Author Topic: New FA .475-help please (Read 1286 times)

Marsh1 · « **on:** June 28, 2006, 11:31:57 AM »

I just placed an order for a Premier grade 4 3/4" .475 with octagon barrel and need to start accumulating supplies. I will need dies, mould and brass. Where is the best place to get these goodies and with mould should I get, Which dies? Starline brass? This is new to me.
Any suggestions appreciated.
Marsh
PS: Do I need a special holster? Will a holster for a Ruger or Colt work?

dubber123 · « **Reply #1 on:** June 28, 2006, 12:01:22 PM »

I too have a 4 3/4" .475. The most accurate revolver I have ever fired. Will stay under 1" at 50 yds. Starline brass is very good, I have always used Hornady. It's cheaper, very high quality, and after 20+ firings, I haven't lost one. For dies, I have the Hornady Titanium Nitride 4 die set. These dies are inexpensive, you don't need to lube cases, and mine came with the taper crimp die, which I think you will need. I did, as my ammo will not fit in the tight F/A chambers without it. For full power loads, I like H-110 powder, for plinking loads, Unique. CCI mag. primers for the hot stuff. When Veral gets back to LBT, get one of his molds, they are expensive, but are the best I have seen. I shoot a 440 gr. WFN for full power loads, but they shoot poorly for plinkers, I suggest maybe a 400 gr. or less for the light loads. RCBS makes a 400 gr. SWC that I understand shoots well. I don't think a Ruger holster will work, unless it's made on the loose side. I bought a F/A holster for mine, pricey (100$), but very well made. Have fun with your new boomer!

Marsh1 · « **Reply #2 on:** June 28, 2006, 05:19:20 PM »

dubbler, thanks for all that great info. I want a bullet to plink and hunt with. What do you mean by the LBT not shooting good for plinking? Does that mean it isn't accurate at any velocity or just the slower? I'm a bit confused by that. Also, do I have to wait for Veral to get back in order to get a mold? I heard he got sent up river, or was it down? I don't really like RCBS or Lyman molds. They used to be OK but have gone down hill.
Again thanks for the answer,
Marsh

Graybeard · « **Reply #3 on:** June 28, 2006, 05:29:46 PM »

Regardless of what you might have heard Veral should be back in full production within the next 2-3 weeks. I find the heavy bullets to do fine personally. I shoot nothing lighter than the 400s. Lee is making a mould that "looks like" the LBT style that drops out at about 400 grains. It's a good mould, I was one of three testers of the original prototype for it.

I find the LBT bullets of 420, 430 and 440 grains all work well at reduced velocity but then I gues it depends on one's definition of reduced velocity. They do fine at around 1000 fps and I've seen posts on here by other members shooting them as slow as 800 fps I think.

I also see no reason a holster for a Ruger to not fit. I don't have a Ruger at this time to compare but I think the are close enough most holsters other than one specifically moulded to the gun should work OK.

Hornady and Starline brass both should do fine.

Marsh1 · « **Reply #4 on:** June 28, 2006, 05:51:45 PM »

Good the hear Veral is due back soon. I spoke with him at lenght several years ago and he seemed like a good guy. Perhaps I'll call him and I'm sure he will express an opinion about the best mold for me.
Thanks,
Marsh

dubber123 · « **Reply #5 on:** June 29, 2006, 12:12:51 AM »

Marsh1, My LBT is a 440 gr. which is pretty heavy. It shoots great at full power, (1350 ish), but when I slow them to 800 or so, they shoot 3 foot groups at 50 yds. instead of an inch. I think maybe the rifling twist is a litle too slow to stabilize them at too slow of a speed. I used to shoot 425 grainers, and don't remember having this problem. That is why I suggested the lighter bullets for plinking. They kick less also. As soon as Veral is back, I have about 5 molds I can't live without, and will be ordering. I understand his wife does have some molds in stock, and may have the one you need. I do have one more suggestion, if you didn't get the extra cost trigger job and overtravel screw, get it. Without it, your trigger will probably be 4 lbs. which is OK, but not great. My much less expensive S&W's are alot easier to shoot, because of the better trigger.

Marsh1 · « **Reply #6 on:** June 29, 2006, 12:39:50 PM »

dubber, good suggestion. I ordered the trigger job/stop today and also ordered a .480 Ruger cylinder. My dealer gave it to me for $230.00 since I had spent so much.
Which bring up my next question; will .475 dies work for the .480?
Thanks,
Marsh

dubber123 · « **Reply #7 on:** June 29, 2006, 12:55:25 PM »

Marsh1, my Hornady dies say 480 Ruger/475 Linebaugh, so I would guess so. I can't say this of any other brand though. Good call on the trigger job, I wish I had done it when I ordered mine. It's going to cost alot more now.

SJPrice · « **Reply #8 on:** June 29, 2006, 04:35:16 PM »

The 475 dies will work with 480's in RCBS or Hornady. I seldom load 480's though as I can just use "light" 475 loads. I find 420 grain LFNGC LBT hard cast will shoot extrememly well from 800 all the way up through max loads and are great slugs for any purpose.

Marsh1 · « **Reply #9 on:** June 29, 2006, 05:04:56 PM »

Thanks, thats really good info. I will order one of the LBT molds and Hornady dies.
Marsh

EdK · « **Reply #10 on:** June 29, 2006, 05:24:40 PM »

I never understood why FA charges extra for a trigger job on a $2500 gun :roll:

Marsh1 · « **Reply #11 on:** June 29, 2006, 06:27:08 PM »

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

"I never understood why FA charges extra for a trigger job on a $2500 gun"

Because they can???

Marsh1 · « **Reply #12 on:** June 29, 2006, 06:36:20 PM »

First I want to thank everyone for the help with my questions. I just hope owning this brute will be as much fun as getting it started. It's about a month off according to the nice lady at the factory. Well, as it stands now here's what I have coming; Premier grade .475 with 4- 3/4" octagon barrel with express sights. .480 Ruger extra cylinder and trigger job with stop and Winewood grips.
Have I forgotten anything? I hope not, I'm maxed out.
Marsh

EdK · « **Reply #13 on:** June 30, 2006, 06:34:02 AM »

Quote from: Marsh1

Because they can???

Well, I suppose that's one answer...

I do understand why everything from octagonal barrels right down to a jeweled trigger or an overtravel screw is optional. It just seems that a clean (not necessarily light) trigger represents a certain a standard of workmanship and should not be optional on a gun in this price range.

Maybe I could convince someone at S&W they could save money by shipping their guns with "Ruger" triggers :-D

Marsh1 · « **Reply #14 on:** June 30, 2006, 06:43:56 AM »

Quote from: EdK

Quote from: Marsh1
Because they can???

Well, I suppose that's one answer...

I do understand why everything from octagonal barrels right down to a jeweled trigger or an overtravel screw is optional. It just seems that a clean (not necessarily light) trigger represents a certain a standard of workmanship and should not be optional on a gun in this price range.

Maybe I could convince someone at S&W they could save money by shipping their guns with "Ruger" triggers :-D

YIKES!!!! Please don't do that.

Marsh

MS Hitman · « **Reply #15 on:** July 01, 2006, 05:29:11 AM »

Not to rain on your parade; but personally, I would not have ordered the 480 Ruger cylinder. I shoot 8.0 grains of WW231 behind a 400 grain LBT with very impressive accuracy and very little recoil and blast. The cost of the extra cylinder would pay for brass, dies, and some bullets.

I hope you enjoy your .475 FA as much as I have and do enjoy mine.

Marsh1 · « **Reply #16 on:** July 01, 2006, 08:02:01 AM »

Well, the way I figured it "in for a penny, in for a pound", but you're right, I could down load some .475, but then I would have to figure out which was the hot load and which was the "special" load. Besides, my dealer is giving me the extra cylinder at cost. :grin:
Marsh
PS: Thanks for the load info.

EdK · « **Reply #17 on:** July 01, 2006, 10:57:00 AM »

Quote from: MS Hitman

Not to rain on your parade; but personally, I would not have ordered the 480 Ruger cylinder.

Even though a little off topic, my thoughts exactly on the 45 Colt cylinder for 454s. I just handload especially for the mid-range vs. full-house in the 454. As for cowboy loads, heck, I just drag out a USFA Rodeo or S&W 625 Mountain Gun in 45 Colt - each of which I bought for very little over the cost of a FA cylinder alone. I love my FA model 83 but it would be a stretch to call it "handy".

MS Hitman · « **Reply #18 on:** July 01, 2006, 11:54:48 AM »

That's not a problem either. I use different crimps for light and heavy loads. Sometimes I get real fancy and take a magic marker to the case heads on the light loads.

Marsh1 · « **Reply #19 on:** July 01, 2006, 12:48:51 PM »

Well, what ever works. I just like things simple to suite my cluttered mind. Fact is, I wouldn't mind having just the .480 cylinder as it should suffice for all my needs and have the .475 Linbaugh as the extra cylinder. I know I shoot my .44 Special a lot more than my .44 mags.
Marsh

MS Hitman · « **Reply #20 on:** July 01, 2006, 04:13:52 PM »

I'm sure you'll enjoy the revolver when it arrives. Best of luck.

SJPrice · « **Reply #21 on:** July 03, 2006, 06:30:29 AM »

In answer to the question concerning the trigger. The factory trigger on my FA is one of the best triggers on any gun I have ever owned or handled. There is no drag what so ever and it breaks at just a hair over 3 pounds. If you want you can have the factory install a stop screw and also lighten it up a bit. For that you do and probably should pay extra. To say that you have to pay extra to get a good trigger on a premium FA is just not correct. The factory trigger is fantastic just like the rest of the fit, finish and accuracy.

Marsh1 · « **Reply #22 on:** July 24, 2006, 08:55:41 AM »

Good new! My dealer just called and my FA 83 is shipping tomorrow, which means I should have in t Wed. Right at 4 weeks. I'm excited.
Marsh