Author Topic: How long to do a trigger job (Read 651 times)

aulrich · « **on:** April 26, 2006, 12:41:52 PM »

I think I have finally worked up the confidence to do a trigger job on the 204, and I was wondering ho long does i take. Is this something that can be done on a Saturday or over a couple of evenings.

Funny I was thinking that it was not too bad, but a my new arrival, a 10/22T with a VQ hammer with a pull just over 2lbs has spoiled me.

quickdtoo · « **Reply #1 on:** April 26, 2006, 12:47:39 PM »

My first one took about an hour once I made the slave pin, which can be a wood dowel, doesn't need to be metal. Now, they take about 20-30 minutes for the initial cleaning and honing and one reassembly to test, more if It doesn't meet my approval and I need to hone some more.

Tim

myarmor · « **Reply #2 on:** April 26, 2006, 01:21:44 PM »

Slave Pin=VERY GOOD IDEA. I highly reccomend this, if you don't have one it will take longer. Unless you have 3 hands :grin:
-Aaron

one$$shot · « **Reply #3 on:** April 26, 2006, 02:05:04 PM »

I did my trigger on my Pardner following Quick's direction and the FAQ's. It took me about 3 hours. It was my first time. I put it back together and took it apart 30 times. This translates to not driving the pins all the way back in just to try it out with a trigger gauge. When I got mine to read about 3 1/2 pounds half way put back together, put back together it read 3 pounds when the pins are driven all the way in. Just trying to show you the side to error on. I used 3/16" diameter brass rod that I got cheap at the hardware store for a slave pin. It is easy to cut and file into shape and won't splinter. I made two of them so that it would only take me half as long to find one while I was working. :grin:

Hammerspur · « **Reply #4 on:** April 27, 2006, 02:39:03 AM »

I've been using the same wooden dowels as slave pins for reassembly for years. I did make hollow pointed metal push pins from old tool stock (screwdriver shafts,etc.) for disassembly/reassembly of the convex head pins in the receiver. I use a small footpress (sometimes called a kick-press) to urge them in and out. I have one in each pin size as used, including the barrel hinge.

I may make up a metal slave pin just for 'aesthetics', if you will, but almost any round stock will do, even stiff plastic tubing.

aulrich · « **Reply #5 on:** April 27, 2006, 05:04:05 AM »

Thanks, I'll start collecting the bits and doing some prep-work making slave pins the plexi-glass punch guide etc. The start the work next week, Some varmints must die this weekend.

Fred M · « **Reply #6 on:** April 28, 2006, 12:53:34 PM »

If you take down the rifle you may as well take out the latch and fit the seat in the casting. The area where it sits in is very rough and at time wont let the latch go all the way foreward. Check the fit with lip stick.

A small needle file will clean out the corners in the casting and then give the latch sides a rub with some fine emery paper or a file. This ensures that there is always presure on the latch instead of being hung up.

aulrich · « **Reply #7 on:** April 30, 2006, 08:58:40 AM »

Thanks Fred I'll keep that in mind. This gun has alway had a bit of a lock-up issue I have stoned the shelf but I will look there too.