Author Topic: how to get recoil pad flush with stock (Read 641 times)

bluebayou · « **on:** March 07, 2006, 02:28:58 PM »

I got a Limbsaver grind to fit (based on GBO recommendations, very nice and easy to grind). It has a hard plastic base or spacer on stock side of the pad. I cannot get the stock sanded flat to get the new pad to lay flush to the butt of the wood. Any ideas?

John Traveler1 · « **Reply #1 on:** March 07, 2006, 04:15:03 PM »

You need some metal shim stock or heavy protective tape to protect the stock finish when grinding the pad flush with the existing stock. A cutup aluminum can works for this, or you can use double layers of duct tape.

A bench-mounted power disk sander or a belt sander works best for this. You hold the stock firmly, and angle the stock w/pad to cut only on the pad portion. Make the pad look like an extension of the stock wood. Avoid marring the stock, of course.

Actually, you don't need it to be perfectly flush to look good. If you look carefully at factory stocks, you will see they got that way because the pad fitting was done before applying the stock finish.

HTH
John

bluebayou · « **Reply #2 on:** March 07, 2006, 05:07:29 PM »

I am not stating this clearly enough (I posted the same question to the NEF crowd). I can get the pad to meet the contours of the stock. I just can't get the butt itself sanded flat (perpendicular to the axis of the bore maybe). When I bolt the pad to the stock then I have gaps all the way around the pad. I was thinking accraglas, but surely there is just a better way to sand this flat.

eye812 · « **Reply #3 on:** March 07, 2006, 06:57:27 PM »

bluebayou, remove as much metal from the stock as you can. So it is lighter in weight. Then find yourself a belt sander and apply the end of the stock to the sander until it is flat. Then screw the pad on and use the sander to shape the edges of the pad like John Traveler 1 said. Don't forget to seal the wood. Hope this helps.....

gunnut69 · « **Reply #4 on:** March 07, 2006, 08:48:57 PM »

OK I'll pass on a secret. The butt stock doesn't have to be perfectly flat. Use a new, sharp file and a staight edge(ruler). Mark with a pencil the areas that aer high and file them down. Then use a dremel or sharp gouge remove a tuny bit of wood in the center of the butt where the pad is to go. Leave a 1/4 to 3/8 flat around the perimeter. Don't remove too much, just a 1/64 will make getting the pad nice and flat a bunch easier. You should also check the pad's base with the straight edge.. I've seen move than a few that were not flat themselves.. Sand the edge(visible) of the pad with new sandpaper and a 1/4 sheet sander(220 grit) and finish with a little WD40. that's right WD40..it'll slick that pad right up.. at least it will the pachmeyer Decellerator pads.. Also be sure you thoroughly seal the butt stock's endgrain.. polyurethane or lacquer sealer will work.. as will Acraglass, epoxy or wax.

bluebayou · « **Reply #5 on:** March 08, 2006, 10:38:27 AM »

I tried the belt sander but didn't try it with an assistant.

WD-40, I know, who'd a thunk it? The Limbsaver instructions say to use WD-40 too. The trick with relieving the center of the butt is a good idea. I will give that shot. The belt sander method will be a go/no go in 10 seconds. Will try the craftsman approach second.

Thanks a bunch.