Author Topic: Home bluing kit needed. (Read 590 times)

stinkbelly · « **on:** April 27, 2006, 02:39:57 AM »

I am redoing an old pistol and need a home bluing kit. I tried to polish the finish, but some of the scratches and pitting is too deep for a mirror finish to look good so I grit blasted it and it looks great. Now I need a bluing product. I thought about the spray on coating like Gunkote, but that will cover some of the fine markings and I am not good at spraying. I would like something that is soaked in a tank. Does anyone have experience with a home kit?

Nobade · « **Reply #1 on:** April 27, 2006, 02:02:23 PM »

I do small parts on a Coleman propane stove, using an enameled tamale pot that I blasted the finish off the inside of. It must be removed or it will mess up the bluing. The salts are made from Caustic soda beads, sodium nitrate and sodium nitrite. (Don't remember the proportions at the moment, they're at the shop) When the salts are prepared, and are boiling at 290 deg. F, wet your parts first and immerse in the boiling salts. Keep the water level correct so the salts don't exceed 305 deg. F. When done, wash the parts with cool water and blow dry. oil right away to prevent rust. Don't do this in the house, and be careful. The salts are a very strong base and will quickly destroy any body parts they touch, not to mention very hot. This is a quick rundown, if you have any questions just ask.

stinkbelly · « **Reply #2 on:** April 28, 2006, 02:29:02 AM »

I don't have a problem doing it hot. Where do I get the ingredients? Is it sold in the correct proportions? Do I just drop the parts in the bath and let them lay on the bottom?

thanks

michael orlen · « **Reply #3 on:** April 28, 2006, 04:57:01 AM »

It will be far less expensive and you'll get a better job by turning your prepared parts over to a gunsmith who is set uo to hot oxide blue them. The chemicals are not cheap, must be bought in bulk, and are expensive to ship (since they are hazardous). The hot oxid bluing process is not quite as simple as ".....just drop the parts in the bath and let them lay on the bottom.". There is a bit of experience needed in order to get an acceptable color and depth, and this in not something you'll learn in bluing one firearm.

longgun · « **Reply #4 on:** April 28, 2006, 12:05:09 PM »

Years ago I use to use one pound of 35 % amonia nitrate fertilize, 5 pounds of lye that you buy at the grocery store mixed with a gallon or water. The Amonia has to be boiled off of the solution so you need to do this outside. Do not breath the vapors what ever you do. Even after the amonia is boiled off you will still need to do your blueing outside, because the vapor off the chemicals will make everything in your garage or shop rust.

If you are not going to do alot of blueing do as has been suggested and have either a plating shop or gunsmith do it for you. Plating shops are much less expensive than gunsmiths, if you take the gun apart and do your own buffing. Don

doncisler · « **Reply #5 on:** April 28, 2006, 03:44:32 PM »

i agree with what has been said.
i am set up to do all three finishes. the 260 degree oxide, 700 degree salt, and phosphate (parkerizing).
unless you are planning to really get into this as a hobby take it to a gunsmith.
when i set up one of mine i want to do at least a few guns at a time or it is not worth it!!
tried it in a separate part of my shop separated by a partition and it still made everything in my shop rust - what a mess. i swear it made the window panes rust....