Won't chamber

[The Sodbuster]

Was at the range this morning shooting a new Savage in .223 Rem.  Was using handloads, most in brand new brass.  Some was in some old brass I'd picked up at the range.  On some of the rounds, I'd push the bolt forward, but it wouldn't close.  Looked to all be the used brass I'd salvaged.  It was all full-length resized in a Hornady die and trimmed to below SAAMI maximum length.  

I reload for a few other calibers and have used brass I'd picked up at the range before, never with a problem.  I assume the headspace was too long on the non-chambering rounds.  Will seating the sizing die deeper fix this?  

These were somewhat pricey, abrasive-coated bullets I was using to fire-lap the bore.  I've ordered a bullet puller to recover them and complete the process.

[ricciardelli]

Well, I have two opinions...and probably not too popular.

First of all, you get what you pay for, and when you pick-up free range brass, you are getting nothing.

Secondly, I don't believe in ever running anything down a bore which is abrasive.  And I believe that most barrel makers agree with me.

[str8shooter48]

The sizing die would be the first place I'd go. It may have be turned in up a bit. You may not be pushing the shoulder back to spec. I had this happen to my 6mm rem. I did all the trimming measuring and all the good stuff then I cranked the sizing die down just a little and the problem went away.

What kind of press are you using? I hear this could happen in a turret press if theres slop in the turret.

Good Luck

[jhalcott]

Maybe you are causing a slight bulge on the brass at the shoulder when you seat you bullets. This prevents the case fully entering the chamber. WHY are you scrubbing the bore with that abrasive stuff???

[roper]

Sometimes the free brass will work other times it won't.  Best to invest in what is call a small base sizing die if your going to use brass that has been fired in your rifle to start with.  Just my .02

[rbt50]

i would turn the sizing die down a little more.i have had his problem with brass for the 50 bmg and a few others,the brass could have been shot in a over size chamber.

[rambo1937]

Get a small base die and a RCBS precision Mic. Fire a round in your rifle then use the mic to measure the case from the base to the neck. That will be your head space length. Set the die to move it back 1 to 2 thousandths.

Jim :grin:

[PaulS]

I f you lube the inside of the neck the sizing plug will go through more easily and won't pull the case neck up as it is pulled through - That is my first thought but here is how to find out where the problem lies. Look closely at the shoulder-neck junction and see if it is stretched or compressed just a bit - compare it to a round that you just shot and see where the dimensions differ. If the shoulder is widened where it meets the neck then you are either crimping the bullet before it is fully seated and the neck is being crushed into the shoulder- which widens it. If the shoulder is pulled longer than the round you just fired the the neck expansion plug is pulling it as you remove it from the die - this happens when there is not enough lube on the expander or inside of the neck.
To lube the inside of the neck use a wire brush rolled on a lube pad or lightly sprayed with spray lube. Run the brass brush in and out of the neck while turning it back and forth in the case.

[The Sodbuster]

I'd like to thank everyone for the helpful advice, and address the following comments:

Jhalcott asked:

WHY are you scrubbing the bore with that abrasive stuff???

And Riciardelli stated:

Secondly, I don't believe in ever running anything down a bore which is abrasive. And I believe that most barrel makers agree with me.

I'm using the Tubb Final Finish bore polishing system.  It ain't like pouring sand down your barrel.  It is a set of 50 bullets; 10 each in 5 successively finer grits.  The grits are very fine.  They do not feel gritty or abrasive to the touch.  After having used it in one previous rifle, I'm a believer.  If I bought an expensive, after-market barrel I doubt I'd bother with it.  But with an inexpensive, factory barrel I feel it does more good than bad.  I'm not telling anyone else they should do the same, but I like it.

One other thing: if you buy a fancy, hand-lapped barrel, do you know what's in those lapping compounds they use?  Answer - ABRASIVES!  When they polish a lacquered finish on an expensive table top, do you know what they use?  Answer - ABRASIVES!  When you brush your teeth, guess what's in the toothpaste that cleans the crud off your enamel.  Answer - ABRASIVES.

[ricciardelli]

But those abrasives are not used at 60,000 PSI or at 2,400 degrees...

[jhalcott]

Sod buster, I know what you are doing,BUT WHY? Is that barrel shooting that bad, fouling from a few shots that bad. Will this procedure polish the throat area.Or will it only abrade the lands and rifling.Did the gun really need this .I'm guessing that you realize the lapping can reduce the life of the barrel by as much as several hundred to a thousand rounds. Please don't take this as a flame! Those guys that shoot bench rest usually get rid of their barrels after a couple years because they no longer shoot in the "2's or 3's". I am NOT trying to talk you out of it ,just trying to help you make the best decision.  I once bought a rifle JUST for the action. Traded the stock and barrel to a guy who later outshot me with his "parts "gun!  Would I do it again?? SURE,I wanted that action!