Author Topic: Wooden Deer Stands (Read 1721 times)

Jeffery8mm · « **on:** November 09, 2005, 10:12:55 AM »

How long can I expect a treated and painted ladder stand to last if left in the woods year round? My local hardware store sells lumber that is less than perfect for 2 for 1. So a treated 2x4x12 is like 6.00 for 2 of them. Granted they may be a little curvy but the work great for a lean to ladder stand.

Thanks

Jeff

Graybeard · « **Reply #1 on:** November 09, 2005, 10:27:55 AM »

I have one still in use and still safe that was put up in '88. The tree did blow over in a storm in the 90's some time when a tornado came thru the area. I took it off that tree and put it on another. I hadn't use PT wood on the floor so I pulled the floor and replaced it with 5/4"x6" decking boards. It's still there and still safe and sound. So I guess I can't say yet just how long. But that one's been there for 17 years now.

I used 14' PT 2x6s for the legs and the floor supports. Ran the floor supports 24" apart inside measurement and extended them back past the tree so I could fasten then to the tree on the sides and again across the back of it. I have a short board at the front of tree between them so it's fastened to the tree on all four sides. Used 24" 2x4s for the steps on some stands and 24" 5/4x6s on the rest. I prefer the 5/4x6 steps.

I have a couple out that I used 3/4" PT plywood to foor them with a more elaborate framing under it and they've been in place since the early 90s and are still sound.

Jeffery8mm · « **Reply #2 on:** November 09, 2005, 10:32:03 AM »

That is encouraging stuff!!!
Thanks
Jeff

jhm · « **Reply #3 on:** November 09, 2005, 12:59:17 PM »

Im not a fan of the wood stands, but if properly constructed they should last as long as a wooden deck in the same area, providing you keep the brush from growing all over it and helping it to become taken over by the growth.

JIM

PEPAW · « **Reply #4 on:** November 10, 2005, 01:18:38 AM »

I would paint it numerous coats with outdoor paint. I buy mine from the returned paint ("oops, wrong color") display at Home Depot. My advice is to use screws and maybe a treated foot to keep it from rotting where it hits the soil.

pepaw

Graybeard · « **Reply #5 on:** November 10, 2005, 02:52:16 AM »

Paint is NOT essential but something I most of the time do. I also use oil base NOT latex paint when I pain them. The mention of a treated foot worries me greatly. You MUST use ALL TREATED lumber or do not do it.

Back when I build my first stand the other guys who hunted the land also built several that same year. Now over 15 years later mine is still solid and safe. Theirs were falling down the next year because they didn't use treated lumber. I doubt seriously you could find any evidence now theirs ever existed.

Use all treated lumber and there is no reason it shouldn't last as long as a deck. Treated lumber is rot and insect resistant. NOT rot or insect proof completely but will usually last 15-20 years or more when exposed to the elements. Untreated lumber does good to make it one year down here where I am.

trophytaker308 · « **Reply #6 on:** November 10, 2005, 03:38:29 AM »

i would have never painted it,cause it will make the wood sweat in between the wood and the paint,the best thing would be to do is put some sealer on it...

PEPAW · « **Reply #7 on:** November 10, 2005, 09:17:13 AM »

I did not see the part about "treated" in the original post. Can't you let the treated wood "dry" or "cure" and then paint?

pepaw

jhm · « **Reply #8 on:** November 11, 2005, 03:03:51 AM »

Why paint it even the treated will turn dark in about a year and then blend in just build it early enough in the yuear so the game is use to it and it isnt something new to them.

JIM

Redhawk1 · « **Reply #9 on:** November 11, 2005, 03:44:24 AM »

Any more wooden stands is all I use. I have several very nice steel ladder stands that sit in my shead. I got 2 stands stolen off a lease in Maryland last year. So now I make all my stands out of wood and nail them down good. Seems the stand thiefs don't like them as well as my steel ladder stands. I have hunted out of some old wooden stands that have been out there for over 15 years. Just the beginning of each season we check all the stands and make repairs as necessary.

loaded4bear · « **Reply #10 on:** November 11, 2005, 09:36:53 PM »

Warped, discounted lumber would not be my 1st choice for constructing a ladder stand that I'd be entrusting my health & well-being to. While there is a certain satisfaction one gets from constructing his own stand from scratch, I would recommend that you use only 1st quality materials in your construction.

In my home state, the #1 cause of all hunting related injuries is falls from elevated treestands. A fall from a height of just 10-12 feet can cause serious permanent injury or death!

If you insist on constructing your own stand, please observe the following safety rules:

(1) always wear an approved safety harness when climbing in/out & sitting in your stand.
(2) avoid leaving your stand outdoors year-round

and
(3) be sure to do a thorough pre season safety check for any loose, damaged or missing pieces or hardware.

Good luck & good hunting!

gleason.chapman · « **Reply #11 on:** December 06, 2005, 05:09:20 AM »

I have written up my "system' of low cost, safe and easy to put up tree stands. They use Y-boards in a Y-tree and Rope steps to get into the tree.
Cost is only $16/stand for rope and Y-board. See here:

http://www.the-gleasons.com/low_cost_tree_stands_for_hunting.htm

also see my post and other responses to the post on this forum.

Chap

aulrich · « **Reply #12 on:** December 06, 2005, 09:31:25 AM »

Given the option I would not paint exterior wood ever (sort of). I would use stain, either semi- transparent or solid, oil based for the semi the soild I have had good results with latex. Coatings do two things, protect from water and UV damage. Paint does both of those really well until it cracks then water gets in and sits there and no amount of teatment will help.

Stains are not water proof so the wood will get wet but it will also dry out hopefully reducing the chance of rot. and the pigment in the stain will help protect the wood from the sun. Plain PT wood will eventually get damaged by the sun and check past the pt layer, letting water into the unprotected wood.

The one problem with wood stands is it is very hard to make the so they don't squeek.

Make sure to treat the end grain of PT wood well even if it is not cut. PT wood is damn near soggy when you buy it, treating the end grain will slow down the drying process so it is less likly to crak or twist.

I made that mistake when I was making a garden aubor a few years back and I had a couple of 4x4 get 45 degrees of twist in them before I could use them.

Flyrod444 · « **Reply #13 on:** December 08, 2005, 05:55:08 AM »

I really like hunting out of the wooden stands I have put up over the years. The only one that is not useable at this time, was screwed up by loggers on our lease. They drug logs by it and bumped it with their skidders which messed it up pretty bad. The dang thing is still standing though. I think that I will re-build it in the spring. Here is a pic of what most of my stands look like. I use 4x4 cedar for the legs and treated for the rest of the framing. T1-11 makes good siding and roofs that will last a long time if painted or stained. I have even put shingles on a few now. The stands with roofs tend to handle the weather better than the ones without.

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wareagleguy · « **Reply #14 on:** December 08, 2005, 11:50:22 AM »

Wooden Tree Stands....Latin word that means Widow Maker.

Jeffery8mm · « **Reply #15 on:** December 09, 2005, 03:13:01 AM »

All of this talk of wooden stands being MORE dangerous has me puzzled. Here in rural Ms I here of more hunters geting KILLED by falling from climbing stands. Also I hear alot of horror stories about these "lock on " stands. Once I put a Wooden ladder stand up it is secured to the tree by way of chain binder. The seat platform is 30" across,plenty of room even for the largest behind. My personal max height is 14' from the ground. Not 30' like some of you climbers like to go. The wooden stand is a safe way to hunt IF you take care of it and do a pre season check. To each his own.
Jeff

Flyrod444 · « **Reply #16 on:** December 09, 2005, 03:49:43 AM »

If wooden tree stands are built right, and checked yearly they are as safe as hunting of your back deck. I use a climbing stand also, but never feel as safe in it as I do my well built wooden stands.
Jack

DaveP · « **Reply #17 on:** December 15, 2005, 03:55:53 AM »

Quote from: Flyrod444

If wooden tree stands are built right, and checked yearly they are as safe as hunting of your back deck. I use a climbing stand also, but never feel as safe in it as I do my well built wooden stands.
Jack

EXACTLY!
To me,much more stable and secure.

Jeff-B · « **Reply #18 on:** January 18, 2006, 02:53:41 AM »

i have been building decks for homes for almost 20 years now and id like to offer a few tips . i must admit though that ive never built a deck in the woods for use as a deer stand...although ive done a few in fields 3 to 5 ft off the ground to simulate house elevation so you could a lake just over the hill that you cant on the ground .
dont use lumber that is culled , youre buying stuff that nobody really wants and can be a bear (if possible at all) to build a level and or plumb stand . who wants to be leaning or canted all day long.?
make sure you use a cement footer..a 12x12x8 peir block is what we use or you could even pour your footer . we go 18 inches deep here in va to get below the frost line .
use 6x6 or at least 4x4 for your legs....you want this thing to last a decade or more and be safe . 6x6 will be better for knotching to carry the framing band on so you dont have nails or screws supporting the framing .
use diaganol bracing on the legs to stregenth it against wind and and folding over because it doesnt have a structure to attach to . dont attach to trees.....trees will grow and move in the wind , the deck wont .
decks squeek because something isnt securely fastened or has become loose ALWAYS use galvanised nails and try to use ring shank because ring shanks have similar holding power to screws with out the cost and time to actually screw .
make sure to attach rail post with lag bolts..the extra $10 may save you or a loved one from a falling injury or worse .laging the frame board to the legs is a good idea too '
try to set your floor joist on 16 inch centers a do use 5/4 decking board or 2x4-2x6 for flooring will feel so much stronger and durable .
use only pressur treated lumber and never paint it,paint will bubble in summer and crack like eggshell in winter and you have to paint every year . use stains of different colors or shades if you want a camo type look and then seal with a quality sealer,make sure to use somethiong on the label that says it has ultra violet protection/filtering . sun bleaching/rotting damages decks much faster than moisture or temperature . Olympic Beahr and CWF make very good products for the money and can be easily applied with a pump up incetcide sprayer..just dont do it on a windy day or you will seal yourself and your clothes..lol also..if you do a seperate stain and sealer ... be sure to stain first and then seal . sealing first will not alow the stain to get to the wood .
i hope the is helpful to some and may even prevent a injury....

killdeer · « **Reply #19 on:** January 23, 2006, 07:05:22 AM »

Nice post Jeff-B

KD

grousehunter · « **Reply #20 on:** March 26, 2006, 03:13:47 PM »

my stand is a crows nest in a tree, 27" up! until recently the lumer used was 3" saplings, changed every 2 yrs, I recently changed to treated for the railings and expext them to last 20 yrs instead of 2!!!!! I have no ladder, I use tree climbers!