The More Complete Cannoneer

[Double D]

I just got a copy of The More Complete Cannoneer by M.C. Switlik. I should have bought this book years ago.

This book is really two books in one.

The first part of the book is a reprint of a portion of Patten's Artillery Drill by George Patten, 1861

The second half of the book is and Containing other Observations on Antique Cannon By M.C. Switlik with selected excerpts from other artillery manuals

The full name of the book is THE MORE COMPLETE CANNONEER compiled Agreeably to the Regulations of the War Department as published in "Artillery Drill" by George Patten, 1861 and Containing Other Observations on Antique Cannon By M.C. Switlik with selected excerpts from other artillery manuals

If you shoot cannons; originals, replicas or models you should have this book!

I have been thumbing my way through it and picking out various topics to read.

As I go through the book, I am going to share some the items I come across that pertains to things we have been discussing here on the board.

Here's the first.

Liners

Two methods of lining.  

Seamless tubing is shrink-fit or epoxied in place.  To shrink fit , make the liner a few thousandths larger then the freshly bore gun tube.  Heat the tube to a few hundred degrees. Pack the liner with a mixture of alcohol and dry ice. slide the liner in place and let the gun return to normal temeprature.

I wish we all knew this before Calamity had to have her liner pressed in.

[Calamity Jane]

. . . looking forward to the next instalment . . .

(I like my press-fit - I have confidence in it and KNOW it will never move!)

[Double D]

excerpt from: THE MORE COMPLETE CANNONEER compiled Agreeably to the Regulations of the War Department as published in "Artillery Drill" by George Patten, 1861 and Containing Other Observations on Antique Cannon By M.C. Switlik with selected excerpts from other artillery manuals


Powder

"Type B blasting powder  is made with sodium nitrate instead of postassium nitrate and produces more residue and very unpredicatable results when fired ion cannon"

"Thanks to a growing demand, the primary U.S. source of black powder now markets a 'cannon' granulation, much more appropriate for use in cannons over two-inch caliber and under four-inch caliber"

Never use anthing finer than FG.  "Recent research has demonstrated it's potential for producing very high pressures and, if it must be used, charges must be carefully controlled and kept to a minimum."  "The other granualtions are never to be used for for projectile firing in cannon."

"The finest powders (FFFg and FFFFg) can only be used in artillery ignitors and primers ect."

"An alternative to Sporting grades of black powder is Type A blasting" "If available 2FA  and 1FA granualtions can be used. The 2FA is very similar to cannon grade. 1FA is much coarser and should be considered if projectiles are to fired in bores larger than 4 inch  However, the 1FA is usually to coarse for bores in the 2 inch to 3 inch range where light charges are used. "

[Double D]

excerpt from: THE MORE COMPLETE CANNONEER compiled Agreeably to the Regulations of the War Department as published in "Artillery Drill" by George Patten, 1861 and Containing Other Observations on Antique Cannon By M.C. Switlik with selected excerpts from other artillery manuals


Determining safe powder charges

"Whenever a person begins cannon shooting , it is prudent to start with an absurdly light powder charge"

"One commonly accepted rule , for field guns over two inches bore diameter, is to limit powder charges in the ratio of two ounces of powder per inch of bore diameter"


'For light weight swivel guns, howitzers, or scale model guns of less that two inch bore diameter, much less powder must be used."

For mortars the diameter of the powder chamber is consider bore diameter for determining powder charges.

Appendix I of the book covers shooting small guns under 2".  The book has a graph showing "prudent powder charges for ball loads" in the small gun. These charges are substantially under the 2 ounce per inch rule.  

For example.  My 1 inch gun using the 2 ounce per inch rule would use 2 ounces.  The graph chart shows a prudent load for a 1 inch would be 180 grains with a ball load.  I have been using 2 ounces with cylindercal projectile about 2 inches long.   I have been overloading 5 1/3 times with a double shotted load.  It has an extremely violent recoil. This will change!  

I guess I built this gun right. It's lathe turned and bored from solid 4140.  It's on a wood navel gun truck.  The trunion recess in the cheeks are round recesses in the wood and held on with steel capsquares and wedges.  I built the gun back in 1985 and have fired a hundred or so round through it  with 2 ounces of Fg.  After reading the passage in the book quoted above I went and inspected my gun.  Every thing is tight and nothing is loose.  There is no sigh of battering anywhere.

[Calamity Jane]

The graph chart shows a prudent load for a 1 inch would be 180 grains with a ball load

Hummmmm.

Shot a few 1 Ounce (437 grains) behind a 1" ball figgerin that waz me "maximum load". Mostly been shootin 1/2 ounce (218 grains) as "comfortable" loads with lossa ZIP.

Sounds like we'z ALL been shootin "HOT" loads....

[Double D]

Excerpt from THE MORE COMPLETE CANNONEER compiled Agreeably to the Regulations of the War Department as published in "Artillery Drill" by George Patten, 1861 and Containing Other Observations on Antique Cannon By M.C. Switlik with selected excerpts from other artillery manuals


Vents

Here's what a vent liner looks like.  Make to size. make to fit. Fuse hole down the center.



Seems like a prudent thing to make.  Make from copper or stainless steel  Don't have it  protrude into the chamber as it mught snag the powder bag.  The round top is recessed into the barrel deep enough so the square top is recessed also.  The file the top flush.

If you have a misfire you can remove the plug and have better access for flushing.  You could also make a plug to fit your hose to get the water or CO2 in the chamber.

Make sure you use anti sieze compund on the threads.

[Double D]

Excerpt from: THE MORE COMPLETE CANNONEER compiled Agreeably to the Regulations of the War Department as published in "Artillery Drill" by George Patten, 1861 and Containing Other Observations on Antique Cannon By M.C. Switlik with selected excerpts from other artillery manuals

Windage
 
“In preparing balls for smoothbore guns it is well to recall the standard which were once required for the difference between true bore diameter and the maximum ball diameter allowed for that caliber. The term windage is applied to this difference, and one common rule stated that windage should be one-fortieth the diameter of the bore.  By this same rule, a 10 inch smooth bore would fire a ball ¼ inch smaller than the bore, and a two inch bore smooth bore would fire a ball .050 smaller than the bore.”

[Double D]

Excerpt from: THE MORE COMPLETE CANNONEER compiled Agreeably to the Regulations of the War Department as published in "Artillery Drill" by George Patten, 1861 and Containing Other Observations on Antique Cannon By M.C. Switlik with selected excerpts from other artillery manuals

FUSE

“The most popular alternative to the use of friction primers is the use of “quills” …Today the use of paper soda straws is recommended for this type of primer. (Plastic soda straws will not work.) The paper straw is folded shut one end, and filled with FFFFG blackpowder and closed at the other end with a light Mixture of Glue and powder. In use the ignition end is inserted in the vent and the excess length is broke off, with a small amount of powder allowed to pile over the vent for instant ignition from the linstock.”

Handle with extreme care and keep separate from any other ammo, in its own container, sealed.


LINSTOCK

“A linstock can be made from a heavy wood dowel, using ½” cotton rope wicking, soaked in a saturated of lead acetate and dried.  To extinguish a linstock when firing is done, cut off and safely discard the last two inches of the wicking, at the burning end.”


Unwaxed paper straws can be found at craft stores or you can order them from:

J.L. Hammett Co.
One Paliotti Pkwy.
Lyons, Ny. 14489-9799
Or you can order by phone using their toll free
number: 1-800-333-4600. You are looking for item
number 39470 (Starcraft straws 1800 count.)

They come in boxes of 1800 for $21.00 plus s&h. That price is a year or two old so it may have changed.

[Double D]

Excerpt from: THE MORE COMPLETE CANNONEER compiled Agreeably to the Regulations of the War Department as published in "Artillery Drill" by George Patten, 1861 and Containing Other Observations on Antique Cannon By M.C. Switlik with selected excerpts from other artillery manuals

Tubular gauge

"It cannot be overemphasized that cannon projectiles must be carefully made.  The first accessory that any cannon shooter must have is a tubular gauge  at least three calibers long, preferably bored a few thousandths smaller than the bore diameter of the cannon. Round balls must be able to roll freely through this tube, when it is placed on an incline of 5 degrees. Each and every Ball must be gauged, and discarded immediately if it fails.  Conical projectiles must also slip effortlessly through their respective gauge."

[Blaster]

Hey Double D....  Would you mind telling us exactly where you purchased your MORE Complete Cannoneer book??  Not trying to nosey, just very very interested.  As usual, many thanks for all of your tireless efforts to keep us informed.  Blaster

[Double D]

South Bend Replica's has the book...I should have posted this isn the first post!!  You aren't being nosey for asking, I was impolite for not posting.

Make sure you get The MORE Complete... version and not just The Complete version. The MORE Complete...version is the latest edition.

  http://www.specialtymile.com/southbendreplicas/page1c.htm

[Blaster]

Now I don't want to appear to be "beating a dead horse" but I contacted the South Bend Replica Co, in South Bend, Indiana today and note that although in their most recently published catalog, they still list "The Complete Cannoneer" as the book available, Paul Barnett told me that they NOW stock ONLY the "The MORE Complete Cannoneer".  So, we can relax and be assured that when we order the book, we'll only get the most recently printed edition of this book.  Now, I'll be quiet and we'll let nature take it course.
Blaster (Bob in CO)

[Double D]

It's been a while since I posted this.  We have a bunch of new faces since the original post, so I though I would add a reply and bring it to the top of the list.

George, if you don't already you should require this text as part of your Cannon making course.

[GGaskill]

I can't "require" anyone to buy any publications, but you're right, I should put it on my recommended publications list.

[Terry C.]

I looked over the SBR website and couldn't find an "order" page.

Did I overlook something, or do I have to call them on the phone to order the book?

[Cpt Ed]

Terry C.

You can order the book directly from Matt. Switlik at his web site.

http://www.museumandcollector.com/book.html

[Double D]

It's 6:20 AM here in RSA-12:20 AM Eastern in the U.S.   Got up early this morning.  I was going through and checking all the links to our post in the sticky and decided to bring this one back to the top.  Some good information quoted from THE MORE COMPLETE CANNONEER  By M.C. Switlik with selected excerpts from other artillery manuals.

We mention this book off and on.  I think one of the first things you should do if you are interested in shooting cannons or are new to cannons is get and read this book.   If you are an old timer and don't have this book, you should make it priority purchase.

I think by reading the excerpts above you will get an idea of some of the valuable information found  in the book.

The book can be ordered from these two suppliers by clicking on these hotlinks:

• The Complete Cannoneer from Matt Switlik[/i][/url]

• South Bend Replica

[Michael Az]

Guess I had better get the book. Thanks Double D.
Michael

[rusty barrels]

I got the book on advice from DD, I can't believe he didn't have it yet. But he's right you should have this book even if you are just thinking about cannons or mortars. Some one mentioned some time ago in using silk as a powder bag in the cannon, in the book it was advised against it as it also can generate static in loading the cannon, I didn't think silk could do that being a natural material. I got mine from South Bend also.