Ordered a box of 1000 and it will last me a long time. They are out now but I called them a while back and at the time they said they would be getting more in. I plan on reloading the Berdan primed 8mm brass I have too.

Here is a pic of my sophisticated Berdan decapping tool. The board, a shell holder, decapping tool and a little water is all that is needed. Works great for me. Very easy. :grin:

jack19512 · « **Reply #14 on:** February 22, 2006, 06:29:47 PM »

The scope mount I have right now is a Darrell's scout mount. It works good but I think I would rather have a receiver mount. If you notice the scope on mine is a regular scope, not a scout type scope. I put it on at the time because it's all I had on hand. It's not perfect but works OK for now until I can afford the right scope.

jack19512 · « **Reply #15 on:** February 22, 2006, 07:08:04 PM »

When I refinished my stocks I used a DA sander(I am a woodworker also) on low speed and fine grit sandpaper to do the initial sanding. I hand sanded the areas I couldn't get to with the sander.

Have you ever steamed any stocks before? After the initial sanding I steamed all of the dents and dings I could and you wouldn't believe how many you can fix this way.

I used Formby's High Gloss Tung Oil Finish I purchased from my local Walmart. All I did was when I was satisfied with the sanding I used a damp(not soaking wet) cloth to wipe the wood down good and applied my first coat of finish.

I use paper towels and the light duty rubber gloves like they use in hospitals, my wife is a RN at our local hospital. :grin:

I would apply a coat and let it dry good. Don't try to apply a thick coat, just wipe it on thin. When it is dry, usually around 24 hours I use 600 grit sandpaper to LIGHTLY sand the wood. Actually it's more like wiping the wood.I like to use the sandpaper like they use in auto body shops.

I use this kind of sandpaper to do all of my finish sanding. After using the sandpaper I always use a damp cloth to wipe the wood down again. Always making sure you keep your rag rinsed and clean as possible. I think I put about 7 or 8 coats on. I didn't sand the final coat. Make sure you know where you are going to put your wood while it is drying.

1911crazy · « **Reply #16 on:** February 23, 2006, 04:49:01 AM »

Reloading the military berdan primed cases is becomming more popular lately I guess its the better quality military brass. Some of the reproduction(copy) brass just isn't exactly right. There are tools made for decapping berdan primed cases and you can even make your own by using a rod that just fits in the case thgru the bullet bore and goes all the way to the bottom. You fill the case with water then use the hrdraulic force to push the primer out. There is berdan replacement primers offered now too.

jack19512 · « **Reply #17 on:** February 24, 2006, 06:41:35 AM »

I should add that had I not had so much of the Swiss brass on hand I too probably would have just bought the Boxer primed brass.

I have 2 of the 480 round Swiss ammo packs in storage and had shot about 200 rounds of the individual packs of ammo. So I just couldn't justify buying brass when I have so much excellent brass already.

Cheesehead · « **Reply #18 on:** February 24, 2006, 11:50:32 AM »

OK. I now have 2 k31s. Could not resist the sale a Dunhams for 99 bucks. One is to restore as an original example and one is to customize to a high degree into a scoped sporter version. Receiver scope mounting hardware is my next quest.

jack19512 · « **Reply #19 on:** February 24, 2006, 01:10:20 PM »

Do you like this? :grin:

qajaq59 · « **Reply #20 on:** February 24, 2006, 01:35:53 PM »

I think the K31 is the only rifle that I've ever been able to shoot ballentines with using the old army iron sights. I got it at Samco for $141 with tax roughly a month ago, wiped it off with a damp cloth, put on a little furniture polish and headed for the range.
That 64 year old gun shot like a dream and I had the soldier's name tag under the butt plate which just added to the fun.
Since then I have begun loading for it and so far I have one accurate load but I'll work on a few more.

Cheesehead · « **Reply #21 on:** February 24, 2006, 06:38:46 PM »

WOW! Jack,When I said "customize to a high degree" you have" been there, done that". Tell me about the long range accuracy and the scope mounting hardware. Also, I bought some Graf 7.5x55 brass at a gun show today for 39 bucks a 100. Who makes this brass and is it a good deal?

Thanks to every one for the info.

Cheesehead

jack19512 · « **Reply #22 on:** February 25, 2006, 03:04:20 AM »

Sorry, the K31 in the pic is not mine. It belongs to a guy on another forum. I can find out more info on it for you if you want. The stocks on both of mine are in too good shape to do that to them.

The only brass that Graf's lists for the K31 is Norma brass, 100 @ $85.45. So it looks like you got a good deal if it is the Norma brass. Norma brass is suppose to be very good brass.

http://www.grafs.com/metallic/775

jack19512 · « **Reply #23 on:** February 25, 2006, 03:10:08 AM »

http://www.swissrifles.com/~swiss-sights/

jack19512 · « **Reply #24 on:** February 25, 2006, 03:13:11 AM »

http://www.grafs.com/search?q=STDTSP01

The drill and tap and the clamp on scope mounts show to be out of stock.

jack19512 · « **Reply #25 on:** February 25, 2006, 03:15:36 AM »

http://www.grafs.com/search?q=STCOSP02

jack19512 · « **Reply #26 on:** February 25, 2006, 03:27:05 AM »

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/productdetail.aspx?p=1666&s=6110

Cheesehead · « **Reply #27 on:** February 25, 2006, 04:00:46 AM »

Thanks for the links. The brass I bought has the Graf head stamp on it. Made for Graf by somebody, maybe Norma. The neck/shoulder area appear to be annealed. It looks like quality stuff. I may buy another 100 since it is hard to find.

jh45gun · « **Reply #28 on:** February 25, 2006, 07:27:06 PM »

Cheese Head last I heard that Grafs brass was made by Privi Partisan but maybe they changed to some one else now? I do not know. Jack nothing wrong with reploading the berdan stuff Elmer Keith did it for years. I just find that since the local gun shop has a good supply of 284 brass I find that covenient to use and it is not any extra work using it. If I had a bunch of that Swiss brass I maybe would do the same but I never bought any and probably will not since I am set up for reloading the boxer primed stuff.