Author Topic: WHO HAS THE BEST COLD BLUING (Read 1634 times)

14jesus · « **on:** February 11, 2006, 06:40:59 AM »

Folks I apoligize for what may be a redundant question. I don't seem to be able to do a search in forums for some reason. Any way here goes it, I've got a couple of personal refinish jobs to do and if I can get a cold blue to give acceptable results that will last and look good i had just assume to do a cold blue. I just tried Birchwoods liquid perma blue and was not happy. I feel that with technology today somebody must offer a great product that will give satisfactory results. I've got the metal buffed to a near mirror finish and i don't mind spending a few extra bucks(with in reason of course) to get the finish i desire THNAKS SO MUCH FOR YOUR ADVICE IN ADVANCE

longgun · « **Reply #1 on:** February 12, 2006, 02:19:07 AM »

I don't think much of any of the cold blue. Most of it will rub off on an oily rag when you wipe down something that has been blued with it. Brownell's Oxpro Blue is the best that I've found, but it still is not in the same league with hot blue. Don

june6th1944 · « **Reply #2 on:** February 12, 2006, 04:59:42 AM »

I've had good results w/ Birchwood Casey Perma Blue. With ANY cold blue, you don't want the surface to be highly polished. NO cold blue will work well in that application; however, hot bluing will work well. Believe it or not, steel has pores and polishing the metal reduces it's ability to take the solution. It's like highly polishing a hardwood w/ fine grain sandpaper--you can polish the wood well enough that it won't accept a stain!

Having mentioned all of this, you have some options to try. You might want to look at BC Super Blue which is for harder metals, or try another bluing like Oxpho Blue. You might want to consider Blue Wonder--their product is actually a different process of bluing (not oxidation) and may work better--I would email them first and tell them about your situation www.bluewonder.us. Another thing you can do with any of the other cold blues is treat your polished metal surface with a good coating of naval jelly, and then reblue. The jelly should make the surface more receptive to a cold bluing solution. Put it on let it work for 10-15 minutes, then wash it off with water, degrease your metal, and try the bluing again. After bluing the solution, it needs to set somewhat by coating with just about any water-displacing oil. I use Sheath or WD40 (it's the only time WD40 gets near a gun part though).

Good luck.

Racepres · « **Reply #3 on:** February 12, 2006, 07:36:15 AM »

If you follow the directions the blue wonder product does amazingly well...MV

Jason · « **Reply #4 on:** February 12, 2006, 07:40:03 AM »

Another vote for Blue Wonder. It's a lot more expensive than the other cold blues I've tried, but it works a lot better, too. I let a friend borrow mine and didn't get it back before he was stationed somewhere else, so I'm about to buy some more now to reblue an old Mauser I was given. Make sure to follow the directions exactly and use the Blue Wonder chemical cleaner before you use the blueing solution.

jgalar · « **Reply #5 on:** February 12, 2006, 05:15:13 PM »

The biggest problem with cold blues is getting the metal clean. Try using Acetone on the parts to be blued and also on your hands. I also scrub the cold blue on with cleaned steel wool. You can get a pretty fair finish even with the cheap blue. As for durability, while rewiring my fencing swords I blued some of them, a fencing sword goes through more punishment in one afternoon than your gun will in a life time. They look good and don't rust even though they are never oiled. They get sweat on them and get banged around and all I do is wipe them off with a towel. Deep gouges and sharp edges are honed smooth and touched up with cold blue.

gunnut69 · « **Reply #6 on:** February 12, 2006, 08:03:50 PM »

I've used OxphoBlue for years with good results..but haven't tried the WonderBlue. Follow directions and I prefer the liquid to the paste..turns out a more even color..

jrfrmn · « **Reply #7 on:** March 05, 2006, 04:43:30 PM »

Quote from: 14jesus

Folks I apoligize for what may be a redundant question. I don't seem to be able to do a search in forums for some reason. Any way here goes it, I've got a couple of personal refinish jobs to do and if I can get a cold blue to give acceptable results that will last and look good i had just assume to do a cold blue. I just tried Birchwoods liquid perma blue and was not happy. I feel that with technology today somebody must offer a great product that will give satisfactory results. I've got the metal buffed to a near mirror finish and i don't mind spending a few extra bucks(with in reason of course) to get the finish i desire THNAKS SO MUCH FOR YOUR ADVICE IN ADVANCE

If you don't find what you are looking for let me know. I might be able to help you out with hot blue. How much does it cost where you live for hot blueing a barrell. I'ts much better.

Huffmanite · « **Reply #8 on:** March 07, 2006, 07:57:31 PM »

Recently had a new barrel put on my 1891 Argentine. Long time ago, tried several cold blue products like Birch-Casey and never happy with any of them. Found Blue Wonder doing web search for gun blue. Read up on it and decided to try it. Kind of expensive compared to others, but over all, I was very pleased with results.

AkRvrrat · « **Reply #9 on:** March 08, 2006, 07:06:38 AM »

I too have a few rifles that are going thru some phases. I ordered up Lauer Duracoat(not bake on), a airbrush and a small compressor for the airbrush. I like what I read on the DuraCoat not chipping. What I now have invested into the requirements of the use of DuraCoat I could have had a gunsmith finish one rifle in Teflon, E.Nckl etc... but I now can do up to 4 rifles.
I too just received my Blue Wonder Gun Black and am in the process of removing the old finish and pits on my old 94. Preparations is the key. I suspect this Black is gonna work just fine for a conventional finisher.

corelokt308win · « **Reply #10 on:** March 08, 2006, 11:05:49 AM »

I'm getting into the Duracoat stuff myself. I've got everything now except the abrasive blast cabinet I've ordered. I'm hoping to pick-up some local work doing this and checkering, but need to do a few of my own to start.

gunnut69 · « **Reply #11 on:** March 08, 2006, 12:36:35 PM »

I forgot the biggest advantage of OxphoBlue,, it works without completely removing the oil from the piece. The surface has to be clean but can remain oiled... Very handy indeed..

corelokt308win · « **Reply #12 on:** March 13, 2006, 02:55:17 AM »

I'm planning on trying the Oxpho-blue on my fathers old double shotgun. It'll be blasted and I'll be rubbing the blue in with steel wool. When I finally get it done I'll try to remember to post some pics before I return it.

gunnut69 · « **Reply #13 on:** March 13, 2006, 09:39:09 AM »

Good luck and remember to follow the directions. Only hint I can give is that you should never let the surface dry. When the solution quits reacting with the steel, dry it off and put on fresh. Don't hesitate to use a new, clean applicator. After your done and the project is dry, heat it with a torch and allow to cool. Polish with steel fur (0000) and allow to sit overnight before oiling with WD40 and allowing to set a few hours before buffing with a clean cloth..

Pictures would be great!!

Plink · « **Reply #14 on:** March 20, 2006, 11:59:24 AM »

Brownell's Oxpho Blue is about the most durable cold bluing there is. I've tried many kinds and some are a little easier to work with, or might get a little darker, but none are even close in durability.

I blued an H&R 10 gauge with it about 10 years ago and it still looks fine after a lot of field use. I test cold bluing durability by applying it to the bottom of an SKS bolt carrier and going shooting. The hammer soon wears off any bluing, but Oxpho outlasts them all.

Racepres · « **Reply #15 on:** March 20, 2006, 04:45:52 PM »

Quote

but Oxpho outlasts them all

Including blue wonder??? On my contender "tang" the blue wonder product has been 2 yrs durable. None other has come close, in a high use area... mv

Will52100 · « **Reply #16 on:** March 20, 2006, 08:09:48 PM »

Anybody tried Caswell black oxide kit? http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/black.htm

Heard good things about it over on the hobby gunsmith, they used it on a conversion ring for a dragoon conversion, the rest of the gun was nickled. Said it looked a lot like rust blueing.

I'm wondering how durable it is, I'm thinking of it for bowie gaurds and a couple black powder revolvers that I wouldn't mind having that "worn" look, but I'd want fancy gaurds finish to hold up.

Plink · « **Reply #17 on:** March 22, 2006, 03:52:14 PM »

Quote from: Racepres

Quote
but Oxpho outlasts them all

Including blue wonder??? On my contender "tang" the blue wonder product has been 2 yrs durable. None other has come close, in a high use area... mv

From what I can tell, it does outlast Blue Wonder as far as durability. I think Blue Wonder looks a little better, but you need to have them side by side to notice the difference.

The secret to Oxpho is rub it on with degreased steel wool, rub it out with dry, degreased steel wool, and repeat till it's as dark as you want. Takes about 5 quick coats to get it nice and evenly dark. Having the solution and the metal about body temp helps it come out darker too.

Plink · « **Reply #18 on:** March 22, 2006, 03:55:10 PM »

Quote from: Will52100

Anybody tried Caswell black oxide kit? http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/black.htm

Heard good things about it over on the hobby gunsmith, they used it on a conversion ring for a dragoon conversion, the rest of the gun was nickled. Said it looked a lot like rust blueing.

I'm wondering how durable it is, I'm thinking of it for bowie gaurds and a couple black powder revolvers that I wouldn't mind having that "worn" look, but I'd want fancy gaurds finish to hold up.

I have a friend who uses that in knife and tool making. From what I've seen, it's as durable or more so than hot bluing. I sure don't like how it looks though. It's a flat metallic black look. Maybe on highly polished metal it would look better. It tends to etch the metal a bit, so I'm not sure polishing it would help that much. If you tinker with it, please post your results. I'm interested in getting into it also for other uses than guns.

Will52100 · « **Reply #19 on:** March 22, 2006, 04:48:16 PM »

Thanks, I think I'll give it a try. The breach ring they did looked pretty good, they said they did it three times, rubing with steel wool between dunks.